Building Drawers With Slides

[Jim Eller]

Here's a dah question. Obviously I have build a lot of project with drawers.

When designing a project that includes drawers with slides, what is the thinking/measuring process to make sure there is room for the slides and proper clearances? Build the case first and then the drawers or can it be reversed?

For example, if you have a drawer opening of 6"h x 18"w x 20"d, where do you start to get the proper fit?

Thanks,
Jim

[Stan Urbas]

Are you planning on using slides that mount under the drawer or on the sides? I use only side-mounted, ball-bearing slides. Every one I've seen has a total clearance of 1/2" (each), so if your opening is 18", then the drawer should be 17" wide. However, they ride better if the drawer is SLIGHTLY under-sized; never over-sized.

Now the other thing is that you have to hang those slides on something. I always make my shell with the same inside width as the drawer opening and mount the slides on the shell.

As for the other dimensions: drawer slides come in 1-inch increments, so just choose them to match your depth. For vertical, I allow at least 1/4" both under and over the drawer, so a 6" opening would have a maximum 5-1/2" drawer height. But remember that the drawer can be less than that, too.

Someone else can tell you about mounting slides under the drawer.

[Lee Schierer]

I usually build the case first and then size the drawer boxes to the actual dimension of the drawer openings. It can be done the other way around as well. As long as you accurately size the opening to the drawer or the drawer to the opening either method should work.

[glenn bradley]

Having built many things with drawers, you know that most slides require 1" of total space. As to the chicken or the egg question; I build the drawers last so I can customize (read, fix my boo-boos) the fit.

[Jim Eller]

Stan,

I'm talking about slides on the sides at this time. What would be the deciding factor where to place them?

I guess what I'm looking for is Drawer/Slides 101, Drawers/Slides For Dummies, Drawer/Slides Primer, etc.

Thanks,
Jim

[Scott Schwake]

Hey Jim,

I'm in the same boat as you. I am currently tackling my first project with drawer slides.

I decided to use the undermount kind. I layed out my cabinet design first using Sketchup, then started researching the slides. I ended up tweaking the depth of my cabinet slightly to accommodate the drawer slide I wanted to use.

I've heard others say to purchase the slides before building the drawers so you make the drawers the correct dimensions. Not sure how much of this is relevant to side mounted slides.

[Jim Eller]

Thanks Scott. Misery loves company.

I guess what I need is a tutorial. I've gotten some good tips. I'm old and need a step by step with pictures:)

Jim

[Jeff Wright]

1] Get and read and re-read (and then re-read) the directions that come with the drawer slides (if missing in package, the better manufacturers post their directions online).

2] If necessary, and you are unsure of the directions, ask a woodworking friend in your area for help.

3] Build a quick sample drawer first to prove to yourself that you understand how they work.

I prefer inset drawers using the Blumotion undermount slides.

[Scott Schwake]

Hey Jim,

Blum has some pretty good literature with schematics on their website, here's a link for side mounted slides: http://www.blum.com/pdf/BUS/2016_std_b/2016_std_b.pdf

and undermount: http://www.blum.com/pdf/BUS/4026_tdm_b/4026_tdm_b.pdf

Scott

[Stan Urbas]

Stan,

I'm talking about slides on the sides at this time. What would be the deciding factor where to place them?

I guess what I'm looking for is Drawer/Slides 101, Drawers/Slides For Dummies, Drawer/Slides Primer, etc.

Thanks,
Jim

Exact placement isn't all that critical as long as your drawer box is solid. However, for ease of construction I try to be consistent. For me, the simplest thing is to put the slides a standard distance from the bottom of the drawers, since they can have different heights, and drawers do not always go to the top of the openings.

So, for example, suppose we decide that the slide center is 1-1/2" from the bottom of the drawer. If you want a 1/4" clearance, then the other half of the slide should be 1-3/4" from the bottom of the opening. Now it's just a matter of laying out the front of your drawer shell with all the cross-pieces (face frame rails) and openings. You can do this either with a computer or pencil and paper. Both actually work! Once you have your openings drawn, measure up 1-3/4" from the bottom of each and make a mark. Then measure from each mark to the floor and you have the locations on the shell sides.

I usually cut the shell sides, then mark the locations of the slides. I take the slides apart and mount the outside parts onto the shell before I assemble the shell. The only thing to keep in mind is the face from on the front of the shell. If the drawer is to rest even with the front of the face frame you either have to mount the shell side of the slide forward the thickness of the face frame or the drawer side back that thickness.

Hope that helps.

[Rick Fisher]

Side mount drawer slides are a great reason for drawer sides made of solid lumber. You can take 1/32" off each side without any detriment.

Make sure the box is dead square and just do your best.

[Rob Price]

One trick I've learned- I build my box first, then drawers, and then I attache whatever face I'm using last. When you install your hardware, leave the face off. Get all your drawers installed, and then install the faces.

Whatever hole you drill in the drawer to accomodate the pull, make it a bit oversized. Using double stick tape, I then line up the face how I want it (ie. in line with the rest of the faces, or inset appropriatly in the face frame) and attach it to the box. Less fiddling with the mounting hardware. Trying to line up a row of drawers by adjusting the slides can be a pain. Does that make sense?

ie. for my recent project that had 4 overlay drawers, I installed the first, and then used a spacer stick to line up the next one, vertically and horizontally, and then the spacer stick for the next, etc.

[Thomas Pender]

I always build the carcass first and then the drawers. There is very little tolerance with side mounted ball bearing slides and I measure 3 or 4 times to make sure they fit. (A good argument for undermount slides.) Then I put the front on it. I also read good comments about carefully reading instructions, making sure the drawer is dead square, and using solid lumber for the sides. Myself, I use 1/2" poplar NFP mills and sells just for the purpose of drawer slides - planes beautifully and comes in nice widths. I have also successfully used QS ash, pine, you name it, but not plain sawn maple. If you use poplar you can measure 1/64 too large and plane it off it does not fit - remember - hard to add, easy to take away;). Also, I freely confess I use the jig that Rockler and others sell for drilling the mounting holes for the Blum slides. Could not survive without it.

[Paul Johnstone]

Stan,

I'm talking about slides on the sides at this time. What would be the deciding factor where to place them?

I guess what I'm looking for is Drawer/Slides 101, Drawers/Slides For Dummies, Drawer/Slides Primer, etc.

Thanks,
Jim

Jim,
Most of my drawer projects involve 3/4" plyood "boxes" with a solid wood face frame. Because I make the rails/styles on my face frames 2" thick wide, I need to fasten scrap pieces of plyood inside the carcass to have a place to mount the drawer slides (I use side mount, ball bearing slides).

I usually make the plywood scraps 2 or 3" wide, to give myself plenty of room to adjust the slide for level. I just use a staple gun and glue to fasten the plywood scraps to the carcass sides (obviously make sure you use a staple length that won't go through the good side :) )

If that doesn't answer your question, let me know.
There's probably a more elegant way to solve the problem, maybe someone else can chime in.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

One trick I have picked up for side mount slide placement is:

Cutting a dado for the brawer bottom to fit in either needs to be a stopped dado, or the dado might show at the from bottom corners of the drawers when they are completed. Stopped dados take more time, so through dados can be used, then covered by the placement of the drawer slides. Usually this means just putting the slides at the bottom of the drawer which adds another benefit. The placement of the slides to the drawer couldn't be easier, just set the drawer on the bench, position the slide setting on the bench too, and attach. Skip the spacers and jigs that way, at least for the attachment to the drawers.

[Jim Eller]

This is helpful.

Thanks to all who replied and those that thought of it.

Jim

[David DeCristoforo]

One thing to keep in mind is that virtually every side mounted drawer slide on the market has at least 1/16" of "allowance" (for variation in the net width of the drawers). For that reason, it is better to build your drawers slightly undersize. For example, if you have a 12" wide opening, you would deduct 1 1/16" from the opening to get your finished drawer width of 10 15/16" (assuming the "typical" 1/2" per side allowance for the slides). If you "shoot" for an "exact fit" by deducting one inch exactly, you have no "wiggle room" at all. The worst thing is to make the drawers too wide. you don't have any "allowance" for drawers that are too tight. So if, in the example, your drawers were 11 1/16", you would have a problem. It's true that if you made the drawers out of solid wood, you could plane down the sides. But this is a lot of work and very awkward at best when you are dealing with a completed drawer box.

For under-mounted drawer hardware it is best to follow the manufacturer's specs to the letter. If you have never used these glides, I would recommend building a sample box and drawer to get a feeling for how they work. Once you have done so, you will have a much better understanding of how these drawers should be built.

[Rick Fisher]

I concur with the 1/16 tolerance.. I have used masking tape behind full extention slides in the past.. On the carcass portion.. to narrow the gap a bit..

Nothing makes you feel like a craftsman like installing blue masking tape as a permanent item on your cabinet.. :rolleyes:

[Jim Andrew]

I think the easiest guides to install are the Blum guides with rollers. You just screw the guide to the bottom of the drawer side, and screw the other guide to the bottom corner of the cabinet. Then for the back, just clamp the drawer front to the opening and mark the back for proper alignment and screw in place. One thing about these guides, if your drawer is a little too tight, you can run it through the table saw, and just cut off a tiny bit just the height of the guide., so the guide sits into the saw cut slightly. Hardly noticeable, and saves your drawer.

[John Morrison60]

Jim
I just finished a self-taught effort to learn how to make drawers.
I made several types, with different mountings and joinery.
I have settled on using the Blum Tandem undermount glides for most drawers.
I found them to be high quality, and easy to 'get a deal' on.

Some of the lessons I learned (some the hard way)
1. Make the cabinets first. Take care to get square, even openings
2. Read instructions
3. Never make them oversize. (solid wood sides can be shaved on box drawers, though)
4. Make the sides 5/8 inch or less thick. Most undermount glides will not handle 3/4 sides.
5. make a prototype of your drawers. (just call your first drawer a prototype) but make it prior to cutting the wood for the bulk of your drawers.
6. Lee valley makes a great slotting bit for cutting the bottom slot after you have assembled the drawer.
I found this helpful on dovetail drawers that for, whatever reason were slightly offset top to bottom.
7. sand the pieces prior to assembly. (much easier)
8. Think though how you are going to use the drawers, then you might add some features that cannot be added later, like a dado for a divider.

It is very satisfying to finish a drawer-filled cabinet and feel your handbuilt creations smoothly slide in and out.

Good Luck
John

[David DeCristoforo]

"...if your drawer is a little too tight, you can run it through the table saw..."

This is exactly why I suggested subtracting an extra 1/16" from the drawer box width. The Blum glides have a "captured" side and a "loose" side. The "captured" side keeps the drawer in alignment. The "loose" side will accommodate slight variations in drawer and cabinet width, squareness, etc. So there is no need to be cutting your drawer boxes down or planing the sides after they are assembled.

[Scott Schwake]

4. Make the sides 5/8 inch or less thick. Most undermount glides will not handle 3/4 sides.


Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Blum does make Tandems for 3/4" sides. At least I hope they do.

[David DeCristoforo]

"Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Blum does make Tandems for 3/4" sides. At least I hope they do."

They do make Tandems for 3/4" drawer sides. But JM is correct in stating that "most" undermounts will not work with 3/4" thick drawer sides. Again I would caution: If you plan to use undermount glides, do not make the drawers without the spec sheet in front of you!