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Kirk Poore
04-06-2009, 12:42 PM
This weekend I was able to finish the restoration of a 1963 Powermatic 30 belt/disk sander. I'd bought this machine out of a warehouse in St Louis just about a year ago, and while waiting for the time to fix it had accumulated a (newer) motor and some other missing parts. I finally had time and warm enough weather to start on it a couple weeks ago. Here's the original condition:

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/4849/pm3002rr7.jpg

It had moderate surface rust, really really bad bearings, a motor that hummed instead of turned, a belt cover mostly cut through, and of course the oddball (for 1963) gray paint job. But overall the machine seemed sound, and I was glad to get it for $250.

Disassembly wasn't too hard, though I did have to (or "get to") use a friend's Greenerd #15 press, which has a 12 ton capacity and can handle items up to 36" wide (like a big bandsaw wheel). This was needed because the bearings were really stuck in the belt casting. I had the belt cover welded at the local lawn mower service shop. Here's the "before":
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/6593/cover1h.jpg

I got rid of the homemade dust port, of course.

The old motor was 3/4 hp, and I'd bought a newer (1982) Dayton 1hp to replace it thinking that the old one was badly messed up. Turns out it still ran when I got it out of the machine, but I decided to use the Dayton anyway, after putting in new bearings and repainting it:
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/5373/orphan.jpg

Both were 56 frame motors so the pulley fit, but the mount was different and I had to drill bolt holes.

I used an angle grinder with the wire cup wheel to get rid of the sander's paint. The gray had been painted over the original pea green. However, this may have been a factory repaint, for two reasons. First, this was a 1963 machine and the machinery dealer tag address had no zip code, indicating a 1960's date. But both the dealer tag and the Powermatic belt guard decal were applied over the gray paint. Unless PM provided decals to dealers, this had to be an original paint job.

After the cleanup, I again used the Greenerd to press the bearings back in. Then on to the paint job. I used my HVLP gun (American Turbine Co), but something was't quite right with the first coat--got a lot of "spitting", which resulted in a rough surface on the sheetmetal cabinet. However, it looked a lot like a faux cast iron surface, so I just left it. After cleaning the gun thoroughly, the second coat went on smoother and evened out some of the roughness. I think it looks fine.

Friday night I started the main reassembly, with the motor and switch. Everything went fine, though the wiring was kind of tight in the Arrow-Hart switch. Testing revealed the switch didn't want to shut off, so I cleaned the contacts and it got a little better. It may need a new spring, though it works now. I started on the main casting this morning. Everything went together well. Paint touch up and gluing down the graphite cloth on the platen followed assembly. The sanding belt pulleys were still crowned fine (no W profile), and the belt tracks well. I can't see how the goobers cut through the belt cover.

Disk side:
http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/9160/front1z.jpg

Switch & cord side:
http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/9195/rightx.jpg

Belt side:
http://img50.imageshack.us/img50/2438/back2.jpg

With belt upright:
http://img50.imageshack.us/img50/9328/back4.jpg

I do have a second table, as shown in the last picture, but I need to build a trunnion bracket replacement to use it. I don't anticipate much angled sanding, so I'll go with a simple wood support at 90 degrees.

I still need to mate the two dust collection ports together and put a 4"-to-2-1/2" reducer on it. But using the shop vac for now, even the small dust ports work plenty well. Restoration cost was about $250, giving me $500 out of pocket with maybe 20 hours or so spent.

I have a good feeling that this sander hasn't seen even middle age yet.

Kirk

Bill Blackburn
04-06-2009, 12:52 PM
Superb restore Kirk!

Bet it's just a teenager at that and will be around 50 years past my last breathe. Nice work

Bruce Page
04-06-2009, 12:56 PM
Awesom restore! The PM makes my `80's Delta look like a toy.
What size is the belt and disk?

Kirk Poore
04-06-2009, 1:13 PM
Awesom restore! The PM makes my `80's Delta look like a toy.
What size is the belt and disk?

It's a 12" disk and 6x48" belt. If your Delta is the same size, I'd bet the quality is similar unless they'd already replaced most of the cast iron with sheet metal and plastic by that point.

I've never used a stationary sander before, and this moves an amazing amount of wood when compared to my Porter-Cable hand-held belt sander. The belt and disk are both 80 grit for now.

Kirk

Bruce Page
04-06-2009, 2:27 PM
Kirk, that’s the same size as my Delta but the PM looks much more substantial.
Here’s a link:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=13017

Kirk Poore
04-06-2009, 2:55 PM
Bruce, I have a 70's era Delta LD shaper with a sheet metal base, and the PM sheet metal is thicker, so that's one possible difference. The PM casting seem to be heavier too, especially the disk guard. The motor is on a shelf, not hanging off a partition, and the base is clearly larger. Mine is almost silent without a sanding belt. Weight is probably 200-250 lbs. No ballast needed.:)

Nice job on the dust port on yours. My dust ports are only 2" OD, and I used 1-1/2" flexible hot tub hose for the internal pipe. I'm hoping the smooth interior will make up for the loss of diameter.

I'm going to need a mobile base like yours. Mine has tabs sticking out of the cabinet, though, which will make a good fit tougher.

Nice work on your machine. I hope it still looks that good.:)

Kirk

Chris Padilla
04-06-2009, 2:55 PM
Very cool!! I honestly think I could enjoy restoring old 'arn as much as building things with the old 'arn! Very nice job, Kirk.

Chris Padilla
04-06-2009, 2:58 PM
Nice job on the dust port on yours. My dust ports are only 2" OD, and I used 1-1/2" flexible hot tub hose for the internal pipe. I'm hoping the smooth interior will make up for the loss of diameter.
Kirk

Actually, I really doubt that it will, Kirk. Losing out on cross-sectional area is usually very detrimental to dust collection. However, if you're using a typical shop vac, it might be okay. With the use of cyclones and bag collectors, air volume is everything and that usually means larger and larger hoses. What is your vacuum source? :)

Kirk Poore
04-06-2009, 3:14 PM
Actually, I really doubt that it will, Kirk. Losing out on cross-sectional area is usually very detrimental to dust collection. However, if you're using a typical shop vac, it might be okay. With the use of cyclones and bag collectors, air volume is everything and that usually means larger and larger hoses. What is your vacuum source? :)

Shop vac at the moment, 1-1/2 hp Delta dust collector later when I move it into the basement. The restricted area is 18" long at the moment. I couldn't find any 2" flexible hose, which is the largest that will fit through the cabinet without cutting. And all larger hoses had a corrugated interior too. If this doesn't work well enough, I'll try 2" PVC with flexible connectors. There is also open space between the main casting and the base (behind and around the disk) that can be closed off. I've thought of doing this to keep the dust from having a path to the motor. The main casting was packed with sawdust when I got the machine, so it can certainly get in there.

Kirk

Roy Wall
04-06-2009, 6:26 PM
Kirk -

Looks really good.......

I'm especially proud of your restraint with just two RED stripes -- just the perfect touch!

Kirk Poore
04-06-2009, 6:52 PM
Kirk -

Looks really good.......

I'm especially proud of your restraint with just two RED stripes -- just the perfect touch!

Hey Roy--

I put the Bully Pale Ale on there just for you.:)

Kirk

Bob Aquino
04-07-2009, 4:46 PM
Very cool!! I honestly think I could enjoy restoring old 'arn as much as building things with the old 'arn! Very nice job, Kirk.


Now you are beginning to understand the power of the dark side.;)

Bob Aquino
04-07-2009, 4:53 PM
Kirk, that’s the same size as my Delta but the PM looks much more substantial.
Here’s a link:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=13017

I redid a 30A and my brother has a Delta from about the same vintage and I think they are about equal in terms of quality and construction. They look different but in the end, they both perform well. The delta uses a smaller drum for the idler where the pmatic uses two equal size drums. And I have see pictures where both will have grooves cut in them from misaligned sanding belts that were allowed to run unchecked. I think the comparison is similar to a Uni and a 66, both are fine saws, both will work well, some folks will always prefer one brand over another.