Gunstock Project

[Jerry Murray]

This is my first post on Sawmill and after lurking for awhile decided to join. Nice place you all have here!

I am in the process of working on some gunstocks. My first project will be removing some of the forend and replacing that with a laminate block of ebony and calif redwood. I'm also going to add to the grip with the same ebony and redwood laminate.

I am also going to start hand checkering. So, now I need to find someone in my area of Maryland that has walnut so I can practice on.

Anyway I know that most of you all are very experienced and although I have tinkered around in the workshop for a few years, hope to learn alot for you guys and gals.

[Kevin Godshall]

What quantity and size of walnut are you looking for to practice on? Would "scrap" work or are you looking for pieces large enough for fitting on a rifle/handgun?

I usually end up with some thicker "scraps", that sometimes find their final home in my woodstove. (Oh, that hurt to write......)

Also, I just had a portable sawmill here at the house to cut logs, and found out he cuts and stocks choice walnut pieces for gunstock work. Let me know if you're interested, could probably hook you up.

[Von Bickley]

Jerry,

Welcome to "The Creek"....... :)

[Joe Kaufman]

Suggest you try hand checkering on a sample piece of the proposed laminated ebony and calif redwood before you go to a lot of trouble fitting the parts. If the checkering is going across both woods, I believe you will have a difficult time because of the radical difference in hardness of the woods. Maybe Kingwood or Blood Wood or another "hardwood" would be a better choice than redwood.

Joe

[Jerry Murray]

Suggest you try hand checkering on a sample piece of the proposed laminated ebony and calif redwood before you go to a lot of trouble fitting the parts. If the checkering is going across both woods, I believe you will have a difficult time because of the radical difference in hardness of the woods. Maybe Kingwood or Blood Wood or another "hardwood" would be a better choice than redwood.

Joe

Thanks Joe, but I'm not going to checker the ebony or redwood. The checkering will be done on the forward hand hold of the walnut5 stock and the pistol grip portion.

[Jerry Murray]

What quantity and size of walnut are you looking for to practice on? Would "scrap" work or are you looking for pieces large enough for fitting on a rifle/handgun?

I usually end up with some thicker "scraps", that sometimes find their final home in my woodstove. (Oh, that hurt to write......)

Also, I just had a portable sawmill here at the house to cut logs, and found out he cuts and stocks choice walnut pieces for gunstock work. Let me know if you're interested, could probably hook you up.

I'm looking for any size walnut that I can clamp down and practice on...probably in the area of 4-10" I will probably have to buy a couple of pieces and checker away. I don't know of any place close to me that sells walnut or any other hard woods in board form, so I might have to order some online.

Oh well...whadda ya gonna do? :D

[george wilson]

Is Hobby Woods in Baltimore,on Eastern Avenue still in business? An excellent source of hardwoods.

[george wilson]

There is a very big difference in the hardness of redwood and ebony. You may not be able to keep the surfaces of the 2 woods flush with each other. The redwood may sand deeper than the ebony. Always use a sanding block,never sandpaper only.

[Jerry Murray]

There is a very big difference in the hardness of redwood and ebony. You may not be able to keep the surfaces of the 2 woods flush with each other. The redwood may sand deeper than the ebony. Always use a sanding block,never sandpaper only.

Thanks George.

Here is a photo of the type of rifle I'm working on, and I'll try to explain what I am attempting.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v610/Jmurman/ruger_1022rb.jpg


Ok, so do you see the barrel band at the front of the rifle? Well I am installing a large diameter barrel, which means that the barrel band will be removed and the barrel channel will be deepened to slightly over 1".

My plan is to remove the fore end from about 3/4" before the barrel band. This is where the stock becomes fairly parallel. I have two blocks of wood coming in. Ebony and Redwood burl, which both types are used to make forend caps. I want to base my lamination with Ebony (about 1/8-1/4 depending on the appearance) next will be the Redwood burl with about 1" to 1 1/2". Again this will depend on it's appearance, and then I'll finish with 1" to 1 1/4" Ebony for the tip. I'll pin them together with 5/16 dowel and JB's weld...trim as best as I can with the saw and them attach to the stock with 3/8" dowel and JB's.

I didn't realize that there was such a difference between the hardness of redwood burl and ebony. So yes a sanding block will definitely be used.

Anyway that's the start of this project. If the fore end goes well, then I'll do something similar to the handgrip.

This photo shows a Birch stock. Mine is older 1974 build and they were made with walnut.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v610/Jmurman/ruger_1022rb.jpg%5B/IMG%5D

[Jerry Murray]

Is Hobby Woods in Baltimore,on Eastern Avenue still in business? An excellent source of hardwoods.

I'll check and thanks.

[Russ Kay]

I play hammered dulcimer, and the soundboard and back of my oldest instrument are made from redwood -- it is so soft you can dent it practically by looking too hard at it. Seriously, a fingernail will make a pretty indelible mark.

[Jeff Willard]

What part of Maryland? If you are near the District, there is a Woodcraft in Rockville. If Va. isn't too much of a trek, Woodcraft also has a store in Springfield, and there is Colonial Hardwoods in Springfield. Colonial maintains an abundant supply of walnut, and they have a scrap bin that they sell out of. I have also heard about a mill in Mechanicsville, but don't know the name, or have any other details.

[Jerry Murray]

What part of Maryland? If you are near the District, there is a Woodcraft in Rockville. If Va. isn't too much of a trek, Woodcraft also has a store in Springfield, and there is Colonial Hardwoods in Springfield. Colonial maintains an abundant supply of walnut, and they have a scrap bin that they sell out of. I have also heard about a mill in Mechanicsville, but don't know the name, or have any other details.

I checked for a Hobby Woods in Baltimore and cannot find any listing, so they are probably out of business. I'll check out the Woodcraft in Rockville.

Maybe I'll see what theyhave for another type of harder wood to go along with the ebony.

Any suggestions on a hard wood that would accent the ebony and go with walnut?

[John Shuk]

I would avoid redwood for a gunstock. It is way too soft in my opinion.

[Jeff Willard]

Any suggestions on a hard wood that would accent the ebony and go with walnut?

Redheart or bloodwood.

[Jerry Murray]

Redheart or bloodwood.

Do you think that Woodcraft would have some of this?

I have every Wednesdays off and maybe I'll make the 50 mile trip down to Rockville.

[Jeff Willard]

Do you think that Woodcraft would have some of this?


I would think so. Neither is particularly rare, and bloodwood is listed in their current catalog. BTW, bubinga might work for you also. Give 'em a call before you make the drive.