Mirror hanging help...

[Martin Shupe]

Yes, the world's slowest woodworker is on the verge of actually finishing a project. No Bill, it is not the candle stand that is going on 3 years. And no, it is not the blanket chest that I still need to finish the base and top on, although that is probably next on the list.

It is the hall mirror from Woodsmith #98. My wife liked it so I am building it for a certain place in the hall so she can look at her hair before she walks out the door. I am closing in on the final details, and I actually assembled my Gripper today, so I could cut 1/4 strips to go around the mirror and shelf. But I digress...

Here's the problem. The plans call for keyhole slot hangars on each side of the mirror, so the mirror can be hung from wall studs. The mirror is quite heavy, as the actual glass is 1/4 inch thick by 18 by 24. So it needs to be hung on the studs, not on the drywall.

The design also includes shaker pegs, and I can see children's coats hanging on them, another reason to make sure it is firmly anchored.

So...here's the problem. The stud's, of course, are in completely the wrong place to allow the mirror to be centered. In fact, there is only one stud that can be used without the mirror being completely off center. That single stud is not quite in the center, either, perhaps an inch or two right of center.

So...here is my proposed solution. What about putting two keyhole hangars vertically in line with the single stud, one on the top rail, and one on the bottom rail? In fact, the bottom rail is wide enough so that I could probably put two in the bottom rail and one on the top rail, for a total of 3.

The trick, of course, would be to make sure the mounting screws are perfectly aligned, not only vertically, but distance wise. I wouldn't want the mirror to be crooked, and I would want the keyhole slots to share the load.

As usual, I tend to analyze things to death. I would appreciate your thoughts on my proposed solution, and any other suggestions you might have.

Thanks,

[Jim Ketron]

I have had do do the same thing it worked fine for me.
Jim

[Jamie Buxton]

You're never going to get the screws exactly the same distance apart as the keyholes in the mirror. Only one screw will be supporting all the weight of the object. The other screw will just be keeping the thing upright. Maybe that isn't too bad if you use a big enough screw, like a lag screw.

Another solution to hanging heavy objects between studs is to fasten a horizontal board on the face of the wall. It gets screwed to studs, and the heavy object hangs from it. If the hanging object is wide enough you can hide the board behind it. If the hanging object is narrow, you can dress the board up to make it look like you intended it to be there all along. Extend it so that it is symmetrical on the mirror, regardless of how long it needs to be to catch the studs. Make it from the same lumber as the mirror, and repeat any detailing you've used.

Another approach is to run wires or aircraft cables straight up to fasteners driven into the top plate inside the wall. This works for pictures and mirrors, but maybe doesn't work for your coat-hanger application.

[Todd Burch]

Martin, the mirror I just finished uses 1/4" glass (mirror) and is 18 1/8" x 26" - just about the same size as yours.

I would not hesitate to use one of those 30lb. or 50lb. white "big screw looking things" sheetrock anchor and put a picture frame wire on the back of the mirror. Matter of fact, that is how I did the mirror I just finished. I used those small wire triangle brackets that screw into wood on the back of the frame too.

Now, that is just for hanging the mirror. If kid's back packs will be hung from it also, you need more support. I would suggest making a matching peg rail and simply mouting it below the mirror and making it long enough (wider than the mirror) to catch two studs.

PICTURES.... HELLO???!!! You know the drill.

Todd

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Martin, would a French cleat work? :confused: And as Todd said "Where's the pics?" :rolleyes: :D

[Bob Hoffmann]

Well Martin, here is the hard way to do it -- cut out a strip of the drywall, and put a 1x4 spanning the studs at the height of the mirror. Then patch the drywall piece back it place. The mirror can then be mounted to the 1x4 through the drywall between the studs.


This is easy if you have the paint to patch the wall -- not so easy with wall paper or with paneling. Good luck.

[Mark Singer]

I think a French cleat would work as long as you can hit at least 2 studs

[Jim Becker]

My first inclination is what Bob suggested...modify the wall. But that's also a bit of a pain, more or less depending on "conditions". You could also cut out a strip of 1/2" plywood to replace a section of drywall. It should span two studs. Once taped and mudded, it should disapear, espcially since it should be ever-so-slightly less thick than the drywall it replaces, letting the mud take up the slack.

Or...you could put a peg rail around the perimeter to hang things from, such as your mirror and other Shaker style objects.

[Bob Hovde]

I think a French cleat would work as long as you can hit at least 2 studs

The cleat, screwed to one stud plus one of Todd's "plastic screw looking things," would probably hold almost anything.

Bob

[Martin Shupe]

If at first you don't succeed...

I used the HP photo software, and it is much easier than the microsoft.

Jim, if this doesn't work, I'll take you up on your offer!! Thanks!!

[Martin Shupe]

No, I didn't get a D70 like I wanted, but we decided it was time to replace the broken video camera so the kids will have movies of themselves as children.

The digital 8 video we got also has a still photo capability, although I have no idea how many pixels, and it took me a while to figure it out, as the instruction booklet is less than ideal.

So...here's the mirror frame.

The French cleat is a great idea, and so far is in the lead. I am worried that if the mirror was bumped, it might be knocked off the wall. It is a heavy mirror, and would have to be bumped pretty hard, but it is in a hallway, and it could happen. Also, unless the cleat were to extend beyond the ends of the mirror, it would only hit a stud in the middle, and a stud on the very right edge.

Option two is to put a keyhole in the middle of the top rail, and one on the edge of the right stile. There would be no support left of center, and the mirror would have to be uncentered on the wall by about an inch or two. It would have to be uncentered in the above scenario as well.

Option three is the dig into the drywall solution. While this is probably the best idea in terms of solid mounting and centering, I am loath to dig up good drywall. Ever since I put my foot through a drywall ceiling as a teenager, drywall and I just have not gotten along.

Hey, I just thought of a new option...do the French cleat, but put blockers on the ends of the cleat on the back of the mirror....that way even if the mirror was bumped, the blockers would prevent it from shifting.

Of course, I still have to put a finish on it, and that will take a few weeks in between work and kids activities. When I get the finish done, and it up on the wall, I'll post another pic of the finished product.