Jointer position

[Greg Long]

Hi - gotta run something by other woodworkers before I break my back moving stuff.
My 8" Grizzly jointer currently sits along the right hand side of my 1023 TS. The saw has 54 inch rails with auxillary table so the jointer is a good 70 inches from the actual TS blade. I have a large shop made outfeed bench on the outfeed side of the TS so I can cut large panels easily with a big x-cut sled by myself. Here's the issue:
Ocassionally I want to x-cut long, narrow planks for the sides of tall bookshelves etc. I like the idea of gang cutting them together on the TS using my sled, but the jointer fence and lock down screw sticks up just high enough to be problematic. Sure, I could take the fence off of the jointer (really heavy) or could try to push the jointer out of the way (really really heavy) - or - I could move the jointer to the left side of my TS. I could also do the x-cut with a circular saw, jig saw or hand saw, but none of those ideas strike me as straightforward, accurate, adequate quality and safe as the TS.
My logic is this - since all rip or x-cuts with large stuff would occur on the right side of the blade, the height of the jointer fence on the left side of the TS would not really be in the way. I think I could still rip a a 48" panel in half with this set up, which is about the widest offcut piece I can imagine in my shop. Further, it makes combined dust collection from the TS and Jointer a little straight forward.
Am I missing something? Better to scratch other heads before I move all this stuff only to discover a little "oh...yeah....." after the fact.
Thanks - Greg

[keith ouellette]

the only thing I can think of is the feed direction on the jointer. Do you have the space you need on the other side of your shop?

There may be some issue about going from the jointer to the planer if they are not near each other but I doubt that would really be an issue unless you were milling hundreds of board feet at a time.

[Mark Neeley]

Greg,

Could you just shim with some scraps (tape to beds) to raise it enough to clear the clamp?

Just a thought.

Mark Neeley
Neeley Graphics
Signs & Designs

[Barry Vabeach]

Greg, my situation was slightly different, but I solved it by putting the jointer behind the TS and elevated the TS by 6 inches so that outfeed from the TS could clear the fence of the jointer. I am about 5' 10" and found that I really liked the elevated height on the table saw. Also, dust collection used a pipe down the middle between the two. Barry.

[Robert Chapman]

Mobile base for the jointer?

[Eric DeSilva]

I think in Jim Tolpin's TS book, his set up has the TS elevated slightly, and a board on his jointer leveled with the TS top that serves as an additional support for wide boards.

[Frank Drew]

For me, an ideal position for the jointer is to the left of the table saw with the feed in the opposite direction; that way, you can easily move from one machine to the other without having to walk around anything -- it's a very natural transition, ergonomically. The two machines should be offset enough so that crosscutting longer or wider work (for instance) doesn't foul the jointer.

[glenn bradley]

If its just a bit, raise the saw.

[Jason White]

Are you tall?

If so, perhaps you could raise the height of the tablesaw enough to clear the jointer.

Jason


Hi - gotta run something by other woodworkers before I break my back moving stuff.
My 8" Grizzly jointer currently sits along the right hand side of my 1023 TS. The saw has 54 inch rails with auxillary table so the jointer is a good 70 inches from the actual TS blade. I have a large shop made outfeed bench on the outfeed side of the TS so I can cut large panels easily with a big x-cut sled by myself. Here's the issue:
Ocassionally I want to x-cut long, narrow planks for the sides of tall bookshelves etc. I like the idea of gang cutting them together on the TS using my sled, but the jointer fence and lock down screw sticks up just high enough to be problematic. Sure, I could take the fence off of the jointer (really heavy) or could try to push the jointer out of the way (really really heavy) - or - I could move the jointer to the left side of my TS. I could also do the x-cut with a circular saw, jig saw or hand saw, but none of those ideas strike me as straightforward, accurate, adequate quality and safe as the TS.
My logic is this - since all rip or x-cuts with large stuff would occur on the right side of the blade, the height of the jointer fence on the left side of the TS would not really be in the way. I think I could still rip a a 48" panel in half with this set up, which is about the widest offcut piece I can imagine in my shop. Further, it makes combined dust collection from the TS and Jointer a little straight forward.
Am I missing something? Better to scratch other heads before I move all this stuff only to discover a little "oh...yeah....." after the fact.
Thanks - Greg

[george wilson]

Can you just lay the jointer fence over to 45 degrees to make it clear? There's a stop to accurately reset it to 90 degrees.

[Greg Long]

Hi all,
Thanks for the replies - lots of good ideas got me thinking about some new ways to deal with this. Just to comment: I can't roll the jointer fence to 45 deg as it is still too tall. Jim Toplin's TS Magic was my original source for the idea of moving the jointer to the right, but I agree with Frank that the current set up with the jointer on the left with the feed opposite that of the TS makes for efficient flow. If I move the jointer to the right hand side then I have to move the timbers twice as far to plop them on the TS auxillary table for the next step in the milling process.
Since I am 6'1", I think raising the saw and outfeed table the 3" I need it seems to be the best approach.
Anybody done this? Hardwood blocks? Cabinet jacks got enough beef to get the TS (~ 500 lbs) up to get blocks under? Better ideas - ?
Thanks again
Greg

[Jason White]

Take a look at this thread for some ideas...

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=109585



Hi all,
Thanks for the replies - lots of good ideas got me thinking about some new ways to deal with this. Just to comment: I can't roll the jointer fence to 45 deg as it is still too tall. Jim Toplin's TS Magic was my original source for the idea of moving the jointer to the right, but I agree with Frank that the current set up with the jointer on the left with the feed opposite that of the TS makes for efficient flow. If I move the jointer to the right hand side then I have to move the timbers twice as far to plop them on the TS auxillary table for the next step in the milling process.
Since I am 6'1", I think raising the saw and outfeed table the 3" I need it seems to be the best approach.
Anybody done this? Hardwood blocks? Cabinet jacks got enough beef to get the TS (~ 500 lbs) up to get blocks under? Better ideas - ?
Thanks again
Greg

[Walter Plummer]

To raise the saw you need at least one friend, a pry bar,(longer is better) and some 3/4 and two by four scraps. It is called cribbing. Pry up each corner one at a time and put a block under. Doing it this way the saw is not really very heavy and you probably can go up 1 1/2" at a time. I would stack the blocks in from the corners and then slide the real mounts in from the side. You can go up higher than you actually need and then lower the saw onto the real mounts. For the real mounts I would cut blocks long enough to go from the front to the back of the saw on each side. Once the blocking is out of the way you can close off the front and back between the blocks to keep the sawdust in.