How to cut a "notch" in the top of a table leg?

[dennis thompson]

I am building a library table. The front rail lays flat & is notched into the top of the legs . The leg is about 3" x 3" & the notch will be on the top of the leg & be 2 1/2" across the leg x 1" wide into the leg X 1" deep.
How would you cut this? I'm thinking router but freehand scares me & I can't figure out how to get a router guide on such a small piece
Thanks
Dennis

[Ken Higginbotham]

Can you nibble this out with the miter gauge guide on a table saw?

[Eric Roberge]

I agree with Ken! Use the TS, but first take some scrap and build a small jig to work in conjunction with your miter gauge. This will allow you to secure the small piece to the jig and then safely make your cuts.
Don't cut corners or yourself,... cut wood;)

A band saw may be another option. Do you have one?

[Joe Scharle]

Every table I make that has a drawer uses a top rail dovetailed into the top of the leg. Pre Woodrat, I would saw out the DT outline on the leg tops and then chisel out the socket. Then saw the DT profile on the rail. This is actually faster and easier than many may think.

I thought I had a pic somewhere:
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/989/thumbs/Pine_tablea_1_.JPG (http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=18658)

[Prashun Patel]

If I understand correctly, you need to make a stopped dado or mortise in the top of the leg. In that case, a tablesaw isn't going to help, right?

I'd do it one of 2 ways:

1) Router: Clamp auxiliary pieces around the leg to make a bigger base for a router to sit safely on, then make a mortising template for your notch and cut it with a spiral bit and clean the corners with a mortising chisel.

2) Dowel jig: Use it with a stopped collar to hog out the meat of the mortise. Clean it up with a chisel.

[Ken Higginbotham]

Hum... Maybe when need a diagram/more info - ?

[Eric Roberge]

Hum... Maybe when need a diagram/more info - ?

Yeah, I guess that I didn't understand the question either.
Thanks shawn.

I guess I would still just build a jig to secure it to and then use a router

[Drew Lavis]

I've done this on a router table, using pencil marks on the fence to show where to stop, then backing the piece out carefully. The bit wants to 'grab' the table leg though, so I've wondered if the technique is a good one. As long as you're taking small cuts it seems to work okay.

I've also done it with a mortiser - I have one of those attachments that works with my drill press - and cleaned it up by hand.

[Jim Becker]

I would notch in using sharp hand tools...and make it a dovetail for added strength. This is the traditional method and frankly doesn't take any more time than trying to do it with power tools when you consider setup time and the mental energy expended to figure out the best (and safest) setup... ;)

[Paul Atkins]

I agree with Jim. Sometimes my brain keeps me overthinking a project, taking more time to figure it out than just keeping it simple.

[Chris Friesen]

Dovetailed with hand tools, definately. Dovetail saw and chisels would be the usual tools. Maybe a small router plane if you wanted to get fancy.

This joint only visible from one side in the finished table--so only the visible shoulder needs to be perfectly tight. Your post has good timing...Chris Schwarz just wrote about a similar topic.

http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/Real+Joinery+Surfaces.aspx

[glenn bradley]

If I was going to do this 8 times or more, I would make a quick jig for the router to hog out most of the material. Since you are talking about 2 cuts I would just chisel it out. You could 3/4" Forstner some of the material out of the center to save you some mallet time.

[Doug Shepard]

A sliding DT to hold the apron on the notched leg would be my first choice but if you just want to keep it flat, a tenoning jig on the TS would probably be the quickest way.

[Peter Quinn]

I would make it a dovetail as Jim suggested, but I would make a quick template from 1/2" mdf (use a piece big enough to hold a router base). To make the template i would use the TS, a miter gauge, bevel the blade 10 degrees or so to set the outer edges, take out the waste with a bandsaw or coping saw or jig saw, clean up the back edge with repeated TS passes. Add a few blocks to the bottom with screws to fit snugly around the legs, voila. Use a 1/2" by 1" top bearing router bit, take out the first 1/2" in light passes increasing the depth roughly 1/8" per pass. Clean up the corners using the template as a guide with a chisel, pull the template, route the last 1/2" of depth using the first 1/2" as your new bearing surface. Just like mortising a hinge on a door with a router but a little deeper and shaped like a dove's tail!

It would be fine by hand if you are good with a chisel and a back saw, have both in very sharp working order and have the time. I'd guess I could do all four including making the guide in the time I could do one or two with a chisel.

To cut the pins on the rails i would use a TS, panel sled with a stiff fence and a handsaw or TS with sled to cut the shoulders. Same bevel angle on the TS used to make the template, same height. Hey, your set up already!:D

[Brent Leonard]

I would notch in using sharp hand tools...and make it a dovetail for added strength. This is the traditional method and frankly doesn't take any more time than trying to do it with power tools when you consider setup time and the mental energy expended to figure out the best (and safest) setup... ;)

exactly.

I make this joint alot and can do it very quickly and easily with hand tools and I'm a "prefer power" kinda guy at that.
For this type of joinery, I cut a dovetail into the end of my board first (using the bandsaw), then trace the tail onto the top of your leg, use a 10" gent saw (my saw of choice, but any backsaw will work) to cut a half blind dovetail socket (?pin?) into the leg. Chisel out the socket. Your essentially making a half blind DT.
If your new to hand cut dovetails, I suggest cutting your socket a little small. then use a razor sharp chisel to get it just right. It's easier to take a little more material off than to try to fix a loose joint! I'm not a DT expert, but that is the way i do it.

loose tenons or dowels are common and work equally well, IMO.

[Jim Kountz]

I would notch in using sharp hand tools...and make it a dovetail for added strength. This is the traditional method and frankly doesn't take any more time than trying to do it with power tools when you consider setup time and the mental energy expended to figure out the best (and safest) setup... ;)

Ditto on the dovetail. I just did this on a lowboy and it wasnt hard at all after a few practice runs. Just get some scrap and try a couple. I used the old Tage Frid method of dovetailing where you dont even try to cut on the line, staying away from it a good 1/32 or so then pairing away sideways with a good sharp chisel. When done right its very satisfying to feel the parts go together with a gentle push, no mallet used here. You can crack the leg open if you try to force it.