Plywood blade

[Stan Johnsey]

I am interested in a blade to cut plywood. The saw is Powermatic 66. I have a Leecrat zero clearance insert with Forrest WWII 40T 1/8 kerf blade. It does a fair job some tearout even when cutting good face up. I need to cut with the good face down to get the 45 in need for th corner.

Money is a issue. It would be nice if the blade would also work in my 10" miter saw.

[Marlin Williams]

A great bang for the buck plywood blade is the 10" 80tooth Freud from lowes/Home depot. Its not freuds high end line but is thin kerf and has little to no tear out.

This is what lowes has...
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=33606-333-TK806

[Stan Johnsey]

I look at those as well as an 80T blade at Harbor Freight.

[M Toupin]

Stan,

I use a Freud LU80R010 10" x 80-Tooth HiATB Blade for sheet goods. It's by far the best blade I've used for ply, even cheap borg ply cross cuts chip out free with a ZCI.

Mike

[Stan Johnsey]

I'm gonna try one. Will it work on my miter saw?

[Phil Harding]

I can highly recommend both the Freud LU80R010 and the Forrest Duraline Hi-ATB. The Freud is a little cheaper but they both give beautifully smooth chip free cuts.

-- Phil

[scott spencer]

I can highly recommend both the Freud LU80R010 and the Forrest Duraline Hi-ATB. The Freud is a little cheaper but they both give beautifully smooth chip free cuts.

-- Phil

Stan - These are the types of blades that'll give you the best edge possible (all Hi-ATB grinds). I'll add the Infinity 010-080 or even the 010-060 as excellent choices also. Find a sale. They should all work well on your miter saw, SCMS, or RAS as well.

[Chris Kennedy]

Is this a long term investment? If you only need it for a few cuts, the Oldham dedicated plywood blades are inexpensive and fine until they go dull.

Cheers,

Chris

[Clint Schlosser]

Why not skip the blade purchase all together and either clamp a piece of scrap to the top and make the cut or use some blue tape. In theory this would reduce the probably already minimal tearout that occurs. It seems you have a decent blade that just needs some help on this specific cut. This would also reduce your setup time too.

Maybe the other creekers might have some thoughts on this.

[glenn bradley]

I'm gonna try one. Will it work on my miter saw?

I run the Lowe's 80T Freud on my CMS and it does a pretty fair job for a $50 blade. I have used it for ply on the TS as well with good results.

I made the mistake of "assuming" that the Avanti blades were 'cheaper made' and said as much in a post here. I was corrected; per Freud the Avanti blades are made on the same line as the industrial blades; same QA and all that. They do have a less beefy tip so, less carbide, less re-sharpenings are possible. If I've skewed the facts yet again we can always PM Charles McCracken (a member here) who can resolve all questions Freud-wise; a great resource.

IIRC I got mine with a $10 off $50 purchase do-jobber.

[Brian Smith3]

I have a Freud LU97R010 Double Sided Laminate/Melamine blade that I have been very impressed with. I built my kitchen using only pre-finished birch and MDO (that we painted) and there was absolutely no chipout anywhere to be found.
I've been very happy with that blade. I used it entirely on a PM66.

[Stan Johnsey]

The scrap would be hard to do but I'm gonna give the blue tape trick a try.

[John Thompson]

On the rare occsion I cut ply.. I use a 40 T blade.. score the cut line with a razor knife and then apply the blue tape. I do liitle ply and have no use really for a high tooth blade. For those that do mainly ply.. probably a wise choice.

Sarge..

[Lee Schierer]

I use the Freud LU73M or LU92M for cutting plywood. Both deliver chip free cuts even on thin veneer faced plywoods with a ZCI. I think Rockler sells one or both for $40 each. Both of these blades will als cross cut hard wood chip free with a ZCI.

[Kevin Groenke]

I've been happy with several of the Amana AGE blades that I've used including the HI-ATB MD10-803 ~$70