Aluminum Router Plate recommendation

[Greg McCallister]

I recently acquired a nice piece of office desktop that is 1 1/4" thick and heavy as all get out. Nice and flat. I am planning on using it for a router table top. Previously I just mounted the fixed base of my router (Ridgid 2920 (http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Heavy-Duty-EVS-2-14-Peak-HP-Router-Combo/index.html)) to the bottom without a mounting plate in an extension wing of my table saw. I have sold that saw and now am using my Walker Turner saw and would have to make another extension that is larger as the top is 32.5" deep :D.
I just recently enlarged my basement shop and now have room for a router table :p. The extension wing router worked but I found it to be somewhat of a pain because my woodworking planning at times is somewhat lacking.
As you all know setup takes longer than actually doing any cutting especially on a router table.
OK, enough of that - I see there are quite a few inserts available now compared to when I made my other router top (alright its been a few years).
The plastic ones are good I guess but I figured an aluminum one is better.
Being you all are the tried and true experts ;), I would like your input on which ones you have? The setup such as hole size, inserts, leveling, flatness etc... and value of price. Money as always is an issue and I really do not need a lift as the base of the Ridgid already has an above top adjustment feature. Your input would be deeply appreciated.

[Trace Beard]

I have four of the Woodpeckers aluminum router plates w/ aluminum twist lock inserts and the quality is outstanding and they are easy to level. I think they are 99 for the plate and another 30 or so for the inserts.

[Bill Jensen]

I like the aluminum plate that got at Rockler for my PC 890 series router. They have some predrilled for particular routers and some blank (just the openings for the bits. Reasonable prices also. And if you have puchased from them you might have a coupon laying around that will help out on prices.

Bill

[Stephen Edwards]

I can advise you not to order this one:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1385&filter=router%20plate

I bought that one because it was on sale as a discontinued item. They shipped 3 of them to me and all were defective. Two of the three had a bad sag and the third one had a bad crown on one end of the plate.

Eventually, to make it right, they upgraded my order at no additional charge to this plate:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21299&filter=router%20plate

I'm 100% satisfied with this plate and with Rockler's customer service. They also asked me not to return the 3 defective plates.

That's my experience.

[Myk Rian]

If for any reason you get a scratch or mark to bare metal with an aluminum plate, be aware that it can leave black marks on your project that are difficult to get out.
I use phenolic plates. Harbor freight has a good one for $20 that comes with 2 rings.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94331

[Stephen Edwards]

If for any reason you get a scratch or mark to bare metal with an aluminum plate, be aware that it can leave black marks on your project that are difficult to get out.
I use phenolic plates. Harbor freight has a good one for $20 that comes with 2 rings.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94331


Myk, Thanks for the heads up on the HF router plate. I had wondered about that one. Nice to know that it's another one of the HF "gems". I'll keep that one mind for a future RT project.

As discussed at length in an ongoing and reappearing recent thread there ARE some very good items from HF.

Regards,

[Howard Miller]

Myk,
Do you think a Bosch 1617 will fit the HF plate?

[glenn bradley]

Metal is your friend. Check for posts on phenolic sagging. I ran Rockler plates for years without any problems except dropping the screws now and then that hold the inserts. On the upside you can make your own inserts out of 1/8" hardboard and 4 or 5 sizes will do most of your stuff without sacrificing the safety of a narrow gap. The plates that use snap in rings would solve the screw dropping problem but the sizes are limited.

I moved to a Woodpecker lift which is the same size as their plates. At $100 for the plate and $200 for a Quick-Lift, I would be hard pressed to not just get the lift.

P.s. I run a PRL which is a bit more at $269 but then (like their plate) you need to buy their twist lock rings (3 come with any plate or lift). Incr'a version of the WP lift is nice too and uses magnetic inserts (no twist, no screws).

[Greg McCallister]

Thanks everyone for your input. I have a Rockler, Woodcraft, and Harbor freight stores not far from me. Might go with the Rockler setup knowing that if I want to expand in the future the cutout will not be a problem.

[Stan Johnsey]

Gotta 20% off coupon from Harbor Freight. Curious to see if they have their plate in the store.