Mike Mathieu
04-02-2009, 9:57 AM
I like to add inlay accent strips on my tables and jewelry boxes ,which was no problem on flat straight pieces using a router table and straight bits. But when I attempted to do inlays on the outside edge of round and oval table tops that presented some serious challenges. I figured that I needed to use a slot cutting bit for the router but the one that I got was only good to make a 3/16” cut 1/2” deep. Most of my inlays are 1/8” thick so I came up with what I call the GROOVY JIG. It was simple enough to make and really takes all of the trial and error out of making grooves on any inside of outside cuts that I need to make. I started out by drilling an offset hole in a 1” dowel to accept the bearing of the slot cutter.Then I made a custom bracket to hold the dowel which then clamps to the router table. By rotating the offset dowel I can now adjust the exposed area of the cutter to the depth that I need.
This photo shows the offset hole in the 1” dowel which accepts the bearing of the slot cutting bit.
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww126/wdkits1/groovyjig003.jpg
This photo shows the jig in place over the bearing of the slot cutter. By rotating the dowel, I am able to set the depth of cut that I need. The dowel acts as the fence for the workpiece.
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww126/wdkits1/groovyjig001-1.jpg
This next photo shows the bracket detail and clamping to the router table.
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww126/wdkits1/groovyjig002.jpg
The next photo shows the workpiece against the fence. Keep the workpiece perpendicular to the bit for uniform depth of cut. Once you make one pass through the cutter,flip the piece over and run it through the bit again to center the cut.
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww126/wdkits1/groovyjig004.jpg
Next photo shows finished 1/8” deep groove centered on the workpiece
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww126/wdkits1/groovyjig007.jpg
I like to make my accent strips fit tight enough that I have to tap them in place. Clamp where needed.
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww126/wdkits1/groovyjig008.jpg
Pieces that I have used the Groovy jig to make inlays.
Marble top hall table—used jig to make accent grooves on legs.
Brazilian cherry with holly and ebony accents.
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww126/wdkits1/woodworks001.jpg
Hall table -Fishtail oak and lacewood.
Used jig to make grooves for inlays on edges of table top.
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww126/wdkits1/Newtables013-2-1.jpg
This photo shows the offset hole in the 1” dowel which accepts the bearing of the slot cutting bit.
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww126/wdkits1/groovyjig003.jpg
This photo shows the jig in place over the bearing of the slot cutter. By rotating the dowel, I am able to set the depth of cut that I need. The dowel acts as the fence for the workpiece.
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww126/wdkits1/groovyjig001-1.jpg
This next photo shows the bracket detail and clamping to the router table.
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww126/wdkits1/groovyjig002.jpg
The next photo shows the workpiece against the fence. Keep the workpiece perpendicular to the bit for uniform depth of cut. Once you make one pass through the cutter,flip the piece over and run it through the bit again to center the cut.
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww126/wdkits1/groovyjig004.jpg
Next photo shows finished 1/8” deep groove centered on the workpiece
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww126/wdkits1/groovyjig007.jpg
I like to make my accent strips fit tight enough that I have to tap them in place. Clamp where needed.
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww126/wdkits1/groovyjig008.jpg
Pieces that I have used the Groovy jig to make inlays.
Marble top hall table—used jig to make accent grooves on legs.
Brazilian cherry with holly and ebony accents.
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww126/wdkits1/woodworks001.jpg
Hall table -Fishtail oak and lacewood.
Used jig to make grooves for inlays on edges of table top.
http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww126/wdkits1/Newtables013-2-1.jpg