Paste or liquid wax for table

[Bill Holmes]

New to the forums here,just a weekend woodworker when I'm not working on the house.I built a harvest/country type dining table table from pine.Before I really researched enough I went ahead and put a coat of Minwax early american stain on but have not put a topcoat on yet.We are trying to somewhat match a Mexican piece in the same room that I have been told is pine as well and probably finished with a danish oil and then a tinted pate wax because there is a buildup of dark wax in the corners and imperfections.Could I top the Minwax stain with Watco neutral danish oil then top with a wax?If I used a tinted wax on top of the oil would it change the color of the wood?I'm also thinking to still use the oil but maybe use dark wax only in small areas then use a clear wax for the rest.Should I use paste or liquid on such a large surface.Sorry I guess I had more than 1 question.Finishing is almost harder than the building!

[Prashun Patel]

If it's a dining table, I personally would use a more durable finish like varnish (alkyd, phenolic, or polyurethane). Some people think poly can look too plastic-y, but it's readily available and is durable.

You can apply wax to any finish as a final coat. I've used automotive wax which is fairly liquidy, and paste wax; I prefer paste wax.

[Bill Holmes]

Thanks for the reply.We wanted to stay away from the poly,we did a test sample on a scrap piece and didn't really like it.

[phil harold]

try some briwax

briwaxwoodcare.com

[Howard Acheson]

Wax does not provide much in the way of protection particularly water and water vapor protection. It must be renewed frequently and periodically should be stripped and completely renewed.

The stain you applied contains some varnish that holds the coloring pigment onto the wood. It also seals the surface of the wood which prevents proper penetration of any type of danish oil treatment. For a kitchen table, particularly one made from a soft wood, you should use an oil based film finish. I would suggest a non-poly varnish like Waterlox Original Gloss or Satin or Behlen's Rockhard. Both will give you a nice, protective finish without the "plastic" look of poly varnish.

Be careful of Briwax. It contain toluene as it's solvent. While it evaporates fairly rapidly, it can be dangerous. It will also damage a newly finished surface. Instead, use BriWax 2000. It has a standard mineral spirit solvent and comes in the same colors as standard Briwax. But, once you apply a film finish, there is no value to a colored wax. It will not significantly change the color of the surface.

[Bill Holmes]

Thanks for the reply Howard.I'll look into those finishes you suggested.As for waxes what about Liberno or Antiquax or Fiddes?We're going for an old beat up look so I figured wax may be the way to go.BTW the table only gets used maybe 2 or 3 a month.

[Bill Holmes]

Just for my own knowledge is it OK to use Danish oil on top of an oil based stain?

[Prashun Patel]

If you're looking for an 'antique' look, the simplest is to sand thru the color randomly around edges and typical wearing areas before you apply a topcoat.

I've used light wax on dark projects before and if yr not fastidious about getting it out of corners, it'll be unsightly. The dark wax, on the otherhand will give that glazed effect if left in the corners. However, it'll remain pretty soft and brittle which means errant fingernails can pick it up.

You should look into waterlox. It's kind of spendy, but it's a phenolic varnish that applies super easy. It will build to a glossy finish, though, so beware if u don't like that. I also occasionally use the BORG aerosol finishes like Deft (a lacquer - now only available @ Ace) or Varathane spray poly. Being thinned, spray poly doesn't build so plasticky.

You CAN apply the Danish oil over the stain. There is a moderate amount of varnish in it, which will offer some protection. However, since it's in a solvent that's compatible with the stain, and since you wipe the Danish Oil on and off, you will likely lift out a lot of the stain. To seal in the color, people brush or spray on a quick coat of dewaxed shellac - which can also redisolve the stain, but less so, since the solvent's alcohol and since you don't wipe off the shellac as u do with D Oil. But after you seal with shellac, there's no point in using D Oil bkz you'll wipe ALL of it off when you try to apply it over shellac

Is that confusing enough? If it were me, I wouldn't use D Oil at this point.

[Bill Holmes]

Thanks for all the info.It starting to make sense to me.What about Tung Oil? TO is basically DO without the varnish,is that correct?One last question,can someone recommend a good book that covers all aspects of finishing please.BTW I did call a few places locally looking for Waterlox but no luck.

[Prashun Patel]

Thanks for all the info.It starting to make sense to me.What about Tung Oil? TO is basically DO without the varnish,is that correct?One last question,can someone recommend a good book that covers all aspects of finishing please.BTW I did call a few places locally looking for Waterlox but no luck.

Not correct. Tung oil is oil and linseed oil are the typical 'oils' used in finishing. They take forever to cure, so they are usually heated or modified with chemical driers that speed the cure. Danish oil is a combo of 'boiled' linseed oil (for softness), resin varnish (for protection), and a petroleum solvent (to make it wipeable and wet). Tung oil FINISH is typically how you buy tung oil and usually denotes a product like DOil with the linseed swapped for tung. But the rub's in the ratios. I've used tung oil finish that dried glossy - which means there's a higher amt of resin vis-a-vis the oil.

A lot of people make their own homebrews of danish oil. The ratios aren't critical; some start at 1:1:1 and modify per the look and feel. The more oil, the more softer the finish, the more varnish, the harder. The more solvent, the thinner the finish.

I really enjoyed Bob Flexner's book: "Understanding Wood Finishing". LOML rolls her eyes every time I pick it up. It'll make you a finishing geek.