I'm a band saw n00b and I have a question

[Brad Wood]

Hi,

So, I've had my new Grizz G0555 for about a month now, which has caused me to pay more attention to the variety of band saw posts (here and other sites).

One thing I see consistently is people upgrading the guides to things like cool blocks and lots of others... I see folks that make their own guides, out of wood, phenolic, etc etc etc.

One thing that really stands out to me is that these are all solutions that are square. I've looked closely at my G0555 (which has three bearings, top and bottom). I don't see that I would be able to do something like a cool block, or whatever.
Are there upgrades to the guide assembly itself? What are the options out there (that are hopefully compatible with the Grizz)?????
What are the benefits of going to something like this over the stock bearings?

Thanks

[Ray Dockrey]

I think the bearings work just fine. i know at one time you could order the parts to go to a square guide but don't know if that is still an option. If the bearings gunk up I replace them with sealed ABEC5 bearings available at any skateboard shop. I got mine at Academy Sports For $14 for 16. They are rubber sealed and work just fine.

[Lee Schierer]

Most saws don't come with bearing guides. For those models you need cool blocks and such or you can upgrade to Carter Guides which are costly and just happen to be bearings. In short your saw already is better than the cool blocks and such.

[glenn bradley]

The blocks (shop made or otherwise) are not compatible with bearing guides. Many folks upgrade TO bearings. What problems are you having with your guides that makes you want to change?

[Jason Beam]

Yer at the top of the upgrade food chain already, Brad. Bearing guides are the end of the path as far as souping up your guides goes. :)

[Brad Wood]

Thanks guys,

I'm not having problems at all actually. I just see a lot of posts regarding the blocks.... and being new to band saws (literally, the G0555 is my first ever), I guess I am still just learning a lot.

I guess it's good to know I am already at the top on this one :)


p.s. I'm finding woodworking machines in general are a lot like Harleys... once you get one, there are lots of choices and options for making it "better". Trying to sift through all the hoopla and figuring out what "I" need or want is the tough part.

[Pete Bradley]

I find myself saying this a lot to newbies: forget the "upgrades". Concentrate on getting experience, being safe, and building your skills. Those things will apply whatever machine you have, and you'll develop your own feel for what if anything you'd change.

With experience, I expect you'll find that you don't need add-ons at all (though you may decide to cash in your current saw for a bigger one ;)).

Pete

[Brad Wood]

I find myself saying this a lot to newbies: forget the "upgrades". Concentrate on getting experience, being safe, and building your skills. Those things will apply whatever machine you have, and you'll develop your own feel for what if anything you'd change.

With experience, I expect you'll find that you don't need add-ons at all (though you may decide to cash in your current saw for a bigger one ;)).

Pete


OMG, did you just call me a "newbie"? I'm not sure I appreciate that comment.... ok, just kidding.

In all seriousness, I appreciate you comment and it makes a lot of sense. Thank you

[Chris Padilla]

Weeeellll, Bradley, you just called yourself a newb...Pete was just extending the courtesy! ;)

Deep down, we're all newbs on here...some of us just refuse to admit it and, admittedly, some are a bit less newb than others. :D

[Loren Hedahl]

I might add something to Pete's recommendation that you forget the upgrades.

Spend your hard earned money on more wood instead.

"more wood -- more wood -- more wood -- more wood -- more wood"

Did I remember to mention that you would do well to buy more wood?

[Curt Harms]

guides but IMO bearings have one down side--I don't think they work well with blades less than 1/4". Bearings have to ride on the portion of the blade behind the teeth. There's not much surface between the gullet and the back of a 1/8" blade. Cool Blocks and such can have the blade including the teeth buried in the guide.

Curt

[Rick Fisher]

If you dont have problem with the guides, dont change them. These are the Carter Guides spoke of in an earlier post.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/P1020319.jpg

They have a big bearing at the back, but friction guides at the sides. They are "BIG". take up some room .. With a 3/4" blade, setup tight and tensioned well, they dont budge at all. I think these are great for resawing but with a tiny blade, they may not be ideal at all.. I have never cut a curve with them, so I dont know.

I use this saw for ripping and resawing lumber. Rarely cut lumber on my Table Saw anymore.. infact never. So these guides get a good workout. These are pretty industrial for a home shop, so even though I work em hard on occasion, they will likely last a lifetime..

When ripping lumber, that rear wheel just scream's ..

[Andrew Joiner]

Rick,

What are the side blocks made from? Metal?


Brad,
My understanding is metal,ceramic or wood block side guides are best for green, wet or gummy wood. The bearings can get gummed up and bumpy.
Wood or phenolic works good for blades under 1/4" wide as mentioned. A bearing support for the back edge of the blade works good in all cases.

[Rick Fisher]

Apparently they are made of Teflon. Parts are available for these guides, so when the rub guides or rear wheel get worn out, you can just rebuild the guide.

Looking at the site, they make a guide called the Micro Precision for 14" - 20" saws.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/Cartermicro.jpg

[Russ Sears]

I have the same saw and the same question. As I'm reading the thread I'm thinking "what about narrow blades like 1/8" and then Curt popped up with the same issue.
So, what do we do in order to use 1/8" blades? Cool blocks? Are they made to fit this saw?

[Brad Wood]

I have the same saw and the same question. As I'm reading the thread I'm thinking "what about narrow blades like 1/8" and then Curt popped up with the same issue.
So, what do we do in order to use 1/8" blades? Cool blocks? Are they made to fit this saw?

i've had the same thought while following this thread. I bought four blades from Timberwolf, but have only used the 1/2" and 3/8". Based on the Grizz directions of having the bearing sit behind the teeth (and as noted in a previous reply), I don't see how I would get my 1/4" or 1/8" set up correctly.
The sales pitch on this saw is that it will take 1/8" to 3/4" blades, but there is no way for the bearings to back that far up to stay behind the teeth. I'm nearly backed up all the way just for the 3/8" blade

[Curt Harms]

I have the same saw and the same question. As I'm reading the thread I'm thinking "what about narrow blades like 1/8" and then Curt popped up with the same issue.
So, what do we do in order to use 1/8" blades? Cool blocks? Are they made to fit this saw?

http://www.carterproducts.com/product_list.asp?cat_id=14 They run around $80 at Woodcraft. A machined piece of aluminum and a bearing.

[Guy Belleman]

I guess everyone has to try a 1/8" blade on their bandsaw. I did and found that set up was difficult and required changes in parts. Changing blades quickly became tedious.

So what did I do? Bought a good scroll saw, which is a saw that is designed to make tight corners. Now, I just leave the 1/2" blade on the bandsaw and it is really to go all of the time. When I need to cut some corners, the scroll is ready to go right beside it. I spend more time cutting wood than adjusting blades.

[James Carmichael]

Weeeellll, Bradley, you just called yourself a newb...Pete was just extending the courtesy! ;)

Deep down, we're all newbs on here...some of us just refuse to admit it and, admittedly, some are a bit less newb than others. :D

Most of us have just been newbs a lot longer;)