Lenox Tri-Master

[paul dyar]

Are they worth the price, and where is the best place to buy.
Thanks paul

[Bruce Page]

Worth it to me, awesome blade. I bought mine from my MiniMax salesman but I bet google will bring up some suppliers.

[Jamie Buxton]

You might also consider the Lennox Woodmaster CT. It is also carbide, and works very well. It is less expensive than the Trimaster.

[Mikail Khan]

I'm very happy with mine.

Got it from carbide.com

MK

[Chris Padilla]

You might also consider the Lennox Woodmaster CT. It is also carbide, and works very well. It is less expensive than the Trimaster.

Well, I wasn't at all happy with mine, Jamie. The Trimaster cut much, much cleaner than the Woodmaster CT.

It isn't all that surprising when you look at the blade specs:

Trimaster: 1", 2-3 tpi variable pitch, 0.063" kerf
WM CT: 1", 1.8 tpi, 0.051" kerf

I'm thinking to sell my WM CT...I have 14' of it, too!

The Trimaster is pricey but it cuts very, very nicely!

I've also done well with the Lenox Diemaster2: 1/2", bimetal, 6 tpi, hook style.

I mainly resaw veneers on my bandsaw and the Trimaster and Diemaster2 have served me well. I won't use the WM CT for slicing veneers although it might be good for rough ripping of green stuff now that I think about it.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Oh yea, well worth the $, IMHO. The cheapest place that I found was suprisingly my local welding supply shop. It's a US Welding store, and they are Lenox dealers. Beat the online guys by around $50 on my 232" blade.

[John Bush]

I had the Trimaster for my 18" BS and now use the Woodmaster for my 21"er. Both cut well. The Tri may be a bit smoother but not significantly for my needs. Both would be good choices. Save a few $$$ with the WM. I got them from Cyberwoodworking. Good service and competitive $$$. Good luck, JCB.

[Ben Abate]

I have a couple of trimasters and they are wonderful.....But I will tell you I was over at Kelly Mayler (sp) shop one day and he had two bandsaws set up..one was a Mini Max with a Laguna blade and one was a Laguna bandsaw with a Trimaster on it....Why not have the Laguna blade on the Laguna saw???? don't know..... I don't know if it were the saw or the blade that made the difference but I was resawing a piece of walnut and the Mini Max with the Laguna blade did such a nice job that I was very impressed.... I have a 24" Laguna saw with a Trimaster and I love it.... I just resawed last evening a few 2"x15"x10' boards of Ash and it never thought about binding or burning..and the saw marks are very minimal

[Doug Shepard]

... and it never thought about binding or burning..and the saw marks are very minimal

Same here. The other thing I've never had to to deal with since getting a MM16 with TriMaster on it is blade lead. Dont know how much of that is due to the saw or the blade but I haven't messed with that since my old Jet 14" BS.

[Bruce Page]

Same here. The other thing I've never had to to deal with since getting a MM16 with TriMaster on it is blade lead. Dont know how much of that is due to the saw or the blade but I haven't messed with that since my old Jet 14" BS.

Same here, I haven't messed with blade lead since having my old Delta 14".

[Chris Padilla]

It seems to me that drift is a result of wheels not perfecly lined up...maybe that happens more with the smaller bandsaws??

I've never worried about nor had an issue with drift on my MM20....

[Jamie Buxton]

It seems to me that drift is a result of wheels not perfecly lined up...maybe that happens more with the smaller bandsaws??

I've never worried about nor had an issue with drift on my MM20....

Wheel misalignment may be a cause of drift, but I think there's other sources. For instance, back when I still used steel blades on a 14" saw, the drift angle would change as the blade aged. Maybe the teeth sticking out to one side dulled faster than the ones sticking out to the other? Dunno. But, like you, I've happily found drift angle is a non-issue with carbide blades on a LT16HD.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Wheel misalignment may be a cause of drift, but I think there's other sources. For instance, back when I still used steel blades on a 14" saw, the drift angle would change as the blade aged. Maybe the teeth sticking out to one side dulled faster than the ones sticking out to the other? Dunno. But, like you, I've happily found drift angle is a non-issue with carbide blades on a LT16HD.

No drift on an old Oliver either.

I'd agree with the aging of a conventional blade changing the drift. One time I used a conventional blade to lightly scratch a surface to get the texture for a toy barns shingles. The wear was only on one side, and I did probably 100 lf of cut. Just that changed the tracking on the saw. It was with my 14" Delta and a Starrett bimetal blade.