Joinery help requested

[ed mirzay]

I've decided to use a desk featured in a reader's gallery of Finewoodworking magazine a couple years ago as an inspiration.
One of the key features of the desk I want to incorporate is the joinery between the desktop and the legs...though I can' figure out how he did it!!:confused:
I need to make this joint removable as I am making a corner desk and it wouldn't fit through a door if it couldn't be disassembled.
Any ideas on how to do this? Or other suggestions for this joint? I'd prefer not put a skirt around the desktop as I think it will detract some from the openness in this design.
The inspiration can be seen here:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Gallery/GalleryImage.aspx?id=30415

Thanks so much!

[John Thompson]

I would simply make it a three stage desk.. the two cabinets and the top. In the stretchers on top of the cabinets I would glue in cone headed dowels.. then drill coresponding holes under the top the same way I attach work-bench tops.

The cabinets are placed and the top is simply place down on them with the raised dowel heads meshing with the holes under the top. Gravity should take care of everything else.

Sarge..

[Joel Goodman]

Why not have a few short dowels that register with blind holes in the top -- I assume the weight of the top will keep it on and you're just trying to prevent it sliding.

Sarge -- you seem to have typed faster than I did!

[ed mirzay]

John and Joel,
I'd be afraid of the top wobbling if I didn't have some kind of fastened connection. Also, I failed to mention that as I am making this a corner desk one of the corners won't gave drawers.... I intend to just have a side similar to the side of the drawers with a stretcher tying back to a rear corner leg for some rigidity.

[Tony Bilello]

This is a very old technique and accounts for table top expansion/contraction movement. At the time I built these tables I couldnt locate a source for the metal clips. I later found them in Rockler or Woodcraft, I cant remember which. Anyway, I much prefer the steel ones and a complete set is about 3 bucks - well worth the money. It has a cleaner underside look and more professional looking.

[ed mirzay]

Tony,

I think a modified version of that just might do the trick...The legs and stretchers of my table will meet the top after curving but I think I can make this work and still get a screwdriver to the screws.

Thanks!

[ed mirzay]

I modeled the desk in Sketchup....still not 100% on the attachment
method, as I mentioned I need it to be removable.

I think I'll post these in the design forum as well...get some criticism and advice.

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