Euro hinges--dlawless hardware

[Jeremy Bracey]

First, I have never used Euro style hinges before. I am preparing to build vanities and cabinets for our soon to be built new house. I would like to use "hidden" hinges and have been looking through the rockler catalog at BLUM hinges. WOW do they get expensive. I cant remember who gave me the link but I was directed towards Dlawless hardware online. Have any of you ever used thier hinges. Thier about a buck a pair! (for 1/2 overlay face frame hinges).

Also, any advice on installing this type of hinge?

I have been visiting this site frequently for the last three months but this is only my second post. Thanks for the help!

Jeremy
Fort Wayne, IN

[John Miliunas]

Hey Jeremy...Vanities and cabinets for a new house? Quite the undertaking! Best of luck with that! I haven't used the vendor you mention, nor have I had the "privelege" of using Blum hinges, though I hear they're the best. As it happens, though, I did just do some cabs/vanities for our bathroom and tested the waters on Euro-style hinges. Didn't take long for me to fall in love with these critters! :o Nice results and relatively easy to install, even for old "Ten-Thumbs" over here! :rolleyes:

It sounds like you'll be doing LOTS of them. In that case, I would probably check out Rockler ( http://www.rockler.com/findit.cfm?page=5878 ) and get setup with their "Jig It" gear. I used their drill guide, mounting plate guide and 35mm drill bit with great results. :) BTW, the hinges I bought, came in a 10-pack at one of the Big Box stores and were pretty reasonable. Checking the prices at the vendor you mention, may make it worth your while to just order a set or two and play with them to see how you like them and what quality they really are. (If they're any good, please, let the rest of us know! :D ) Good luck with your project! :cool:

[Jamie Buxton]

Yes, Rockler's prices for cup hinges are higher than some other sources. I get mine from www.wwhardware.com. They have the full program of Blum hinges -- lots more than Rockler --- and for much lower prices. I use Blum rather than cheap imports (ie what HD stocks) for two reasons: I know Blum is seriously in this business, and seriously wants to build a good product; and Blum has all the options so I can do darn near anything. I know that all the options in cup hinges may be confusing at first, but have faith, it does make sense after you study it a while. The wwhardware printed catalog has loads of support info, and the web site probably has it too. If you get stuck, post questions here. There's lots of help available.

[Todd Burch]

Jeremy, I haven't used a whole lot of these type hinges, but the more I do use them on cabinetry, the more I like them. Typically, I'll use a butt hinge... no adjustment, lots of mortising, no forgiveness. With the euro hinges, you drill a hole (drill press prefereably, with a table set up with a rear fence), screw them in, mount the face frame (or frameless) blocks, clip them on (I use the clip on style), and you are done.

Eeeeeeasy.

[Roger Kirkpatrick]

Hi jeremy,
I'm new to this forum too, but not new to Euro hinges. I use hundreds of them a month.
I have jigs set up for boring the holes for the cups (1 3/8 bit work fine) and a jig for locating the plate on the face frame. I use only Blumm now, they are the best and easiest to adjust when installing them which makes them faster to use. Blumm has a spec book on all there hinge products. See if you can get your hands on that. All dim. are in mm and I don't remember what they are for standard 1/2" overlay face frame hinges to locate the cup hole from the edge of the door. (3mm rings a bell).
You need to have your doors 1" larger than the openning (for 1/2" overlay) I locate the plate 3" from the edge of the openning (top and bottom) and the cup 3 1/2" from the egde of the door. The plates have 2 small hooks to locate them from on the face (in and out of the openning). The screws to use are #6 x 5/8" for the plates and the cups. When drilling for the cups in the door (on a drill press) I don't drill for the screws. I install the hinges in the door then take a straight edge against the back of both hinges to line them up. Then with a vix bit I drill for the screws.
Hope this helps.

[Joseph N. Myers]

Jeremy,

Welcome to the forum.

You also may want to keep Custom Service Hardware, 800-882-0009, www.schardware.com (http://www.schardware.com) in mind. I know a lot of people on the forum including myself order from them. Their prices are excellent. I've never used Euro hinges so I can't comment on them except that Custom Service does sells them.

BTW, you may want to consider adding your city/state to your profile --- many times the answer given depends on where you live, i.e., interested in buying wood and/or someone may live by you that might have the knowledge or equipment that you need. Mind you, only a suggestion.

Regards, Joe

[Kurt Aebi]

Welcome aboard Jeremy,

I did me kitchen cabinets with this type of hinge. I used hinges made by Liberty Hardware and were available from Home Depot for less than $15.00 for 10 pair. I used 5/8" Overlay, 110° for all of my doors. Definitely get the "Jig-It" from Rockler (I did and never regretted it) the d'lawless hinges look pretty much like the same thing as I got. I have had my kitchen done for about 8 years now and aside from occasionally haveing to chesk the adjustment screws for tightness and some sight adjustments required from the normal wood movement - thay have been just fine. My father's cabinets (Kraft Maid) have Blum hinges and his have held up pretty much the same as mine, so I don't see a need to pay the extra for the name "Blum". I say go with them and either buy or make a jig and you will be alright.

Oh yea, you will need a good 35mm Forstner Bit!

[larry merlau]

[QUOTE=John Miliunas] Didn't take long for me to fall in love with these critters! :o Nice results and relatively easy to install, even for old "Ten-Thumbs" over here! :rolleyes:

hey john i have looked at them as well and have a kitchen to do, i was kinda concerned about the deep recess they use. i know the major companys all use them now days but i was just being careful, have a crooked kitchen to contend with and wanted to do it right and solide. am a firm believer in building it stought if in doubt.
any other ideas or tid bits of wisdom for northern neighbor?

[John Miliunas]

hey john i have looked at them as well and have a kitchen to do, i was kinda concerned about the deep recess they use. i know the major companys all use them now days but i was just being careful, have a crooked kitchen to contend with and wanted to do it right and solide. am a firm believer in building it stought if in doubt.
any other ideas or tid bits of wisdom for northern neighbor?

Larry, I'm by NO means a "pro" with this stuff, but if *I* can find them easy to use, pretty much *anyone* can! If you keep your stile and rail stock to 3/4", you won't have any problems. The ones I used were 1/2" overlay on to the face frames. From what I understand, they're not as adjustable as the Blum's, but gave me enough for what I needed. If your cabinet and doors are square to begin with and the doors sized properly, little adjustment will be needed. The ones I did are in a bathroom, hence wide humidity swings and thus far, (knock on wood,) no probs with the original adjustments. :) I used pocket holes (Kregg jig) and glue for the face frames and all is quite stout. The main cabinet supports a 2x4', 2" thick slab of acrylic, plus two more upright cabinets, resting directly on top of the slab! :rolleyes: I did reinforce the back side of the cabinet with some Oak laterals to help prevent racking, but otherwise, pretty straightforward construction. :cool: