water proof finish

[Dan Hanson]

I have a cherry stand built for an aquarium stand. It will have saltwater spilt on it from time to time and I want to make sure it looks like new years down the road. Also dont know if it makes a difference but I want to finish the inside also as there will be a sump in it with more possible spillage. My last one was oak finished with laquer and it didnt hold up that great. So this time I was thinking of going with epoxy or spar urethane what do you guys thing would be the best and also easiest to apply. I used sikkens cetol for my front door but noticed the drips on the side of the can were really amber and want to stay as clear as possible for the cherry
Thanks for your time
Dan

[scott tucker]

http://www.mlcampbell.com

This is what we use in our shop. It withstands moisture great. It is a conversion varnish and will stay clear.

[Dan Hanson]

which particular product, there seems to be a few on that website? also what does conversion varnish mean compared to any other, is it like a urethane or epoxy
Thanks
Dan

[Dan Hanson]

Finally heard back from buddy who does sailboats I asked about epoxy and , he said he would do a spar urethane, what do you guys think bout that, does it dry pretty clear? Its not like this will be underwater, but will get small amounts time to time that will be wiped off

[Dan Hanson]

Anybody? I see tons of views but no replys?
Someone on another (not woodworking) forum said to use
boiled linseed oil and laquer mixed 50/50, my previous laquered one without linseed oil didnt hold up well is this better?

[Jim Becker]

In all honesty, any decent finish is going to be about the same level of protection as any other in this respect. There is nothing "special" about "spar varnish" outside of it being very soft so it can bend...since that's what spars do. I'd probably use something like Behlen's RockHard for an oil based varnish or just spray the Target Coatings acrylic finish that I normally use for most projects. But then again, the corrosive properties of the salt water might be better served by an epoxy based finish. West Systems is a good source.

BLO and lacquer are not going to mix very well, BTW...very dissimilar products chemically.

[Tony Bilello]

Other than Minwax spar varnish, I havent heard of any others. Is there a particular type of varnish that is referrred to as 'spar varnish'? Most marine products I use just refer to teir product as 'varnish'.
I have worked on boats for more years than I care to remember and all I can say is that Minwax Spar Varnish is by far the worse performing marine varnish I have ever used. It is also by far the least expensive.

[Jim Becker]

Yea, Minwax "spar varnish", according to folks who post here and know boats, is about the bottom of the barrel--a marketing name, for sure. The "good stuff" is very expensive and only available through marine supply houses. (Pettite's, Ephanes, etc) In general a "spar" varnish will be a long-oil varnish that remains flexible, but that name may not be on the container. Interestingly, a lot of folks think that something called "spar varnish" is going to be more durable for something like a table, but because it's soft (to be flexible) quite the opposite may be true.

[Dan Hanson]

going to a boating store to check out West systems and anything else. Any pointers on working with the epoxy? Should I use disposable foam brushes? Do i have to worry about it running bad or is it no worse than something like poly, I could tip it on its side and do one side at a time. Also do you thin the first coat out to penetrate, and do you have to sand inbetween or is there usually open time to recoat? What do you think the minimum # of coats would be?
Thanks
Dan

[Greg Cuetara]

Dan,
I would go to the west system website. Where are you located? It might give us a better idea of where you can go. There is a great store up here in Maine to pick up marine products at a 'reasonable' price. There are many books by the gougan (sp.) bros. about epoxy and fiberglass on boats. Everything will have to be recoated and touched up if it is in contact with water. It might be easier to keep things dry and just use a regular finish.

Greg

[Ryan Sparreboom]

Dan, I gotta be honest, I wouldn't bother with any fancy spar varnishes or complex epoxy finishing systems. You simply don't need 'em.
I just finished an aquarium stand for my 180 gallon tank, out of cherry and birch ply. For the finish on the outside, I used Danish oil. It looks fantastic and I was quite suprised how it repels the moisture of any spilled water. I've had no problems at all, even when I had a minor leak from the top trim of the tank. A fair amount of moisture got on the cherry trim and no problems at all.
On the inside of the cabinet, where my 40 gallon sump is, I painted it white with Tremclad. It's great for wood and is very very moisture and wear resistant. I have a tight fitting lid on my sump, and humidity is noticeable in the cabinet, but not a problem. The cabinet doors are solid cherry frame and veneered walnut panel, and finished with Danish oil on the inside as well.
Granted, my tank is fresh water (African cichlids), but I doubt you'd have any more problem with salt water. You may get some staining if you don't wipe up your spills right away.
The real key is the contruction of the stand. Make sure that any areas where water could get in between parts, are well glued. On the inside of the cabinet you could run a bead of silicone in the corners to prevent water from getting between the joints.
Here's a few pics of mine.
Hope this helps.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj158/Boomr99/P1020702.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj158/Boomr99/P1020703.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj158/Boomr99/P1020678.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj158/Boomr99/407c3717.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj158/Boomr99/P1020354.jpg

Ryan

[Rob Hermann]

I agree with Ryan. My stand and hood for my 240 gallon reef are both oak, made to match the kitchen cabinets and are just done with urethane. They are going on five or six years now and I have had no problems. Wipe it and occasionally spray some pledge or something on it and it looks like new again. Don't sweat it.

115303

[Dan Hanson]

I agree with Ryan. My stand and hood for my 240 gallon reef are both oak, made to match the kitchen cabinets and are just done with urethane. They are going on five or six years now and I have had no problems. Wipe it and occasionally spray some pledge or something on it and it looks like new again. Don't sweat it.

115303
are those birch floors?
Cool, I was thinking about a 2 part urethane, what are the better brands of urethane's out there both single and 2 part?

[Rob Hermann]

No,not birch, oak. Sanding sealer and urethane over it. Everything in the kitchen and living room is either golden oak or natural oak. All my stuff is finished with Minwax Polyurethane, from the borg. No problems with any of it, even the floor. I have never used a two-part, I'm lazy!

[Ryan Sparreboom]

Here's a better pic of the whole set-up, now that it's done.

K.I.S.S. Forget the 2 part finishes and keep it simple. It'll last you just fine. Normal Poly was originally made for floors, it'll hold up to some moisture.

Ryan

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj158/Boomr99/Woodworking%20Projects/P1030369.jpg