Setting the record straight, Freud &Triton Routers

[Mike OMelia]

I have spent a number of days trying to understand Freud and Triton Routers. I started off wanting an "economical" router, and most assuredly, the Freud 1700 (on sale for $99 at WC) fits the bill. But it is being discontinued. In all fairness, it has a 5 year warranty, just like its bigger brother, the 3000. Oddly, Freud has two 3.25 HP routers now, and the Avanti version has only a 1 year warranty. The Avanti, however, is not ideal for tables since most operations must be performed under the table. So, Freud appears to have nothing for now in the 2.25 HP range (and price point).

Triton offers 2 routers, one is 2.25 HP and the other is 3.25 HP. I found a website where they are priced the same ($209)??. I got scared off when I heard rumors of bankruptcy. But lots of emails later, I feel confident again. Also, I had mentioned earlier that the Triton warranty was for one year. That was incorrect. It is 3 years.

Both the Frued 3000 and Triton 3.25 are very good table routers (above table everything) and have good warranties. Freud's is longer, but their price point is quite higher ($349).

[Thomas S Stockton]

I personally don't see a problem with buying a router that is being discontinued especially if you can save a bunch of money. The truth is Freud is going to stand behind it and if you buy a newer model by the time it breaks (IF it does)it will probably be discontinued also.
I make a living building furniture and have never had a router break under warranty and except for brushes and and an occasional beraing replacement they are pretty rock solid tools.
If your getting into the $300 dollar range I really like my big Milwaukee router it does have above the table height adjust but I never use it I find that I just pull the router and plate out of the table because it puts it at a good height to see and adjust easily.
Tom

[Tom Henderson2]

I'm sure you are aware that Freud was recently bought by Bosch.

So many have spectulated that the Freud routers will disappear or be re-branded as Bosch. And Bosch bits may probably disappear, or maybe rebranded as Freud.

There has been so much consolodation and change in the tool biz over the last few years that it is hard to tell the players without a program.

Bottom line is to buy tools that are at the price/quality points that you need. Next year things will likely be different.

-Tom in Ventura

[Dave Sweeney]

I'm sure you are aware that Freud was recently bought by Bosch.

So many have spectulated that the Freud routers will disappear or be re-branded as Bosch. And Bosch bits may probably disappear, or maybe rebranded as Freud.

It's my understanding that Freud didn't sell their line of power tools but only the blades, bits, knives, etc. portion of their business. The line of Freud power tools will still be maintained as a separate company owned by the current Freud owners.

[Andy Sowers]

Mike,

You may want to review this (and similar threads)...

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=98157&highlight=triton

[Mike OMelia]

It's my understanding that Freud didn't sell their line of power tools but only the blades, bits, knives, etc. portion of their business. The line of Freud power tools will still be maintained as a separate company owned by the current Freud owners.

This is interesting. I was speaking with a customer rep at Freud. they told me that the Avanti line of bits was going away. He did not clear that up with respect to the power tools.

Mike

[Mike OMelia]

Mike,

You may want to review this (and similar threads)...

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=98157&highlight=triton


Yes, I know... that is what got this started. In another thread, (router for my router table) I posted Mark Owen's email message explaining the whole mess... so that cleared it all up.

Mike

[scott spencer]

It shouldn't take long to get a hundred bucks of use out of an FT1700....discontinued or not (which I had not heard previously). Reliable studies show that things tend to either break very early on in their service life, or run for their expected service life without issue....very few data points fall in between those two populations. The probabilities are overwhelmingly in your favor you'll be covered if there's an issue, otherwise you're likely to get years of service from it that goes well beyond the warranty period.

Buy a router and put it to work! ;)

[Jim Rimmer]

I own a Freud and a Ryobi router (both 2+ HP). I recently purchased a dovetail jig from Rockler thinking I could go straight to work makeing dovetails. WRONG. Ryobi does not have a base plate that will accept the template guide bushing and none are available on the after market. So, I ended up buying a Porter Cable router from Rockler and now am happily on my way. (On sale at Rockler for $129 with a $30 mail in rebate from PC through April.) Now I have my Freud in the router table, the Ryobi in a plunge base, and a PC for dovetails. Wish I had done research sooner.

[John Keeton]

I went through the same study session and ended up with the Freud 3000, and haven't looked back. Great choice!

[Curt Harms]

[quote=Jim Rimmer;1100871Ryobi does not have a base plate that will accept the template guide bushing and none are available on the after market. So, I ended up buying a Porter Cable router from Rockler and now am happily on my way. (On sale at Rockler for $129 with a $30 mail in rebate from PC through April.) [/quote]

Nothing wrong with buying more routers:D. However it's not too hard to make a base plate for any router to accept the Porter-Cable style bushings. You need a 1 3/16" & 1 3/8" forstner bit and a vix bit helps. I start with a piece of 3/8" acrylic, bought a 2'X4' piece so I can make a lot of base plates. I start with the existing base plate laid on the acrylic blank. A vix bit accurately marks the center for holes for the screws to attach the plate to the router. I countersink pan head screw heads and drill thru holes slightly oversize so I can adjust the base plate for alignment a little bit. Once tightened the plate doesn't seem to move. Mount a bit with a sharp point like a V groove bit in the router. Mount the base on the router and depending on the model lower the base carefully on the turning bit just to make a mark. Remove the base plate and drill a small through hole in the mark. You now have a hole centered all the way thru. The side away from the router gets a 1 3/8" hole as deep as the flange of the bushing. Turn the plate over and drill an 1 3/16" hole all the way thru. You now have a custom base plate:D.

If Pat Warner makes a base plate for your model router, you can ignore all the above and get a well crafted base plate for not much money. Bill Hylton's books have other sub base jigs and I'm sure other router books have useful jigs as well. Lots of fun.

Curt