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Ron Petley
04-11-2009, 7:33 PM
I am waiting for my catalog form SJBT to order some parts to try a plane from scratch.
I in the mean time I have this old plane body and would like to modify it to a 55 degree plane. I have a drawing of the basic layout inspired by Derek Cohen. My question is I woulds like to drill and tap that little tab on the bottom of the plane to secure the "tote" can this metal be drilled ant taped. It would make it a lot easier. The sides of this body are to low to put a pin through at the back. The angle of the old tote screw is at the wrong angle.
So can this metal be drilled and taped? (I have the tools to do this)
Cheers Ron.
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Bruce Page
04-11-2009, 7:47 PM
Yes, quite easily. BUT, because of the thinness of the tab and because it’s cast iron, it won’t be very strong.

Bill Houghton
04-11-2009, 8:22 PM
Cast iron is usually tapped with a coarse thread, but, if you're tapping a thin section, fine thread might be better.

Ron Petley
04-11-2009, 9:15 PM
Thanks a lot. I was thinking I would grind the back a bit to get the tab a little bigger. Yes it is not that thick, but I figure the "tote" is pushed so the lifting force on it will not be all that much, the force should be mostly at a right angle to this. I guess I could just drill a hole into it and screw into the wood which would be even easier. I will give it a go and see how it works out, since this is a project to see how things go might as well try a few things.
Cheers Ron.

Brian Kent
04-11-2009, 9:33 PM
I made a Stanley infill last year, based on Derek's idea and a different shape handle.

One thing I will never do again is try to peen screw heads on a cast iron plane body. It can't take any beating from a ball peen handle. I have a couple of crack repairs to prove it.

Also, I would not try to carve the bottom of the handle around all of the curves of the plane, but would take the floor of the plane down to level with an end mill.

Just my 2¢.

george wilson
04-11-2009, 11:07 PM
Coarse threads were conceived for cast iron,fine for steel. You will need a taper tap,and a bottoming tap.If the hole isn't very deep,you should start with a plug tap,and finish with a bottoming tap.

Ron Petley
04-11-2009, 11:40 PM
Thanks for the advise. I think you are right the sides would not hold up to much pounding. I guess I can counter sink and use some screws.
This plane was in a bunch of stuff I bought to get some hammers I wanted, so it was like a freebie. It is not a Stanley( but is the size of a #3), has no name on it and the frog has only 2 screws and no screw to move the frog forward or backward, so there is very little in the bottom making this a good body to build into a infill. So thanks to your help I will revise and use some screws including in the tab on the back, and to hold the infill wood in place. I will have to figure out a way for the pivot pin, I was going to use a rod and pien it in. Maybe I will get my catalog and order a lever cap. Maybe I will have to call this a Derek infill, I really like the shape of handle on his.
Cheers Ron.

Brian Kent
04-12-2009, 7:38 AM
Ron, I used machine screws for a pivot pin. They did not need peening.

Ron Petley
04-12-2009, 11:54 AM
Brian:
I am a little unsure of what you mean, do you use just the screws? Or are you puting them into something?
Cheers Ron.