Pepper mill equipment

[mike wagoner]

I have decided to turn a pepper mill for my daughter, now the question is what equipment do I need? I know that there are quite a few kits to choose from. Lets just say that I have the basics for turning pens. What would be the best wood for them? Thanks.
Mike

[Tom Hintz]

The main things you need to do a peppermill are drills for boring the center holes (there are steps in the hole for the mechanism) and a steady rest to support the body while drilling. A chuck for holding the drill in the tailstock is also needed. Normal turning tools do well for the actual turning and you can use just about any wood you want. I love cherry and Indian Rosewood but have turned out very nice looking peppermills with all thpes of wood.
I have a story on the basics of turning a peppermill at the link below that shows the process (and the equipment) in a bit more detail if that would help.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/turning/trnppml.html

[mike wagoner]

I have read and understand your tutorial and it was a great help. I just have a Carba-tec vs lathe but with no chucks, just the basic dead and live centers. So I guess I am asking what chuck should get? I may go into turning other big things, I can't seem to stop.
Mike

[Bruce McElhaney]

I agree with Tom, except I don't think you necessarly need to spend money on a steady-rest as long as you have a good chuck and use a slow drilling speed. I have a steady-rest but never feel the need to use it for drilling out peppermills. You will need a Morse taper drill chuck and the proper size Forstner type bits. I've gone through a lot of Forstner bits and believe the the best are the Bormax brand, made in Germany. They are not cheap but cut great and leave very smooth holes. IMO,the best Stainless Steel, traditional, peppermill mechanisms are from Chef Specialties. They come in a variety of shaft lengths, but the longer shafts can easily be cut down to fit a shorter mill. They are readily available at a variety of woodworking/turning sources and usually sold as premium or deluxe mechanisms. There are many ways to skin a cat. You can also drill pepermill on the drill press, but found it a bit tricky. I use Oneway's Stronghold and Talon chucks. The Talon is perfect for smaller and med. size projects, like Peppermills.

[Roger Wilson]

Ted Sokolowski has a nice DVD on making peppermills. You can buy it from his website or rent it from www.smartflix.com (http://www.smartflix.com).

http://www.socantel.net/~sokol/NewFiles/dvds.htm

[mike wagoner]

Thanks Tom and Bruce. I was just looking at PSIs chucks and they list so many options that it is confusing to decide which set to order. Any help in that direction.
Mike

[Kyle Iwamoto]

If you have a drill press, you can try my method. Rough the blank to round, part off the top. Square off the bottom. Drill the 1-5/8" bottom mechanism hole. Drill the 1-1/4" through hole. (hole sizes may vary with your mechanism) Make 2 bushings with shoulders to fit the 1-5/8 and 1-1/4' ends and turn between centers. No need for a steady. The friction from the 2 bushings is enough to drive the mill. This also makes sure that the mill is centered on the hole and the top almost has to be centered. I only have had 1 mill off center.

I guess you can drill the holes on the lathe if you have a long bed. I only have a mini, so I have to drill on a drill press.

[Tom Hintz]

Thanks Tom and Bruce. I was just looking at PSIs chucks and they list so many options that it is confusing to decide which set to order. Any help in that direction.
Mike

I use the Talon from ONeway. (link to review below)

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/onwytlonrvu.html

If you make short peppermills, you might get away with drilling with just the chuck. I've never gotten it to work once you get into 12" or longer bodies. There is a lot of torque on that end and they want to start waving around pretty easy. You can still drill through them sometimes but the hole "wanders" a bunch and can force you to make it shorter or really limit the cuts that can be made without breaking through the side.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I drill the mills on my lathe. I watched Ted at Richmond and have his DVD. I do the same thing he does and drill half way thru then turn it around and drill the rest of the way from the other end. It comes out really well.

[mike wagoner]

Thats all I have is a short bed, so I think I will get a 4x4 Douglas fir and try what you said.
Mike

[Bruce McElhaney]

I believe the ease and accuracy of drilling peppermills on the lathe is directly related to the type of drill bit used, as well as the quality of chuck. I use a Talon chuck plus a Oneway revolving live center with a full point cone for shaping the peppermill. Paddle type drill bits do wander and are probably better suited other work as they often leave a rough, chewed up surface. High-quality (and sharp) Forstner bits are the way to go, IMHO.

I use Forstner type bits made in Germany and Austria, and generally avoid the Chinese made versions. I have used various Forstner bits (with and without extensions) on hundreds of Peppermills up to 18" in length with good results. I also drill from both ends so if there ever IS any wandering or unevenness, it meets in the middle of the stock. Naturally one needs to go slow and back out frequently to clear shavings and avoid burning.

As far as chucks go, Personally I'd stay with well known quality lathe brands and avoid store branded versions. You can't go wrong with Oneway, Axeminster or Vicmarc chucks.