Question about using nailers

[Louis Brandt]

Hello,

I’m getting ready to pull the trigger on a compressor and nailer(s), the Porter-Cable FN250C finish nailer, the BN200B brad nailer, and the pancake compressor.

I’ve never used a power nailer before. Obviously, for each different application, there may be different thicknesses and types of wood and different depth requirements, so in each case, how do you know:
how deep to set the depth adjustment on the nailer?
how much pressure to use on the compressor?

Is this just a matter of trial and error, or is there a rule of thumb to follow? Do you have to run a test on a scrap piece before you start? I don’t want to start a project only to ruin whatever I’m nailing.

Thanks,
Louis

[Bob Childress]

Relax. It's pretty easy to figure out actually.

Test on some scrap before you start. Buy a selection of lengths so you can tailor the length to the job. The compressor will have two gauges. Set the second one (the output one) to around 100 psi to start and adjust from there if needed. At 100 psi, if the nail is proud, increase the depth setting on the nailer and if too deep, go the other way.

BTW, also buy a blower attachment first thing. They are handy as all get out. You will love it.

[Byron Trantham]

I wouldn't worry too much about the depth setting. A few fires will tell you if its OK. As far as air pressure goes, generally 100psi is the right pressure. My tools recommend 90-100 psi. I set mine to 100 psi. There is one thing I would like to mention that is far more important than the depth or air pressure - KEEP YOUR FINGERS AWAY from the impact point! Brads, pins, finishing and framing nails can sometimes decide to take a path that is unexpected.:mad: I have the 250B PC finishing nailer and that tool is unpredictable. It does like to double fire, that is, shoot two nails instead of the desired ONE nail. When you get yours, fire it up and shoot a bunch of nails just to see what happens and how the gun reacts. Air nailers are the best but not without some danger. Good luck.

[Cary Falk]

Both guns have a 70-120 PSI rating. I have the 18 and 16 gauge nailers. I set my regulator at 90psi and have left it. You will probably use the 18gauge more than the 15. The 15 will have a greater holding power but will leave a larger hole to fill and will split thinner wood. Be careful, longer 18 gauge nails tend to follow grain and can pop out of the side of something you are nailing if it is on the edge. Keep you fingers clear.

[Mark Bolton]

To follow up on Byron's wise words, your fastener length selection will really be a factor for depth and safety. Personally we never adjust compressor pressure for depth control. It is not a reliable way as the pressure will fluctuate while your shooting nails anyway. You want to set your air pressure on the high side and use the depth adjustment on the gun to fine tune.

For fastener length, many people think the longer the better but this isnt true. A 2" or 2 1/2" finish nail can hook right back out of the piece (forming a ring shape) if it hits a dense knot or another nail. If your fingers are near, they will be, well, hurt.

Many things affect the depth your nails will shoot, oak, pine, fastener length, etc.. You will likely find a single setting an rarely fuss with it. Just keep your fingers clear.

You will love it,
Mark

[chris beserra]

Don't forget to wear safety glasses too. Strange things can happen when a little brad goes into hardwood, especially anything on an angle or edge.

[Peter Quinn]

Old school rule of thumb is that fastener length for nails should be three times the thickness of the material being fastened. This is not a hard and fast rule but something to come close to. So an 1 1/4" 18GA brad is really only capable in theory of fastening 3/8" thick moldings. Maybe 1/2" but not much more.

3/4" thick material needs at least a 2" or better fastener IME, and for that I prefer 15GA because as noted above 18GA or 16GA fasteners can exit stock in unpredictable directions at that length. Thicker moldings tend to stay where they are put with 15GA fasteners, not so much with 18GA fasteners.

I find 18GA brads real handy for tacking things that will be reinforced later with screws or glue and clamps. Just to keep things from moving around during assembly. In these cases the fastener length rule is out the window, you just need enough to length to keep things in place.

As far as setting the depth of the nails I run the compressor at 90PSi and fire test nails in scraps to gauge the results. I set the depth using the gun's depth setting as it is more reliable than using the regulator. Wood density varies so it is not a perfect science. I would rather shoot pneumatic fasteners a bit too deep and fill the hole created than a bit too proud and try to counter sink them as this never works well. They just don't take to nail sets like hand banged wire nails.

[Greg Crawford]

One thing I didn't see mentioned is to keep flesh, fingers, toes, etc., away from the BACK side of the piece. The fastener can go deeper than it's supposed to, or "ricochet", split the wood, etc., and come out the back. I've come real close before.

[John Lucas]

A comment about double firing that was mentioned earlier. Take it back to the dealer and have them set the trigger to not allow it. In the case of PC, I think all the current models have an adjustment or toggle to allow it or not. I prefer the shipers motto "one shot one hit" or words to that effect.

[Jason Roehl]

Double-fires are a user error. I know, because I have to think about it every time I use one of my pneumatic nailers. You do NOT pull the trigger on a nailer like you would a firearm. "Squeeeeeeezing" the trigger on a nailer results in multiple fires. You have to pull fully and release the trigger in a quick motion. Every once in a while, I forget and get a double-tap.

But, like John said, you can usually get nailers with a sequential-fire trigger: the safety must be depressed, then the trigger pulled for each nail/brad. But that's too slow for me on most of my nailers. The only one I have set up that way is my framing nailer, because I don't do any production framing. Everything else needs to go a little faster...