G0490 belt size?

[Charlie Doret]

Finally got my new Grizzly G0490 jointer up and running on Saturday. With some tweaking of the motor/cutterhead pulley alignment I've almost eliminated the vibration, but not quite. Also, the belt still wiggles such that it fits through the slot in the base, but slaps a bit on the belt guard (it runs quietly with the guard removed). Based on suggestions here on the Creek I'd like to replace the belt, and I'm planning to try a cogged v-belt instead of a link belt due to the lower cost.

Two questions:

a) Unfortunately I'm only in the same place as my tools on weekends, and I forgot to measure the belt before I left. I asked Grizzly customer service, and based on the part number they told me I _think_ it might be 1/2" x 46", but I'm not sure. Can anyone confirm that this is the right size, or tell me a different size? Obviously there's some flexibility given the slots for mounting the motor, but I don't want to get a belt exactly the wrong length such that the motor wants to be on the spot between the slots.

b) I've never used one of these cogged belts before, but McMaster sells "cogged," and "cogged wedged," which have a slightly different profile. For those that use cogged belts, can you recommend one type over the other?

Thanks!

[James Adinaro]

I'm not in the same place as my tools either, but I know you're right on the 1/2" part.

I replaced my belt with the link belt. It helped, but I still get the belt slap on startup and shutdown. I 've tried everything, aligning the pulleys, lots of tension, LOTS OF TENSION, less tension, checking runout, etc. I can't get rid of the belt slap. It's kind of a known issue with the 490s.

I could take the guard off, but that just freaks me out I guess. The holes in the base just need to be bigger. That's all I can figure. Unfortunately, once I'd got the jointer up on the base, moving it off to cut the holes bigger doesn't seem like fun.

Good Luck.

[Tom Esh]

For sure I would not recommend more tension (and bearing load) than is neccessary to prevent slip just to eliminate the startup slap. I run my 604 without the belt guard. For me it's quite sufficiently inaccessisible as it is - buried under the carriage support and I can't imagine a reason I'd be contorting to reach back there with the machine running. However if I had small kids around I'd probably just let it slap. It can't do any harm except maybe a little scuffing on the outside of the belt.

[glenn bradley]

On my G0490X I used two nuts as spacers to raise the height of the belt guard about 5/16". Belt slap now minimal. Link belt here too. I never even bothered with the original. I (of course) am at LOML's house and so cannot measure the original but will be able to tomorrow after work if no one beats me to it. (I'd just get a link belt if I were you though). ;-)

[Scott Wigginton]

On my G0490X I used two nuts as spacers to raise the height of the belt guard about 5/16". Belt slap now minimal. Link belt here too. I never even bothered with the original. I (of course) am at LOML's house and so cannot measure the original but will be able to tomorrow after work if no one beats me to it. (I'd just get a link belt if I were you though). ;-)

Ditto what glenn did with a link belt. No slap on startup.

[paul dyar]

I worked in predictive maintenance, and the root cause of most of vibration was the motor base. If you squeeze the belt between your thumb and index finger you will see the motor base flex. It is no where stiff enough. This is what I did to stop the vibration, may not be the finial fix, but it will pass the penny test now.
paul



http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1080718#post1080718

[Chip Lindley]

My solution with a Delta DJ20 (same as G0490) was to use a 3/8 belt (3L) instead of 1/2 (4L). The used jointer had been *upgraded* with a 1/2" Fenner Power Twist which caused a HUGE racket hitting the edge of the base opening AND the guard. The belt was just to wide AND tall for the opening provided! Notice that any 1/2" 4L belt protrudes well beyond the pulley diameter!!

Funny, but until I could get a 3L Fenner, I replaced with an a narrow/worn cogged belt off a Rockwell Model 10 CS I had laying around and it fit AND ran perfectly!! That is a 48" belt which is longer than the original. I moved the motor down on it's mounting bracket into a new set of holes. The orignal belt would be about 45-46".

[Cary Falk]

I have the Shop Fox version of this jointer and have belt slap but no vibration. I THOUGHT I read somewhere that you can shorten the belt to reduce the slap. That would make sense unless you move the motor too far up and the motor pulley spreads the belt wider then the hole. I plan on putting on a 3/8" link belt when I get around to it and plan to try different belt lengths both longer and shorter. I have also spread the cover sides a little to get it away from the belt.

[glenn bradley]

I plan on putting on a 3/8" link belt when I get around to it

I spoke to Grizzly on this as my 1/2" link belt causes some clearance problems for the fence carriage. Most folks will never know there is an issue as far as I can tell. Griz states that the 1/2" belt is the recommended belt and warned against the 3/8" I asked about. They stated that grinding the 'arch' in the carriage for clearance is OK with them.

[William Long]

I just got a G0490X. Do you guys have picture of what you are talking about. Mine is still in the box.

[Cary Falk]

I spoke to Grizzly on this as my 1/2" link belt causes some clearance problems for the fence carriage. Most folks will never know there is an issue as far as I can tell. Griz states that the 1/2" belt is the recommended belt and warned against the 3/8" I asked about. They stated that grinding the 'arch' in the carriage for clearance is OK with them.

Well then... I am getting rubbing on the guard/cover and I can't grind an arch in that. I might have to weld up a larger cover and enlarge the hole. I will probably wait till I replace the cutterhead with a spiral to do anything.

[Chip Lindley]

GEEZ Glenn, you would think a machine would be designed with sufficient clearance for the v-belt, without cutting or grinding! HOW DUMB! There was evidently something LOST in translation between Tiawan and the US on this issue. Perhaps there are metric belts in Asia?? To be specific, a 1/2" belt sits proud of the pulley O.D. almost 1/16". It does not fit into the V flush! This is definately a problem!

It's not just Grizzly, but also the more expensive Delta DJ20! (same Factory!) I fixed my problem with a thinner belt. Others may cut and grind to their heart's content on a brand NEW machine!

[glenn bradley]

GEEZ Glenn, you would think a machine would be designed with sufficient clearance for the v-belt, without cutting or grinding! HOW DUMB! There was evidently something LOST in translation between Tiawan and the US on this issue. Perhaps there are metric belts in Asia?? To be specific, a 1/2" belt sits proud of the pulley O.D. almost 1/16". It does not fit into the V flush! This is definately a problem!

It's not just Grizzly, but also the more expensive Delta DJ20! (same Factory!) I fixed my problem with a thinner belt. Others may cut and grind to their heart's content on a brand NEW machine!

The standard v-belt fits fine. The shoulders of the link belt links stand more proud of the pulley due to design.

Many manufacturers/designers seem to miss the most obvious things, eh? Of course it is easier to criticize than to originally design. Maybe we are supposed to be impressed that the clearance is sooo close on the original belt(?). I'd rather have a bit of room ;-)

At any rate, certainly not the first or likely to be the last budget priced tool that will require a bit of futzing around after purchase. If I had paid Delta's price, I would be screaming bloody murder but at half price, I'm OK.