Router question

[Jerry Murray]

Please forgive the newbie aspect to my questions. I have never owned or used a router before. However I would like to use one to accomplish a specific task.

I am in the process of making/carving some pistol grips. Would a router be effective for cutting out the outline of the grip? If so, how should I go about this and what type of router and bits would you recommend? If I can use this for my grips, then I have many other projects I could use this for.

Again my apologies for the newbie questions, but after seeing some of the work you all do on this site I am overwhelmed by it all.

[Jerry Murray]

Can anyone give a recommendation for a router? This is my first one.

[Jay Stellers]

I've got a porter cable router that I got from Lowes. It came with the plunge and fixed bases. Don't remember the model number off hand, but I'd reccommend that get a router than will hold 1/2" shank bits. 1/4" is too small for some tasks and you get more vibration/chatter.

for cutting out the pistol handles, you're looking at forming some small pieces so it would be hard to cut those with just the router. I think you might want to look into a router table as well. It would be a cinch to make your pistol handles that way. Just use double stick tape to secure your template to the wood stock and then have a pattern bit in the router table.

[David DeCristoforo]

"Would a router be effective for cutting out the outline of the grip?"

I'm gonna go with "No". The router, fitted with a flush trim bit, mounted in a table might be OK for trimming the blanks to finished size using a template. But you will still need to rough cut them first. You will want a small band saw, a scroll saw or even a hand coping saw to cut to within a sixteenth of an inch or so of final size.

[Paul Steiner]

A router is not the tool for pistol grips. I typical first task I use to teach students the router is putting a chamfer or roundover on a cutting board or any flat board.
I recommend a PC 690 the regular base is good enough for most jobs. The plunge base is also nice to have.

[Jim Kountz]

Yeah Im going to have to agree with David, while this could be done on a router only its not the best way to go IMO. However they do excel at flush trimming and making all parts identical from a pattern.
Unless you want to sink alot of cash in a nice pin router setup but those can get costly.

[Jerry Murray]

Thanks for your replies. I am getting the picture of how I need to proceed with this. I am going to buy a router and have an idea how to make a router table with a section of 2" butcher block table that I have sitting around.

Any thoughts on the Milwaukie brand of routers? I see on Amazon that they have a router with a separate plunge base that got good reviews.

[Matthew Hills]

You don't typically want a router table to be too thick, as your bit needs to pass through the table before it can cut anything. Even 3/4" plywood is a bit thick. The major problem with router tables is if the table sags too much from the weight of the router.

The Wood Whisperer has a recent video showing using a router table with a template for shaping components for a small table:
6 Days to Aurora - Day 2 (http://thewoodwhisperer.com/6-days-to-aurora-day-2/)

Using templates like this is what you'll want to do if you are making many grips. There are similar techniques for this on a bandsaw. Duginske's books have some discussion on these techniques (check local library).

If you're doing just one or two, you might consider coping saw to rough in the shape and a rasp to shape the final grip.

Matt

[Greg Hines, MD]

For your pistol grips, I would suggest a band saw or coping saw, and then get yourself a set of pattern makers rasps and files to finish them. You will also need a good vise for holding your parts.

Doc

[Craig Moulton]

Are you talking about shaping the grips in addition to just the outline?

I have a 1/4" collet for my rotozip saw that will take rotary rasps. That will remove the material pretty quickly and gives decent two-hand control.

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Grade-Carbide-Steel-Rotary-Rasp/dp/B00172VTRI/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1239756376&sr=8-1

You can get a HSS (high speed steel) set for pretty cheap.

[Jerry Murray]

Are you talking about shaping the grips in addition to just the outline?

I have a 1/4" collet for my rotozip saw that will take rotary rasps. That will remove the material pretty quickly and gives decent two-hand control.

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Grade-Carbide-Steel-Rotary-Rasp/dp/B00172VTRI/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1239756376&sr=8-1

You can get a HSS (high speed steel) set for pretty cheap.

Harbor Freight has these too, and I'll pick up some for the "target" style which will have a thumb rest.

I was looking at the router to cut out the outline of the grip and I'd finish with rasps and the belt sander.

[Larry Edgerton]

My dad is a carver/gunsmith. He uses a bandsaw to cut the blanks. Pistol grips are too small a piece for a router anyway, and it only takes minutes to cut then out on the bandsaw. Cut both halves at the same time, dad uses hot melt to temporarily hold them together. Cut the blank in half while it is still square, much easier.

[Tom Walz]

Probably better ways to go than a router for pistol grips.

However I do admire a man who wants a router and is going to buy a router whether he has a use for it or not.

Personally, one of my greatest pleasures is deciding to fix or build something and having all the tools I need right there.

Of course, another of my greatest pleasures is deciding to fix or build something and being able to go buy new tools.

tom

[Jeff Rowley]

Any thoughts on the Milwaukie brand of routers? I see on Amazon that they have a router with a separate plunge base that got good reviews.

I have two Milwaukee and and two Porter Cable routers. I prefer the Milwaukee. They're quieter, easier to change height on, and I like their collets better. Personal opinion, of course, but you can't go wrong with the Milwaukees.

[Jerry Murray]

I just bought this Bosch unit

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BGKIJ6

along with this bit set

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FJRN8S

and I'm ordering another bit from Lee Valley that should give the ability to do exactly what I want to do with these pistol grips.

On a side note, I am working by hand a "practice set" using marble wood. This stuff is incredibly hard, so I could'nt see myself doing this by hand on a regular basis.

[Prashun Patel]

If you're not serious about investing $300-$1000 in a bandsaw, then you might consider getting a jigsaw. It's more versatile and can do the job for you. You should also get a few files and rasps to true things up.

How thick is yr piece? I would't use a jigsaw on thicker things.

If the piece is very thick, the best way to do this repeatably without a bandsaw is to cut a 1/4" template with a jig or coping saw, sand it to perfection, then use it as a pattern in a router table with a flush trim as previously suggested.

[Jerry Murray]

If you're not serious about investing $300-$1000 in a bandsaw, then you might consider getting a jigsaw. It's more versatile and can do the job for you. You should also get a few files and rasps to true things up.

How thick is yr piece? I would't use a jigsaw on thicker things.

If the piece is very thick, the best way to do this repeatably without a bandsaw is to cut a 1/4" template with a jig or coping saw, sand it to perfection, then use it as a pattern in a router table with a flush trim as previously suggested.

Yeah I can see some sort of saw in the very near future. The only problem is space. I will buy some blocks of wood that I need to 'slice." Maybe in the interim I can find someone that has a band saw that I can use. I don't think a table saw will do the job I need...I'm sure I could make a couple of passes, but a band saw would be the best. I'm going to Harbor Freight this evening and wil see what they have.

[Prashun Patel]

Yeah I can see some sort of saw in the very near future. The only problem is space. I will buy some blocks of wood that I need to 'slice." Maybe in the interim I can find someone that has a band saw that I can use. I don't think a table saw will do the job I need...I'm sure I could make a couple of passes, but a band saw would be the best. I'm going to Harbor Freight this evening and wil see what they have.


?? I said jigsaw - not tablesaw... I wouldn't invest in a bandsaw lightly. Do yr research; Does HF even sell bandsaws? Even a top of line jigsaw will run you south of $200.

[Jerry Murray]

?? I said jigsaw - not tablesaw... I wouldn't invest in a bandsaw lightly. Do yr research; Does HF even sell bandsaws? Even a top of line jigsaw will run you south of $200.


I went over last night and I won't buy that equiptment from them. I am looking at the Rikon http://www.rikontools.com/productpage_10-300.htm

I looked at the Sears model and the reviews just steered me away.

I think this will do what I need it to.

[Prashun Patel]

Jerry, with all due respect - and the understanding that I'm no expert, but a hopeless tool accumulator:

Don't waste yr money on a 10" bandsaw. Get a 14" at LEAST - IF you're even gonna invest in a bandsaw.

I think you should evaluate yr long term plans before jumping in like that....

[Jerry Murray]

Jerry, with all due respect - and the understanding that I'm no expert, but a hopeless tool accumulator:

Don't waste yr money on a 10" bandsaw. Get a 14" at LEAST - IF you're even gonna invest in a bandsaw.

I think you should evaluate yr long term plans before jumping in like that....

Why would you think that a 10" would be insufficient? I also do not have any floor space for a free standing saw. The 10 will go on the end of my router table, and when I'm not using will be moved away.

[Craig Moulton]

+1 for buy a decent jig saw. Clamp your work, and for about $50 you can cut most of the curves etc. that you'll need for grips.

A scroll saw may even work well for what you're looking for, and again, they're much cheaper than a large band saw.

[Jerry Murray]

I picked up some wood to play with the other day...marblewood.

Man o' man this stuff is tough! I had no problem in crosscutting a piece, however I wanted to rip the 3/4" section down to 3/8". I hacked at that piece of wood for almost 3 hours and am only half way through! I used two saws, a hack saw, Japanese edge saw and finally a coping saw.

I don't think a scroll saw will work, or even a jig saw. i have a jig saw and wouldn't even think of using it on this wood.

[John VanDivier]

and try to use demo tools to discover what tools work the best for you. Many years ago (about 45) I carved several sets of revolver grips out of some Brazilian rosewood. All were done by hand with a small X-acto carving set and some rasps and files. Many, many hours labor of love with nothing better to do at the time in a small apartment.
O.K., I have planned to make several pistol grips in the near future and they are on my list, but loml's list seems to always come first. I have all the tools I need but personally I would never use a router to form the outside shape with a template on this small of a workpiece. I would, however, use the router to rout out the inletting that fits around the frame. Rout the inletting while the blanks are still square and mount them in a jig to hold 'em. Then rout by hand to your inletting shape and depth with a small diameter flat bottom bit. This would be similiar to the way sign makers rout designs in a sign panel.
I would spend the extra money on a 14" bandsaw to cut the outside shape. Grizzly makes a decent one for your purposes G0555, last price I saw was $395.00. Then a few properly shaped rasps will make short work of the final shape.
Good luck and have fun. John

[David DeCristoforo]

"I am looking at the Rikon...I looked at the Sears model and the reviews just steered me away."

Betcha a thousand hundred and one million dollars that Sears saw is made by Rikon....