Putting a table saw table on a band saw???

[keith ouellette]

I could get a small 10" table saw with a self squaring fence real cheap.

I want it so I can replace the table on my 15" bandsaw with it. It would give me a larger band saw table with a self squaring fence. I was thinking I could cut out a slot for the band saw blade so it would be in the right spot for the blade to go through.

What are the draw backs of this idea or would it work at all? I have very little band saw experience.

[Rod Sheridan]

No reason it wouldn't work Keith, however I suggest that you drill a hole for the table alignment pin before you cut the slot for the blade.

That way the alignment pin will actually align the table halves.

Regards, Rod.

[Phil Thien]

I sorta doubt that the cast iron will be thick enough in the areas where you need it to be (where the trunnion holes for the bandsaw are located). I suppose you could use through holes and countersink them from the top of the new table, but...

Consider that you may be able to move over the fence from the table saw to the bandsaw. Consider also that with bandsaws, having a fence that is always perfectly square isn't optimum, as sometimes it is handy to adjust for drift).

Didn't you just pick up that bandsaw? If this is your first bandsaw, my advice is to use it for a few months before you entertain the idea of making any modifications to it.

[Todd Bin]

why don't you have the guy at quality grinding make you a table. That way it would be any size you want, already come witht the alignment pin hole, slot for blade and would probably already have all of the mounting holes and hardware etc.

And it would be top notch work.

[Frank Drew]

Keith,

I'd have the same concerns that Phil expressed; if you look under your current band saw table, you'll probably notice that where the trunnion bolts on the the underside of the table the casting is extra thick to accomodate the tapped bolt holes.

Which isn't to say that there aren't workarounds, but this doesn't strike me as an ideal solution. Have you considered adding a larger top to the existing top, maybe made out of some sheet good and designed to take whatever kind of fence you need?

[John Thompson]

I am also guessing mount problems and see no real reason for a TS type fence when many of us have been using simple shop made fences very accurately for years and don't yearn for square T types. When something is simple.. why find a way to complicate it?

Good luck with whatever you do.

Sarge..

[Ray Dockrey]

You could always get something like this or build one like this. It just bolts onto the top of the existing table.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10164

[george wilson]

If you use the saw table,BEFORE you slit it,drill a hole about 3/8" dia. in the side of the table to insert a pin to re align the table. Bandsaw tables usually have this. The table may very well stress relieve,and warp when you slit it. What about the throat plate?

P.S.,Rod already covered this.

[Bruce Page]

Simply put, it’d be more trouble than it is worth.
I made a new top for my old Delta 14" but I had the machine tool to do it.

[keith ouellette]

Thanks for the advice. I never would have thought about the alignment pin.

I was already to go for it but the saw got sold out from under me. I guess you should never let a $30 table saw sit to long.

[Joe Jensen]

You don't really need or want a self squaring fence on a bandsaw. Ideally you set the fence to the blade drift each time you change blades. even new sharp blades have some drift. Checking drift is simple. Take a scrap and draw a straight line on it parallel to the edges. Cut to the line freehand. Whatever angle the board is where you want to set the angle of the rip fence. This will make a huge difference in the quality of your work...joe

[keith ouellette]

You don't really need or want a self squaring fence on a bandsaw. Ideally you set the fence to the blade drift each time you change blades. even new sharp blades have some drift. Checking drift is simple. Take a scrap and draw a straight line on it parallel to the edges. Cut to the line freehand. Whatever angle the board is where you want to set the angle of the rip fence. This will make a huge difference in the quality of your work...joe

Thanks Joe;
That was going to be my next question about the band saw.

But to the point of drift after a blade change.

If you square the table and fence up to the blade and then change the blade why doesn't the new blade stay square with the table and fence? Its on the same wheels. What am I missing?

[Joe Jensen]

Thanks Joe;
That was going to be my next question about the band saw.

But to the point of drift after a blade change.

If you square the table and fence up to the blade and then change the blade why doesn't the new blade stay square with the table and fence? Its on the same wheels. What am I missing?

For some reason Bandsaw blades want to twist when cutting. Fortunately each blade twists the same way each time, and the same amount each time. Unfortunately each blade drifts differently. Also, as they get dull, all blades drift a lot.

The test is simple.

Also, Laguna now offeres a fence they call the "Driftmaster" specifically designed to allow for quick drift adjustments. All bandsaw fences I have used have simple adjustable rip fences to account for drift. You definitely want this. A table saw fence would be a bad thing...joe

[Joe Jensen]

I found a great you tube video showing how to adjust for drift.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OY3oKtssZk&feature=related

[Rick Fisher]

I just realized.. my bandsaw doesnt have on of those pins.. There isnt even a place for one..

[Chris Padilla]

You don't really need or want a self squaring fence on a bandsaw. Ideally you set the fence to the blade drift each time you change blades. even new sharp blades have some drift. Checking drift is simple. Take a scrap and draw a straight line on it parallel to the edges. Cut to the line freehand. Whatever angle the board is where you want to set the angle of the rip fence. This will make a huge difference in the quality of your work...joe

I don't want to track this thread off the original topic but "drift" on bandsaws is something that can be dialed out. I always have my bandsaw fence square to the blade in all dimensions and I have no issues and have never set it for "drift".

In fact, I think having a bandsaw fence similar to a tablesaw fence would be great because it would be stiff and have no deflection...or at least LESS deflection than typical bandsaw fences that only have one rail and one attachment point.