Perfect holes

[Bob Davis]

Hi all,
A customer has asked for us to supply 100 plates of sublimated stainless steel plates - 0.6mm thick and 60 x 25mm (around .025 x 2.4 x 1 inch) with a 2mm (0.08 inch) holes on either side.
The plates and the subbing are no problem, but the holes are proving difficult. Drilling the holes always leaves a slight protrusion on the bottom side. This doesn't really affect their usage, but it means they can't be bundled together as the sharp edge on the bottom of the hole causes scratches to other plates, and it also makes them appear to be a little less than the immaculate product we try to produce.
Is there a better way to make these holes, or a drilling process that will prevent the rough bottom edge?

Thanks in anticipation,

Bob

[Andy Bardowell]

Not knowing much on the subject Bob this suggestion may not be of use but try to see if you can job that part out to a metal working shop to have the holes punched on a press, of course it would have to fit into te costing. The holes may also be too small for punching.

Perhaps you can gang them up and drill them all at once with each backing each other there should be minimum bur except for the last one.

[Randy Walker]

Hi Bob
First off good quality sharp drill bits go a long way to reducing burs. Next clamping your work to a solid surface usualy keeps a bur from forming, and if that isn't good enough there are several types of de-buring tools available that will leave a very nice clean edge. I belive Grizzly offers a good selection.

Hope that helps.http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/icons/icon10.gif

[kevin leasure]

I will offer what help i can here, i am a machinist by trade so metal is kind of my thing. first off the sharper the bit the better, second, clamp it as securelyas possible to something you can drill into, like a wood block. third run the drill as slow as possible, we normally run a max of 500 rpms, and lots of lube, high quality lube, i recommend Anchor lube, its a green paste lube that is a soap base and super easy cleanup, should be able to get it form fastenal or the such. and lastly a good sharp countersink will clean up whatever small burr is left, but stainless is the butthole of all metals. when i am quoting a job in our shop for machining stainless, i will quote it as regular cold rolled steel and then triple the price. good luck with this one, it could be tough. let me know if there is any other help i can offer.

[Bob Davis]

Thanks for that guys. The job is turning into a bit of a pig. Then again, if it was easy everybody would be doing it.
I've had a thought. When I used a hardwood as a backing there was less burr than using pine. Would a metal backing (like brass) reduce it further?

Thanks again,

Bob

[Rodne Gold]

Turn the plates around and use a countersinking bit to just remove the burrs , shouldnt take longer than 20-30 secs a plate,

[Bill Jermyn]

I recently had a similar request for 2" stainless round tags with a 1/8" hole, 24ga. I got a decent price from a local machine shop who could cut them with a laser. I haven't got the order yet, so I can't vouch for the quality, but it may be a possibility for you.

[Joe Pelonio]

Perhaps you can gang them up and drill them all at once with each backing each other there should be minimum bur except for the last one.
This is what I do with multiple aluminum signs, the as Rodne said I use a larger bit as a countersink to clean up the bottom one. With such small pieces, though, it would be hard to clamp them, and a punch would be the more practical option.

[kevin leasure]

yes bob that would work great, i noramlly reccomend an aluminum "lamb" when my gues ask me what to back stainless with, its cheap and wont eat your drill bit up. and like i said, get a good lube and it will make all the difference in the world.

[AL Ursich]

Bob,

I am into sublimation too. Is your Stainless coated to accept the Text or image? I have only done the Mug with poor results.

I was like the others thinking countersink bit on the back side too.

I think Laser Cut and cutting the holes would be a time saver. I wish the suppliers would offer them in many sizes with holes.

I must have mentioned this before as I see you are in Perth. I visited Geraldton (1978) and Brumby (1989) , WA in my Navy years. Wonderful place. Get CRS and can't remember who I mentioned about the Navy Stuff...:)

AL:D

[Bob Davis]

Thanks to everyone who gave my problem some thought.
The final outcome was that I attached transfer tape to the front, taped each batch of 12 plates to a piece of 1.2mm brass, centre-punched the marked holes through the transparent application tape and then drilled all the way through. Worked pretty well, but some of the 2mm holes still needed a clean-up from the back with a 3mm drill bit in a cordless drill.
Mission accomplished, invoice written, still have all my fingers!

[Dave Johnson29]

still have all my fingers!


:) Reminds me of a time I had a friend's 16 YO Son com do some work with me for "work experience." First day the Father arrived with Son in tow and all the safety equipment known to man. I OK'd everything except the gloves but Father was nervous. I warned him of the dangers of spinning machinery, spinning metal and gloves.

Around 3:00pm that day Father called to see what time to pick up Son, I said, "hang on let me get Billy-9-fingers for you." Deathly silence... :D:D:D:D

[Joe Pelonio]

Mission accomplished, invoice written, still have all my fingers!
Hopefully soon you'll have a check!

[Bill Cunningham]

Buy a hand held metal hole punch.. When I was a kid, I used my fathers to punch a whole bunch of holes in my mothers stainless dinner knives.. It made a big impression on my mother, and another one on my father, but the impression he left in my butt was not forgotten for a long time..
See. the punches are so easy to use and handle even a kid can do it..:rolleyes:
They will usually reach into a plate by .75 to a inch from the edge, and are tough enough to punch a 1/8" hole in a dinner knife by a child:D