Kreg jig split out

[Rawliee Jones]

When using the Kreg jig to create pocket holes I get tear out and splits on the end of the board. I have checked the depth of drill bit and it is exact.

I also get splits when screwing the face frame together. The screw point sometimes come through the wood or will split the end of the wood. I have checked drill bit depth, screw length.

Any ideas on either case?

[Mike Gager]

the drill bit shouldnt be existing the end of the board so if it is its not "exact". id say double check your measurments

[Leo Graywacz]

If the screw is coming out of the wood something is not correct. Your wood is to thin or your hole is to deep. When you drill your pocket hole the drill bit should not show a hole on the exit side. It might show a dimple, but the hole should not go through.

For splits the problem might be the screw is to close to the edge of the end grain. Move it farther away. Also if you are using a harder wood such as hickory you may have to predrill the wood. Make sure you are using the correct screw, fine thread for hardwoods and coarse threads for softwoods, particle board and MDF. Poplar should use coarse threads.

[Grant Morris]

Double check the depth stop on your drilll bit is set correctly. You are either drilling too deep, the screw is not the correct size for the material you are using or the drill bit guide is not set to the correct height for the material you are using.

Why don't you post the thickness and type of the material and the length of screw you are using.

Might help to RTFM too :-)

[Brian Effinger]

Make sure you are using the correct screw, fine thread for hardwoods and coarse threads for softwoods, particle board and MDF. Poplar should use coarse threads.

That was what I was going to say. I have split wood before by not using the correct threading. I also think that some screws are self tapping and others are not. That will make a differenct too.

[glenn bradley]

You don't mention which version of the jig but as others have said; its all about the collar position on the bit, the position of the jig from the edge of your material and the proper screws.

Let me see . . . Oh, here it is. I made this to speed up my setups:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=82185&d=1203608984


I loosen the collar, drop the drill in the appropriate hole along the top and slide the collar down and tighten.
The top row states the material's approximate thickness.
Next row down in the collar position from the shoulder of the bit.
Next row is the position of the jig (+3/8" means the jig extends 3/8" ahead of the edge, 'zero' means the jig is flush with the edge, etc.).
The bottom row is the screw length generally used.

[Brian Effinger]

That's a good idea, Glenn. I'll have to make one for mine. Thanks. :)

[Kevin Downs]

Anyone want to comment on the tear out? I too just had some tear out and am hoping I could find a solution. See picture.

I'm using softwood (standard 2x4) to drill the hole into. It's been cleaned up to parallel and square.

I'm using the master Kreg system. What would cause the tear out - what can I do to stop it?

Thanks

Kevin

[Rick Fisher]

One thing you can try is using an electric drill instead of a cordless.

Kreg jig is one of the few things I use a corded drill for. Higher speed seems to give a better cut.

[Richard McComas]

Get a corded drill that goes to 2500 RPM, let the drill reach full RPM before it touches the wood and Let the drill bit cut, don't push to hard or fast. Also run the drill bit in and out so you get good chip removal.

[Russ Boyd]

As far as the tip coming through, that could be the wrong length of screw. They make ones for 3/4 and 7/8 material. MOL.

[John Lucas]

I too use only a corded drill at 2500 rpm. That saves on bits too. I also use a cordless to drive the screw home but use a hand driver if I am splitting my ends.

[glenn bradley]

Anyone want to comment on the tear out?

Higher speed. Softwood is a challenge for this type of cut but my results improved drastically when I went to about 2500 RPM on the drill. Ooops, I just noticed how many other folks already said this ;-)

[Kevin Downs]

Awsome! Yes, I was using a cordless drill to make the hole. Off to the BORG!

[Pete Shermet]

I think the flutes in the second step of your drill are dull, DAMHIKT a "buddy " broke the pilot off so I ended up getting a new drill bit, cut smoothly after that. (buddy still hasn't replaced it) My tool loaner policy (if I loan them ) You break it you bought it!
Best Regards
Pete

[Lee Schierer]

You don't say what sort of wood you are using or what type of screws you used. Soft woods like pine will tend to crack if the screws are tightened too much. Using regular wood screws or dry wall screws will also split the wood. Use the self tapping screws that Kreg sells or those you can buy from McFeeley's for pocket holes.

Cordless drills do not have enough speed to make good holes. You want higher RPM's and the power to back it up to get clean holes.

[Bob Hallowell]

it sounds like you are driving the screw into much are you using a torque setting?

Bob