Nifty little jig for jointer

[Lewis Cobb]

This might be old news for some of you, but it's leading edge technology for me so I figured I would post it up in case there are others like me that could use it.

I came across this jointer knife setting jig in the wood mag site –

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/jointing-and-planing/jointer-knife-adjustment-jig/ (http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/jointing-and-planing/jointer-knife-adjustment-jig/)

Having a scrap block of maple that’s been kicking around for about 15 years, I decided to craft one up. I had to modify the measurements based on my dial indicator as mine has less travel but it turned out great – here’s some pics of my results –


http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn286/LHC_02/Jigs/146_46341.jpg

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn286/LHC_02/Jigs/146_46401.jpg

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn286/LHC_02/Jigs/146_46411.jpg

My base is not 100.00% flat and it can toss the micrometer needle a bit – less than .001 but maybe a quick pass over the jointer might help that. It could literally be dust though that’s causing that perturbation at these levels.

This thing really is handy – I have been using it to check the alignment of extension tables on my tablesaw and bandsaw as well as the outfeed table height relative to the apex of the carbide cutter head on my jointer. It can sort of be used to check for table co-planerness on the jointer as well but you can only really check the area of the tables close to the opening. A straightedge is needed for checking for table sag etc. over the full length.

A simple project and very useful if anyone’s interested. Make sure you check the dimensions of your dial indicator first though – I almost cut mine out before realizing the plunger would not reach the table beneath it with the published plans.

Bottom line - Two thumbs up !

[Stephen Edwards]

Thanks Lewis. This looks like a handy jig to have. I've saved your post to a file for future reference.

[Peter Quinn]

Nice jig. I use a cast iron version for lots of things, very handy beyond the jointer. Nice work there.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Nice looking jig. But with an AG-1 dial indicator, you can just use a piece of 3/4 stock laid flat, with hole bored into it. Shaft of DI goes in to hole. No fancy curve work involved.

[Myk Rian]

I put magnets in the bottom of mine. Works great.

[Frank Drew]

Nicely crafted jig, Lewis. But I thought one of the features of those insert cutterhead bits was that they didn't need setting, they could only go where they go. Do you find that they need adjustment?

[Tom Esh]

...My base is not 100.00% flat and it can toss the micrometer needle a bit – less than .001 but maybe a quick pass over the jointer might help that. It could literally be dust though that’s causing that perturbation at these levels...

I had the same issues with the one I made. I finally decided there are some things for which wood is just not the best material. ;) I broke down and got one of these http://www.oneway.ca/workshop/multi-gauge.htm
Dead flat, but it will also measure stray dust particles quite well. I take care to wipe it and the tool surfaces down regularly in use.

[Lewis Cobb]

Nicely crafted jig, Lewis. But I thought one of the features of those insert cutterhead bits was that they didn't need setting, they could only go where they go. Do you find that they need adjustment?

Hi Frank - you are correct. The cutters are where they are and do not move. I made this to be able to set the outfeed table relative to the top arc of the cutters to get it lined up on the same plane. I have to gently tap the jig to the right as I rock the cutter head back and forth to find the peak point of the cutter's arc and then I gently tap the lever to lower/raise the outfeed table to get it to the point I want it. I never thought to check several cutters to see how consistent they are, but a test cut on the jointer gave me a dead flat surface so it never crossed my mind.

Cheers,
Lewis

[Mike Spanbauer]

Looks nice! I own the Oneway and find it invaluable for several tasks around the shop... reference tools are very nice to get your machines in order for sure :)

mike

[Lewis Cobb]

I had the same issues with the one I made. I finally decided there are some things for which wood is just not the best material. ;) I broke down and got one of these http://www.oneway.ca/workshop/multi-gauge.htm
Dead flat, but it will also measure stray dust particles quite well. I take care to wipe it and the tool surfaces down regularly in use.


I noticed that once I put the magnets in the bottom it reduced the "wobble" substantially, but it's still there - probably less than half a thou. For the amount I use it, it will do me, but it's good to know there's a "final solution" available. Thanks for the link.

Cheers,
Lewis

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I have read that lower out-put = more controlled result.
The place I read that was a site run by what I took to be an electrical engineer. He was building his own out put and frequency regulating equipment.

I used a trickle charger after reading that and it works fine. Before that I uses a Shumacher 10 amp unit that also worked fine.

I also read that you can use Baking Soda So I tried it for the hell of it and it worked just fine.

I also tried Iron Out (sold it at the Borg) which is almost entirely citric acid and that worked with or without the charger.

Then I read that you can soak a rag in solution and lay that on a surface ( like a saw table) and that'll work when you hook up the electrodes to the rag and the table. So I tried that and it works but you gotta stay on top of it to keep the rag wet.

Evaporust s is a damn fine product.
Ya might try it.

Some guys soak their old files in Citric acid overnight and they say the acid makes 'em sharper - - lots sharper. I haven't tried that. I'm sure that the titration ratio of acid to water is very important for an over night soak for restoring a sharp edge on a file.

As far as electikal de rusting: So long as you get the polarity right, it's hard to screw it up.