Fixing baltic birch plywood splintering

[Drew Eckhardt]

My second project defect is the side of one piece where I got some splintering (I've since learned that a little dampness eliminates that) and jointed it for fit with a rabetting bit (easier to trim the solid wood edge to length).

Do I fill it with something clear (epoxy?)? Use commercial wood putty? Ignore it?

The finish here is going to be super blonde shellac under satin nitrocellulose lacquer.

[glenn bradley]

On pretty much any ply that I want a clean cut on I score the line with a razor. It doesn't have to be deep, just break the top fibers so they don't tear. Since your finish will be basically clear, any filler will show. I would test various fillers on some scrap and see what works for you.

[Howard Acheson]

No matter what you use as a filler, those marks will show.

To eliminate that in the future, always have the "money" side of plywood facing up on a tablesaw--facing down on a RAS. It's only the bottom of plywood that will splinter. Also, a new ZCI will keep it from splintering. Finally, if all else fails, use an X-acto knife and lightly score the cut line.

[Drew Eckhardt]

No matter what you use as a filler, those marks will show.

To eliminate that in the future, always have the "money" side of plywood facing up on a tablesaw--facing down on a RAS. It's only the bottom of plywood that will splinter. Also, a new ZCI will keep it from splintering. Finally, if all else fails, use an X-acto knife and lightly score the cut line.

In this case, I got splintering on the top surface. Baltic birch is known for doing that, and it could be that my blade is getting dull or started out life sub-optimally- I'll get a new one for the next project.