My "timber frame" mobile base!

[Jason White]

Having looked all over for a suitable mobile base for my new Grizzly cabinet saw, I decided to make my own out of hardwood. I did this for a couple of reasons. First, I'm about 6'5" tall, so I wanted to get the table height up to 40" without the saw getting too tippy. Also, I wanted something beefy and attractive and thought this might be a good opportunity for me to practice a number of woodworking techniques that I'd not attempted before.

The four main parts are made of red oak. I used mortise and "stub-tenon" joinery, with bench bolts purchased from Lee Valley. I made the mortises on the drill press with a forstner bit and cleaned them up with a chisel. The stub tenons I made on the tablesaw with a stacked dado. The combination of the M&T joints with the bench bolts is probably overkill, but this thing is solid as a rock.

I also used 4" double-locking urethane casters from Woodcraft and the angled steel I found at Home Depot in the "Simpson Strong-Tie" rack. They're very thick and were about $10 each. I couldn't believe how pricey they were, but they're perfect! I did have to drill some smaller holes in them for lag screws, however. Each one sits in a small recess created with the dado stack.

For the finish, I just sprayed 3 thin coats of Cabot spray varnish. Nice and easy, but it did take several days to fully dry.

Now if I can just figure out how to get my saw onto the base! ;)

[Grant Davis]

Jason, that looks really nice and has given me some ideas for a few pieces of my own equipment. Thanks for posting

[Bruce Page]

That looks great Jason.
I'm 6'3 and sometimes wish my TS was a little higher.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Excellent solution...looks great and you know it will last. Fine job!

[Jason White]

It makes a big difference on my back!


That looks great Jason.
I'm 6'3 and sometimes wish my TS was a little higher.

[Jason White]

Thanks! I'll post a picture of my saw on the base when I figure out how to get it on there.




Jason, that looks really nice and has given me some ideas for a few pieces of my own equipment. Thanks for posting

[Greg Cole]

That looks great Jason.
I'm 6'3 and sometimes wish my TS was a little higher.
+1 to that.
I put a "lift kit" under my jointer as the bending down is a pain in the back.
That's pretty nice Jason.

[Ben Cadotte]

Now if I can just figure out how to get my saw onto the base! ;)

A folding 2 ton engine hoist / shop crane is a back saver. Can be had for less than $200 from multiple places. Get the folding one as it takes up little room, and fits through normal doors when folded.

I unloaded a 450# boiler by myself 2 days ago. I used it to move all my heavy items when we got our new house 2 years ago. It has paid for itself many times over since I have had it.

[Jason White]

Can you please post a picture of your lift kit? I've often wish my jointer was a bit higher, too.

Jason


+1 to that.
I put a "lift kit" under my jointer as the bending down is a pain in the back.
That's pretty nice Jason.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

+1 to that.
I put a "lift kit" under my jointer as the bending down is a pain in the back.
That's pretty nice Jason.


6' 4" here, and plus one more on the lift. I have 2" of shims and blocks under my Felder combo to get it up where it should be. Jason, your solution is WAY more elegant.

[Joe Von Kaenel]

Jason,

I embarrassed to say that looks nicer than some of my furniture projects.

Joe

[Jason White]

Mine, too.:o


Jason,

I embarrassed to say that looks nicer than some of my furniture projects.

Joe

[Mark Grotenhuis]

Can you please post a picture of your lift kit? I've often wish my jointer was a bit higher, too.
Jason

Here was my idea for raising my planer up 5" higher. I raised it so the boards I ran though it went over top of my table saw not into the side of it. I'm considering doing this same setup to my jointer. The boards I run though through my jointer run into the side of my router table. It'd be nice to have them at the same height.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=108341

[Bill White]

Having looked all over for a suitable mobile base for my new Grizzly cabinet saw, I decided to make my own out of hardwood. I did this for a couple of reasons. First, I'm about 6'5" tall, so I wanted to get the table height up to 40" without the saw getting too tippy. Also, I wanted something beefy and attractive and thought this might be a good opportunity for me to practice a number of woodworking techniques that I'd not attempted before.

The four main parts are made of red oak. I used mortise and "stub-tenon" joinery, with bench bolts purchased from Lee Valley. I made the mortises on the drill press with a forstner bit and cleaned them up with a chisel. The stub tenons I made on the tablesaw with a stacked dado. The combination of the M&T joints with the bench bolts is probably overkill, but this thing is solid as a rock.

I also used 4" double-locking urethane casters from Woodcraft and the angled steel I found at Home Depot in the "Simpson Strong-Tie" rack. They're very thick and were about $10 each. I couldn't believe how pricey they were, but they're perfect! I did have to drill some smaller holes in them for lag screws, however. Each one sits in a small recess created with the dado stack.

For the finish, I just sprayed 3 thin coats of Cabot spray varnish. Nice and easy, but it did take several days to fully dry.

Now if I can just figure out how to get my saw onto the base! ;)

Mr. White, looks like that puppy will hold a Abrams. ;) What did ya end up spendin' on that bad boy?
Bill

[John Thompson]

Excellent idea and execution, Jason.

Sarge..

[Jason White]

The red oak was free (I have a tree guy friend with a portable saw mill). I milled it all up from 8/4 rough lumber.

The casters, bench bolts and angled steel probably came to about $120 or so. I probably didn't really need the bench bolts, but I figured it couldn't hurt. You could also save money using cheaper casters.

Jason



Mr. White, looks like that puppy will hold a Abrams. ;) What did ya end up spendin' on that bad boy?
Bill

[Jason White]

Here's the mobile base with the saw on it. I think it turned out pretty good!

I added a piece of 3/4" plywood on the inside and bolted to the angled steel for more stability. Plus this will allow me to lag screw the bottom of the saw cabinet to the plywood so the saw won't shift in its base.

Jason

P.S. -- if you can't see the pictures, go here...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/15863123@N04/sets/72157616541969271/

[Jeff Cremers]

Very nice job, that is going on my "to do list" I have a shop fox one for my grizzly bandsaw and its just junk. From day one it wouldn't roll worth a crap.
Jeff

[Jason White]

The one I built rolls very nicely!

Normally, I would have just used fixed casters for two of the wheels and double-locking swivels for the other two. However, that means I would've had to steer the saw like a car. My shop is extremely small and I wanted to be able to roll it in any direction easily, so that's why I used 4 double-locking swivels. The only drawback is that I have to walk all the way around the saw to unlock all the wheels (which I really don't have to do all that often).

When all 4 wheels are locked, it's pretty solid. It does wiggle a tiny bit, but you're going to get that with any machine on wheels, unless there's some kind of "feet" to anchor the base to the ground.

Jason




Very nice job, that is going on my "to do list" I have a shop fox one for my grizzly bandsaw and its just junk. From day one it wouldn't roll worth a crap.
Jeff

[Jason White]

That's too bad. The Shop Fox ones look pretty heavy duty (at least in the pictures).

Jason


Very nice job, that is going on my "to do list" I have a shop fox one for my grizzly bandsaw and its just junk. From day one it wouldn't roll worth a crap.
Jeff

[Jason White]

Having tried the base for a few weeks with the four double-locking swivel casters, I've determined that two "fixed" casters and two swivel casters would be better than the four swivels I installed. It's just too hard to steer the saw with four swivels.

Oh well.

Jason




Having looked all over for a suitable mobile base for my new Grizzly cabinet saw, I decided to make my own out of hardwood. I did this for a couple of reasons. First, I'm about 6'5" tall, so I wanted to get the table height up to 40" without the saw getting too tippy. Also, I wanted something beefy and attractive and thought this might be a good opportunity for me to practice a number of woodworking techniques that I'd not attempted before.

The four main parts are made of red oak. I used mortise and "stub-tenon" joinery, with bench bolts purchased from Lee Valley. I made the mortises on the drill press with a forstner bit and cleaned them up with a chisel. The stub tenons I made on the tablesaw with a stacked dado. The combination of the M&T joints with the bench bolts is probably overkill, but this thing is solid as a rock.

I also used 4" double-locking urethane casters from Woodcraft and the angled steel I found at Home Depot in the "Simpson Strong-Tie" rack. They're very thick and were about $10 each. I couldn't believe how pricey they were, but they're perfect! I did have to drill some smaller holes in them for lag screws, however. Each one sits in a small recess created with the dado stack.

For the finish, I just sprayed 3 thin coats of Cabot spray varnish. Nice and easy, but it did take several days to fully dry.

Now if I can just figure out how to get my saw onto the base! ;)

[Jim O'Dell]

I can see on something big, that might be true. But I love the 4 swivels on my Herc-U-Lifts that I have. 4 different tools, table saw, router table, planer cart, and miter saw cart. I don't have to be precise in my steering, just get close with one end and then push the other end where it needs to be. Especially the planer cart and miter saw where they have to go north/south between the wall cabinets and the table saw, then go east/west in and out of the working spot in the middle of the cabinets. No other way it would work for that. Jim.

[Chris Parks]

I have often wondered about the recommended heights of machines, I just did my own thing, I am 5'4'' and my TS table is 40". My mitre saw and bandsaw are also about the same height if not a little higher and far easier to use. Why should we be bent over trying to sight cuts? I don't have to bend down to any great extent to use any of my machines and it is far easier. Worbenches are a far different issue and need to be lower but I am not convinced they need to be as low as folklore says. As we get older eyesight and lack of mobility must change the way we do things.

[John Petsche]

Great idea on the mobile base.