Did grizzly make a 15" band saw?

[keith ouellette]

Now they have 14" and 17" and nothing in between. I am going to look at a used one and it is supposed to be a 15" with 1 hp. but I don't have the model number

[Curt Harms]

Now they have 14" and 17" and nothing in between. I am going to look at a used one and it is supposed to be a 15" with 1 hp. but I don't have the model number

G1148 grizzly.com/images/manuals/g1148_m.pdf

I had one. The max resaw is around 7 1/2" and the motor was 3/4 h.p. I found it underpowered for resawing even with its somewhat limited resaw height. I refitted a 1.5 h.p. motor which made it a nice performer.One oddity I recall is that it uses two blade tracking knobs. Why? I have no idea. Bear in mind this is a mid '90's Grizzly product and I don't know that it would compare favorably with today's Grizzly products but it certainly beats no bandsaw.

HTH

Curt

[Gary Curtis]

My old Grizzly 18" BS also has the two tracking knobs. When I tried to order parts, Grizzly had no record of the model number. Can you believe that.

The thing wobbles badly and scares me. If it didn't weigh 300 lbs., I'd drop it in an empty field somewhere. Really a clunker.

Gary Curtis

[Mike Sheppard]

Keith
I have a G1148 15" band saw, I like it a lot, it replaced a (junk) Craftsman 12" tilt head,so thats all I can compare it to. It takes a 103" blade and can resaw a little over 7". I replaced the guides with bearings from Grizz for about $40 and that made a difference. I have the manual if you need any info from it.
Mike

[rich murray]

I got one nearly new for $150 at a garage sale. The blade tension rod relied on a piece of 1/8" thick x 1 1/2" long x 3/4" wide piece of metal which acted as a nut. The sharp corners of this "nut" dug into the cabinet wall and tiled the "nut" causing it to strip out the tension rod. This was easily fixed by rounding the corners of the "nut" and by JB Welding a nut to the bottom of the "nut" which let the tension rod run true. I don't do much resawing with mine, but it performed well enough on the 5" pieces I did resaw. The guide blocks on mine are actually rollers (unlike the blocks shown in the manual). They are a little funky to adjust, but it's doable. This is not a high-end precision machine, but it has done everything I have asked of it, and the price was right. Here is the manual site:
http://images.grizzly.com/grizzlycom/manuals/g1148_m.pdf

sorry, I can't seem to make it active, but you can cut and paste.

[Guy Belleman]

This saw was great for my small workshop, and runs on 110V. I purchased it 7 years ago, just before the phase out. A little more stout than the 14" saws I looked at, and it didn't need any riser blocks.

I did replace the guides with cool blocks. I would like to hear more about the bearings that could be used as guides. Which ones, etc.

I found the tension knob difficult, small and not easy to get the proper tension. I wanted to get a handwheel, like one of these, but the tension bar was not quite long enough: http://sawsndust.com/a-bs-handwheel.htm
So, I got one of these and have been very happy with it. http://www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-14330-Tension-Crank/dp/B001C4UOVS

[Paul Ryan]

The thing wobbles badly and scares me. If it didn't weigh 300 lbs., I'd drop it in an empty field somewhere. Really a clunker.

Gary Curtis


I haven't had a laught like that in awhile!

Thanks Gary

[Mike Sheppard]

Guy
The bearings came from Grizzly, I phoned and told them the saw mod# and they send them out, as I recall about $40 with shipping. The thing that holds the lower bearing had to be shimmed up but no big deal.
Mike