Shop photos and dust piping questions

[Donald Hofmann]

Here are my shop pix. I also just got my Oneida 2hp cyclone installed and the pvc piping. :) Those pix are there too.
I am looking for suggestions on how to connect the 6" pvc to my Unisaw, and X5 bandsaw.

Thanks

Donald (Troubleshooter)





http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albus46&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albus46&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php (http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules.php?set_albumName=albus46&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php)

The link above doesn't have http://. See if it works

[Jim Ketron]

links working now! WOW thats a nice shop :eek:
Nice tools too!!
What size pipe did you run? looks like a good job!
Jim

[Todd Franks]

Donald,

What a timely post, just today, I finished permanently connecting my Grizzly to 6" PVC DC piping. This is going to beat moving flex hose around from machine to machine. Anyway, here is what I did.

At the saw, I removed the 4" plastic factory outlet. I cut a 4" x 10" hole in its place using an angle grinder (made me a little ill to do this). Got a right angle 4x10 x 6" dia HVAC register boot. Straight would be better for less resistance, but my layout dictated a right angle. I then cut and attached some small aluminum angle to all four sides of the boot using sheet metal screws. Attached the boot to the saw using sheet metal screws and sealed everything up with aluminum foil duct tape. I also bought a duct crimper tool and crimped the outlet of the boot so the 6" flex hose would slide over the outlet.

At the PVC connection, I used an 8" length of 26 ga. round 6" HVAC snap-lock pipe. If you crimp the end of pipe it will slide inside of a 6" PVC pipe. Again, I also crimped the end the flex hose connected to. Because my connection was right after a 45 fitting, there is a short length of pipe inside the fitting and the snap-lock slides inside the short piece of PVC pipe. I used sheet metal screws to tie the PVC and sheet metal together and again sealed everything with alum foil duct tape.

Hope this was helpful,

Todd

[Michael Ballent]

If you click on the link you will notice 2 (http://http://) whack one of them and you should be good to go :)

[Donald Hofmann]

Todd,

Thanks for the info. I guess I will have to remove the plastic port on my Unisaw and start cutting..........:(

[Mark Singer]

Beautiful shop! Big and organized! Makes you want to build something

[Frank Foley]

Todd,
I have the Shop Fox version of your saw. After cutting your cabinet saw did you see an improvement in dust collection. With the current 4" opening my cabinet fills up with dust and material. I currently have a 1 1/2 HP single stage DC. Just ordered a Oneida 2 HP Commercial. Basically, was it worth cutting your saw???

Frank

[Frank Foley]

Donald,
Did you design how your piping was run or was that the recommendation from Orienda? It looks great. Can't wait for mine to come in this week. Is that Sch 40 PVC?

Frank

[Donald Hofmann]

I sent Oneida a drawing of what I wanted and they sent me back their plan. Their drawing used ducts of different diameters (not all 6") and metal fittings that I couldn't find in pvc, so I made up my own plan. Oneida wanted $1600 for the pipe and fittings. So far with pvc, I have spent $500.00 (with blast gates, flex hose, and dust hoods still to come). I used 6" S&D pipe and SDR35 fittings. Since I work alone, I used my John Deere and front end loader to lift the Oneida blower and motor up to it's bracket.

I bought Oneida because I trust their reputation. I am known for being frugal, but will pay the price if the quality is their (like my John Deeres).
One advantage of using Oneida is that they helped me select a cyclone that was large enough for my shop and how I wanted the pipe configured.
I didn't want to buy one too small nor too large (more $$). This 2hp commercial should handle anything that I need and allow me to run with two blast gates open, if a friend comes over.
I didn't want runs across all across the shop because everyone in a while I have to bring one of my tractors into this shop to work on it. That's the purpose of the doors on both sides. I just wheel the tools to the side, and I have an air conditioned or heated place to work in. Here in Texas it gets over 100 in the summer and into the teens in the winter. I can take it for a few hours but not for a job that will take several days.That is why you see the runs follow the walls.

Donald

[Greg Griswold]

Donald,

I am always complaining that I have to spend an hour moving things everytime I want to do something. Then next operation, and another hour of moving "stuff" out of the way.

It sure would be nice to have a shop like yours, but I would get lost in there.

Real nice shop.

Greg

[Todd Franks]

Frank,

I don't know if it improved yet, I just finished the rework yesterday and have only ripped a short piece of poplar so far. I have a 2hp Jet canister. I was using a 10ft piece of 6" flex with 6" to 4" HVAC metal reducer at the end of the flex that would slip on over the factory plaster adapter. I did have problems with dust accumulating in the bottom and would occasionally have use the shop vac to clean it out.

I was going to use a round 6" HVAC takeoff, but because I have a LT Grizzly, the motor cover gets in the way. I couldn't have anything taller than about 4", thus the 4x10 register boot.

If I get a chance, I might be using the TS some more today. I'll report back later whether there was an improvement once I have more run time.

-Todd

Update:

I ran some more poplar through my TS today, and was a little disappointed by the results of my DC work. I would say I had a slight improvement over the stock 4" takeoff. As part of my rework, I also added in a homemade overarm guard with DC that probably robs a little CFM from the bottom. I still don't regret hacking away at my cabinet however. I do regret buying the 2HP Jet canister, I should have got the 3HP.

[Jim Becker]

II didn't want runs across all across the shop because everyone in a while I have to bring one of my tractors into this shop to work on it...That is why you see the runs follow the walls.
When you have a situation like yours, it does make sense to use a perimeter design--you have functional needs for the space that preclude an overhead main, but for most folks, it's important to remember that this is the least efficient routing for dust collection duct. Perimeter designs generally use a lot more duct work, which not only decreases efficiency, but also increases cost. Onieda's free downloadable duct work design guide is a great reference on this aspect for folks considering permanent duct work, whether you are using their metal design or "rolling your own" using PVC.

[Bob Hovde]

Todd,

Try super-sealing the TS cabinet. Close off every hole that you don't use regularly. Close the ones you use with a moveable piece of hardboard/plywood. When you're at the low-pressure end of the line, every little bit helps a lot.

Bob

[Jim Becker]

Try super-sealing the TS cabinet. Close off every hole that you don't use regularly. Close the ones you use with a moveable piece of hardboard/plywood. When you're at the low-pressure end of the line, every little bit helps a lot.
You must leave enough opening to provide at least the same area as your duct work in order to get air flow. Dust collection depends upon moving air, not "suction" (pressure). (This is different than how a shop vac works) If you use a zero-clearance insert, know that this restricts some air flow and needs to be compensated for also.

[Tom LaRussa]

HOLY COW THAT'S A BEAUTIFUL SHOP!!!!!! :eek: