how would you repair this carved leg? (pics)

[Lynn Kasdorf]

I have been asked to do my best to repair this leg on a loveseat. It appears to be mahogany.

It is a pretty weak design. It looks like the wood began cracking right at the end of the dowel that runs up the middle and just crumbled.

I have all the pieces:
http://onehorsetownband.com/forsale/repair/repair1.jpg
http://onehorsetownband.com/forsale/repair/repair2.jpg
http://onehorsetownband.com/forsale/repair/repair3.jpg
http://onehorsetownband.com/forsale/repair/repair4.jpg

It should look like this:
http://onehorsetownband.com/forsale/repair/repair_good.jpg

So- what kind of glue? Epoxy? Gorilla Polyurethane? I think I could clamp it with that stretchy clear film that comes in a roll.

Then, I'm thinking maybe I should splint it by drilling some 3/16" or 1/4" holes and driving in oak dowels.

There will be some finessing of the finish over the repairs after all this.

Do you think this is doable? And likely to hold much weight again?

(I really hate designs like this...)

[David DeCristoforo]

I would use "plain old Titebond" but I would think you would want a much longer pin. Can you get the dowel out and drill the ends deeper? Also, you will want more clamping pressure that you will get from plastic film wrap. I would re-glue in stages with clamps and cauls which you will undoubtedly need to make especially for the occasion.

[Jason Rutkowski]

The first thing that comes to my mind is to remove what left of that leg and the other 3 good legs , and replace them with 4 new ones of a different design. I say different design because u say those are weak design.

[Lynn Kasdorf]

My thinking was to glue it together, then drill straight up from the foot about 6" or maybe more (I have some 12" bits). I could start with 1/8" then bring it up to 1/4" or maybe 3/8".

My only concern about glueing up in stages is keeping everything perfectly aligned. If it all goes together at once (3 or 4 pieces) then I can be sure it will all fit together optimally.

My thinking about using epoxy is that in case I cannot get the pieces to all fit together perfectly and there are voids. Normal PVA wood glue has no strength if there is much of a gap, of course. But I agree, if I have a good side grain, wood to wood contact, then titlebond should work fine.

I gave the lady an estimate of $125 for this repair. I hope I'm not cheating myself.

[Frank Drew]

Lynn,

I've never specialized in repair work, but my concern with using an ordinary wood glue for this repair is that most of them don't have much strength across a relatively thick glue line, and with the kind of damage you have here that might be the best you can achieve. So I'd be inclined to use epoxy and tell the owners that you won't be able to guarantee the future of the leg.

I agree with you about the design.

[Lynn Kasdorf]

The first thing that comes to my mind is to remove what left of that leg and the other 3 good legs , and replace them with 4 new ones of a different design. I say different design because u say those are weak design.

Well, they are a structurally weak design. And, I have never cared for overly ornate stuff like this. But this lady does. Her house has fringes and tassles and gilded rope carvings dripping off of every possible surface. Gives me the heebie jeebies...

Yeah, I'm sure she would love it if I gave it back to her with some nice square oak legs ;)

[Bruce Page]

Lynn, I’m no repair expert either, but I seriously question whether that leg CAN be fully functional again. Maybe make the best cosmetic repair that you can and give her a little placard that says “Do Not Sit”.

[Mike Henderson]

I'd re-make the leg. The problem would be getting it finished to match but there are finishers out there that can match anything.

If you can't get the leg detached from the seat rails, I'd cut it off right below the rails and dowel in a new piece at that point. It's bigger up there so you'd have more doweling room.

Mike

[PS - that dowel is probably from an earlier repair. I doubt if they were originally made that way.]

[george wilson]

You are going to pay more than you are getting to get the leg refinished. You could use latex surgical tubing wrapped around the leg for quite a good clamp across the surfaces. I'd try gluing up the leg,then drilling up through the bottom for as large a dowel rod as it can take. Maybe broomstick size if possible. You look down on the drill from the top. Get someone with a good eye to look at it sideways to correct it from that view while you drill.

[Dave Novak]

I'd re-make the leg. The problem would be getting it finished to match but there are finishers out there that can match anything.

If you can't get the leg detached from the seat rails, I'd cut it off right below the rails and dowel in a new piece at that point. It's bigger up there so you'd have more doweling room.

Mike

[PS - that dowel is probably from an earlier repair. I doubt if they were originally made that way.]

I'm with Mike om this one, but I'd plan to refinish the whole chair. In the interest of complete honesty, I don't have the skills or tools to re-make the leg, but if I could ....

[David G Baker]

If you do re-glue the leg, Ron Hazelton TV show had an idea of cutting up a bicycle inner tube and wrapping it around the joint and stretching it tighter as you wrap the joint then clamp the end of the wrap to keep it from unwinding.

[Dan Friedrichs]

I like George's idea. Glue, surgical tube clamp, and then realizing that such a fix won't bear any load, drill up through the leg, way past the repair, and insert a dowel. It doesn't need to be broomstick-sized, but as long as it was bearing the weight, you'd be fine.

[Scott Rollins]

I've done this type of repair before. They are not fun. I use T-88 Epoxy. It has a long set time and good gap filling properties. It dries clear also. You will get exopy all over the ourside surfaces, so plan on refinishing that leg. Do not make the mistake of squeazing out all the epoxy!! I made that mistake a time or two till I figured out what was going wrong.:confused: The rubber tubing and saran wrap are good bets as others have said. On the little bits and pieces that are missing some mouldable epoxy wood filler (not the paste) and plan on shaping for a while. $125 is not a bad price, but you will have more than 4 hours in it. Also you can hide 23 ga brads under a little epoxy filler (but dont use anything bigger) and they add quite a bit of support while/after the epxoy dries.

[Mike Mathieu]

Hi Lynn
I specialize in this type of restoration /repair so I know it can be done effectively. First thing to do is remove the existing dowel and re-drill the holes deeper. Make a new square dowel and dry fit all of the pieces to make sure that it all goes together properly. Using a square dowel allows the epoxy to adhere deeper into the wood for a better bond.If there are cracks in other parts that have not completely broken apart they should be separated and repaired also. All old glue needs to be removed to ensure that no gaps remain. I use a rotary tool with different bits to do this. Use a 2 part epoxy with a 1 hour set time. Wrap in plastic wrap to contain the epoxy and clamp as needed until the epoxy sets.