Securing Template to Work Piece

[Chris Tsutsui]

Is there a certain brand or type of tape you use for temporarily attaching an MDF template to your work piece for routing a pattern in the piece?

I've never used tape before, just screws.

[Drew Eckhardt]

Is there a certain brand or type of tape you use for temporarily attaching an MDF template to your work piece for routing a pattern in the piece?

I've never used tape before, just screws.

Generic double sided carpet tape from a big box store works great.

[Chris Tsutsui]

Last time I was there I saw two types of double sided tape.

Of the same brand, one said permanent, the other said temporary.

Should I get the temporary type or will that not be sticky enough?

[Scott Mann]

Get the temporary kind, it is plenty strong.

[pat warner]

Have some experience here.
Most importantly, expect adversity with tape and other adhesives; they're made to be temporary.
Make your templet with stops, fences, crowders and toggles.
The work can move 12 different ways! Adhesives address only a few modes of motion.
The work can split, slide, spin, tilt and so on, expect surprises with tape.
Expect to hold the work on well made templets but also expect to take some time to make them.
Has priors. (http://www.patwarner.com)

[Tom Henderson2]

Generic double sided carpet tape from a big box store works great.

Dumb question....

The stuff I've used (3M brand; don't know the specific part number) works pretty well. It is thin, and small bits are all that is needed to hold stuff together.

BUT -- it tends to leave sticky residue when I take it off.

Do you encounter that? If so, how do you handle it? I've been using solvent (acetone, etc) to remove it, but sometimes it gets down into the pores of open-grain wood like oak.

Just wondering how others handle this issue...

-TH

[Bill Huber]

I have used many different ones and the one I like the best is from Eagle America. It sticks good but yet when you are finished it comes off and leaves no sticky stuff on the work.

http://eagleamerica.com/double-faced-tape/p/447%2D7150/

[Tim Wagner]

Have some experience here.
Most importantly, expect adversity with tape and other adhesives; they're made to be temporary.
Make your templet with stops, fences, crowders and toggles.
The work can move 12 different ways! Adhesives address only a few modes of motion.
The work can split, slide, spin, tilt and so on, expect surprises with tape.
Expect to hold the work on well made templets but also expect to take some time to make them.
Has priors. (http://www.patwarner.com)

I tend t agree. I would perhaps combine the use of tape and a pinner. You wouldn't need many, and they would leave very minor holes that could be hiddin (filled), very easily.

Besides, you were wanting to help spur th econimy by adding a new cool tool to your inventory anyway right?

[Lee Schierer]

Dumb question....

The stuff I've used (3M brand; don't know the specific part number) works pretty well. It is thin, and small bits are all that is needed to hold stuff together.

BUT -- it tends to leave sticky residue when I take it off.

Do you encounter that? If so, how do you handle it? I've been using solvent (acetone, etc) to remove it, but sometimes it gets down into the pores of open-grain wood like oak.

Just wondering how others handle this issue...

-TH

I've used double sided tape for many tasks in my shop from holding patterns, holding duplicate parts to each other for shaping, and even holding small parts for routing. I prefer the thin type tapes with a mylar inner layer that allows them to be removed pretty easily. The acrylic adhesive types really stick well to wood so you don't need many square inches for a lot of holding power. A few small 1/2" long strips in a few locations usually does the trick. Try not to leave the tape stuck to the wood any longer than absolutely necessary as the tape tends to get a better grip over time.

When the adhesive stays behind, I clean it up with lacquer thinner and a clean rag. Works every time.

[Kevin Groenke]

If you're making more than a few parts with a template it's a great excuse to get a vacuum pump. You'll soon find all sorts of uses for it: vac clamping, vac bagging, vac templating, vac chucking, etc....

Tape is fine for gently routing a few parts but if you're planning on hogging off any significant material I'd suggest using something more secure (not that I haven't done it).

[Rob Price]

double sided "carpet" tape works well too. I usually don't have any residue, but if I do, a quick wipe with mineral spirits works. I use the green "duck" brand from wally world. I found it was thinner than the double sided tape they had, and the inner meshwork helps it all come off at once.

[Craig Moulton]

http://eagleamerica.com/Perfect-Butt/p/424-3414/

I can't wait to get LOML one of these. Stop her fussing.

[Larry Edgerton]

I use a weaker variety of hot melt glue, just a good tap with a hammer when done and peel the glue off. No marks on the template or the peice, and much easier to deal with than double faced tape in my opinion.

[Brian Kent]

Pat, it's good to hear you say that.

I know way less than nothing about routers, except they have really helped sometimes and I have messed up pieces badly. I am glad to hear that it is the nature of the beast that it moves 12 ways, and not just the fact that I don't have a clue (even though I really don't).:rolleyes:

[Rob Price]

I use a weaker variety of hot melt glue, just a good tap with a hammer when done and peel the glue off. No marks on the template or the peice, and much easier to deal with than double faced tape in my opinion.

Sounds like a good idea, I may try that. sometimes splitting the pieces can be a bear... Do you use just a few drops around the edges?

[Stephen Edwards]

This tape works great and you only need to use a small amount of it. Remove it immediately after use. You kind sort of "roll it off" with your fingers. Clean up the residue with lacquer thinner.

http://www.uline.com/BL_6002/3M-General-Purpose-Dispenser-Rolls

I use the the 3M 969 – Heavy duty.

A less expensive but almost as good alternative from the same company is this one:

http://www.uline.com/BL_3101/Uline-Adhesive-Transfer-Tape?keywords=transfer%2520tape

The industrial or the heavy duty in the link above will work well. The heavy duty is a little stronger and a little harder to remove.

As someone else already said, you don't need to use a lot of it. Practice on some scrap until you get the feel of it.

If you're doing very much of this type of work, the tape dispenser guns are a big help!