Resawing with a TS

[Charlie North]

I am new to wood working and have spent the last few weeks reading about table saw use.

I was disappointed when the "Mastering Your Table Saw" DVD recommended against resawing with a TS.

"Table Saw Fundamentals The Complete Guide" says it's fine to resaw.

(This book also recommends placing a featherboard with it's far feathers ending at the center of the blade.) I'm pretty sure most posters here have said to keep the featherboard short of the blade?

Anyway, my main question is do you think it's safe to resaw with a TS?

[David DeCristoforo]

It's not so much that it isn't safe. It's just not a very efficient way to resaw. It can be dangerous if, for example you try to split stock with the entire cutting depth of a thin kerf blade buried in the wood and it overheats and the blade starts to warp in the cut... yes that could get pretty hairy. But I have split lots of boards on the table saw so it's not like it can't be done. The bandsaw is just a much better machine for this.

[Chris Kennedy]

I've done this on occasion, mainly because I don't have a bandsaw. I have been resawing already surfaced stock, and I use a push shoe and a featherboard (in front of the blade).

I usually don't cut all the way through -- I cut just short of half way, and then flip the board over and do so again. That leaves a thin connection down the middle that I then cut by hand. I then smooth the wood with a jack plane.

Slightly time consuming, but I don't do it very often.

Cheers,

Chris

[Myk Rian]

To me, resawing on the TS is just plain scary. That's why I put a riser on my Delta BS.

[Andrew Joiner]

Yes. I do it all the time. A good thin kerf blade gives a suface ready to glue or sand with 100 grit RO sander. It wastes about as much wood as a bandsaw kerf and surfacing. A bandsawn resaw usually must be surfaced to glue.
Some people here are able to get bandsaws resaw cuts that need no surfacing to face glue, but not many.

I'd say 3" high resawing with a 10" cabinet saw and decent blade can be done safely. I resaw up to 8" high by flipping the boards and get good results, it's not as safe. Over 8" high a bandsaw is the best option.


A featherboard would be safest on the infeed side of the table saw blade. Of course USE PUSH STICKS. This design works good:


http://www.knottyplans.com/html/images/articles/push_stick.jpg




You must use a zero clearance insert far safer resawing on a table saw. Thin veneers are best sliced off to the left of the blade if the fence is on the right of the blade.

In general most woodworkers say a bandsaw is safer for resawing.

[Chris Padilla]

To me, resawing on the TS is just plain scary. That's why I put a riser on my Delta BS.

+1 :D Resawing is for a bandsaw...not the table saw but tons and tons of people do it all the time...it just isn't for me. :)

[Charlie North]

Thank you for your replies.

I need your ideas to help me get a clue!!

Here's black walnut? that a friend brought over when I mentioned that I'm trying to learn.



http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss297/charlienorth/DELTA-ROCKWELL%2034-440%20TS/DicksDonation.jpg

[David DeCristoforo]

That's exactly the kind of thing I would not try to resaw on a table saw! But if someone had a gun to my head, I would establish two straight (not necessarily parallel) edges. Then I would rip as deep as I could on each edge, probably in two or three passes cranking the blade up a bit for each pass. Then I would cut the remaining width with either a hand saw or a reciprocating saw with a 12" blade.

[Chris Padilla]

Any chance you're in the SF Bay Area, Charlie? I could resaw that for you easily. :) It looks to be under 16" width so my MM20 could handle it.

I agree with David on this one...that is a hunk o' walnut...I nearly soiled my shorts just looking at that pic and thinking about running it through a table saw. Do you know anyone with a bandsaw big enough? Maybe find a cabinet shop in your area...pay to have it done...I think it'll be worth it.

[Chris Kennedy]

Thank you for your replies.

I need your ideas to help me get a clue!!

Here's black walnut? that a friend brought over when I mentioned that I'm trying to learn.



Not in this lifetime . . . my health insurance deductible is more than a bandsaw.

I've only resawn stock with straight edges, not rough lumberand even then, it hasn't been that wide.

If I were to do that on a tablesaw, I would do as David sugggested -- get two good straight edges (use a jointer clamp?).

Preferred method -- find a friend with a bandsaw, or tell your original friend that he is out of luck.

Cheers,

Chris

[Rich Souchek]

Charlie,
Heck yes you can resaw with a tablesaw, and yes, some bandsaws make simple work of it.
But I resaw fairly often using a tablesaw, and untill recently, without a splitter. Actually, it is the splitter that makes the big difference. It is just a small piece of wood or metal that sticks up past the sawblade that keeps the kerf from closing up on the blade and casuing a kickback.
I would just keep an attentive eye and feel for wood that seemed to bind or get harder to cut. This is usually caused by wood movement after being cut and is an invitation to a kickback or trouble. Don't invite trouble, at the first good sign of the wood being harder to slide thru the blade, stop and turn off the machine. Then raise the wood and see what is going on.
I would often cut green wood or partially dried wood the same way. The key is really getting a good reference edge or two. If not, make a sled that will hold the wood for cutting. I regularly will cut a depth of say 2.5" and then turn the wood over and finish the cut from the other side.
For short pieces with a good down flat surface, I even cut freehand with good results.
It is really whatever you are comfrotable with.
Rich S.

[Andrew Joiner]

For short pieces with a good down flat surface, I even cut freehand with good results.

Rich S.

I agree with most of what you said Rich, but not this. Not on a table saw. Short and freehand could lead to a missing hand!

[Jim Kountz]

Im in the "dont use the TS crowd". Its just not worth it to me to take the chance. Resawing and bandsaws are like peas and carrots. Resawing and tablesaws are like peas and chocolate, you can do it, it just isnt that good!!

[Charlie North]

Again my thanks to all of you for your guidance.


Any chance you're in the SF Bay Area, Maybe find a cabinet shop in your area...pay to have it done...I think it'll be worth it.

I wish I was in sunny California. (Unfortunately, I'm in snowy Wisconsin.)




Preferred method -- find a friend with a bandsaw, or tell your original friend that he is out of luck.


This is now MY hunk of walnut! :-)


Since I have no bandsaw, I'll try some resawing with faced wood using featherboards and push sticks. The walnut will go in the corner until I find a bandsaw to buy or borrow.

[David DeCristoforo]

"Unfortunately, I'm in snowy Wisconsin..."

Betcha anything there's guys with bandsaws in Wisconsin....

[Lee Schierer]

As others have said it can be done and done safely. I've done it, but have used the BS since I got one. When resawing on the TS it is important that the saw be welll aligned and that you place your feather boards where they will not pinch the wood against the blade (This means raising up the feather board up higher on teh board for the second pass through the same side). You will have a lot of blade exposed so be very conscious of where your fingers are at all times.

I also wouldn't resaw a piece like you've shown with out making a flat side, even on a bandsaw.

[David Keller NC]

Charlie - A slightly different opinion, and a question. The question is, what's it worth to you to avoid a broken arm or internal bleeding that requires surgery?

Yeah, the accident that re-sawing on a table saw can cause is that serious.

Remember that it's inconsequential how many replies you get on this thread that says "I do it all the time". Safety is predicated on the likelyhood of an injury, the frequency of the operation, and the consequences of an accident. If the operation is risky (in terms of likelyhood of an accident) but would result in a very minor inconvenience, then one should consider it.

However, if the consequences of an accident are really severe, it's a bad idea, even if the probability is fairly low (which often results in lots of "I do it all the time and have never had a problem.." types of replies).

I do this sort of risk assessment professionally. Don't re-saw on a table saw - it's not designed for this purpose, and encountering a grain twist or a hidden nail can launch a 20 lb board back at you at the speed of a professionally swung baseball bat, except the variables involved mean that you can't predict where the swing will come from - there is no safe place to stand on the infeed side of the saw.

Don't do it. Buy a bandsaw, or find a friend with one.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I have done some resawing on my table saw. But with a 1 3/4" total height (3"+ resaw), I can't even split a 2x4. So I finally opted for the bandsaw.

You definately must use a featherboard on the leading edge (in front of the blade) and a splitter if you have one. Both from a safety aspect and for reproducability. Most articles I've read suggest cutting 60% of the height on the first pass. Then flip the board end for end and cut 45% on the second (yes that adds 105% to be sure to cut all the way through the center of the piece). This prevents the blade from poking through the top of the board and minimizes how much blade is used. The featherboard will make sure the top and bottom cuts are lined up when making the second cut.

After having use a bandsaw for some of the shorter resawing, I can definately see where using the TS may be useful. I am finding that it take me just as much wood to bandsaw a board (kerf plus clean-up) as the TS does (just the kerf as there usually isn't any clean up).

[Andy Bardowell]

Charlie if you haven’t already tried this, check with your local woodworking club I'm sure someone will be glad to help you out, disrespecting a table saw especially that one may cost you something you are not willing to part with. I’ll tell you right now that that contractor's saw will bog down in anything that big and dense.

This stuff is scary man…

There is a Table saw Injury every 9 minutes

Every year there are:

* Over 60,000 injuries
* Over 3000 amputations
* $2 billion in injury related costs

[Clifford Mescher]

Charlie if you haven’t already tried this, check with your local woodworking club I'm sure someone will be glad to help you out, disrespecting a table saw especially that one may cost you something you are not willing to part with. I’ll tell you right now that that contractor's saw will bog down in anything that big and dense.

This stuff is scary man…

There is a Table saw Injury every 9 minutes

Every year there are:

* Over 60,000 injuries
* Over 3000 amputations
* $2 billion in injury related costs
The tablesaw is my tool of choice for the very few times that I re-saw. I follow strict rules and recently purchased the GRR-Ripper to make the operation even more safe. That being said, I could not let the above statistic go without offering some perspective:
DROWNING & SWIMMING POOL ACCIDENTS


According to the Center for Disease Control, there were over 3,300 deaths caused by drowning or submersion in 2000. This rate is particularly high for children under 16 which represent almost 25% of all drowning victims. About 350 children under 5 drown in pools each year. Drowning is the second leading cause of http://www.munley.com/images/swimming_accidents.jpgdeath for this age group after motor vehicle incidents. Another 2,600 children are treated in hospital emergency rooms each year for near-drowning incidents.

Adding to the tragedy are approximately 5,000 more children who experienced near-drowning emergencies. Many of those suffer permanent neurological disability.

The vast majority of these accidents happen in backyard pools.
I am not down-playing the dangers of careless machine operations, but only giving the "statistics" a little levity.
Enjoy your woodworking but don't forget to think. Clifford.

[Craig Moulton]

+1 for don't try to re-saw that monster.

Some other-people's mistakes info for you:

Your featherboard question: The featherboard should press the solid part of the board <Edit> like Lee said, (before it has contacted the blade at all) firmly against the fence. This ensures that the saw blade passes through a nice straight path in the wood and doesn't get squeezed in the groove that's created as it cuts (if the featherboard were aligned with the center of the blade it would do this) or cocked off to one side (picture asking your wife to hold the end of a long board you're ripping as it exits the saw, only did that once). Either of those instances will cause the blade to get hotter and / or create more friction between the spinning saw blade and the wood. For this reason, it's also important that the saw blade is sharp, straight and aligned perfectly parallel to the fence.

Splitter: A splitter helps hold open the slot cut in the wood to prevent pinching the blade (see above for why this is bad). If you're resawing something that must be done in more than one pass, your splitter can't stick up higher than your cutting depth or it will create an end to your cut and an awkward and dangerous situation when the solid wood reaches the splitter. You can make a zero clearance insert with a short splitter pretty easily if you have access to a router, or skilsaw and sander. PM me if you need info on how to do this.

Good luck, and safety first.

[Eric Gustafson]

I now have a bandsaw will do all my resawing on it. But, i have used a contractor ts. I use a feather board before the blade and I take it in passes, never burying the blade more than an inch a pass. That way you do not load up the blade. I have cut fairly thick lumber this way.

[Clifford Mescher]

I've done this on occasion, mainly because I don't have a bandsaw. I have been resawing already surfaced stock, and I use a push shoe and a featherboard (in front of the blade).

I usually don't cut all the way through -- I cut just short of half way, and then flip the board over and do so again. That leaves a thin connection down the middle that I then cut by hand. I then smooth the wood with a jack plane.

Slightly time consuming, but I don't do it very often.

Cheers,

Chris
That is exactly the method I employ when I re-saw. I believe that I saw Norm do it that way a long time ago. Clifford.

[David DeCristoforo]

"...I cut just short of half way, and then flip the board over and do so again. That leaves a thin connection down the middle that I then cut by hand."

I'm thinking that with a plank as wide as the one in the OP's pics, there's gonna be a bit more than a "thin connection" to get through with the hand saw!

[Clifford Mescher]

"...I cut just short of half way, and then flip the board over and do so again. That leaves a thin connection down the middle that I then cut by hand."

I'm thinking that with a plank as wide as the one in the OP's pics, there's gonna be a bit more than a "thin connection" to get through with the hand saw!
I think the OP said he was going to put that hunk of walnut in a corner till he gets a bandsaw. Clifford.

[george wilson]

I haven't read all the posts,but I wouldn't even consider resawing on the table saw if you have a decent bandsaw. It uses up way too much wood,and most of my wood is very expensive. It also makes a lot of heat which causes warping. I've had my share of blades getting hot and flapping,too,in years past. Lastly,you can't resaw very thick wood that way,anyway.

I used to do it when I had no bandsaw. You need to learn how to saw with a bandsaw. It's not as easy to make straight cuts with one as a table saw,but it can do wonderful resawing when you master it. I've seen plenty of people who cannot resaw well at all.They couldn't stay within 1/4" of the line!! And these were people with Master's degrees in furniture conservation!! I sawed a sheet of 12" thick Cuban mahogany,which is as hard as ebony,into a sheet 1/16" thick,so well that it looked like a sheet of veneer,except for the cut marks. They asked me how I did that,after they watched me do it. I told them they had to learn to make love to the bandsaw!! A little jokingly,but it is really true. A real sharp blade,and the ability to feel how fast(or slow) it wants to cut are the secrets.

[Chris Kennedy]

"...I cut just short of half way, and then flip the board over and do so again. That leaves a thin connection down the middle that I then cut by hand."

I'm thinking that with a plank as wide as the one in the OP's pics, there's gonna be a bit more than a "thin connection" to get through with the hand saw!

Hence why I said in my follow-up post after seeing the picture -- not in this lifetime!

I have done this with kiln-dried Borg lumber, with the material being no more than a 4" (nominal). The stock is S4S, with everything relatively straight and square. By my judgment, this is of equal danger as burying a dado stack in solid stock. That piece of stock -- yeah, no.

Cheers,

Chris

[David DeCristoforo]

Oh and one other thing. As long as it has come up in this thread, statistics are meaningless when it comes to safety. The biggest cause of injury is overconfidence. It only takes once. Things can happen. I'm not saying that we should live in fear. Just that we have to be... well, the point is made... we don't need another sermon....

[Cody Colston]

I've re-sawn narrower stock on the TS but I wouldn't even attempt it on that piece of Walnut you have.

One thing not mentioned about re-sawing on the TS is that even with a thin-kerf blade, you lose a lot of stock compared to a band saw blade. If you are re-sawing veneers, you are probably losing as much or more to the kerf width when using the TS.

As David said, there are certainly band saw owners in Wisconsin. ;)

[Andy Bardowell]

The tablesaw is my tool of choice for the very few times that I re-saw. I follow strict rules and recently purchased the GRR-Ripper to make the operation even more safe. That being said, I could not let the above statistic go without offering some perspective:
DROWNING & SWIMMING POOL ACCIDENTS

The vast majority of these accidents happen in backyard pools.
I am not down-playing the dangers of careless machine operations, but only giving the "statistics" a little levity.
Enjoy your woodworking but don't forget to think. Clifford.

Not sure how you'd split that piece of wood on edge using the GRR-Ripper, or how you found my post light or funny.

Look Charlie, most guys listen to a bunch of advice from people and then do what they want anyway, the basic rule is if it feels unsafe don't do it!

[Clifford Mescher]

Not sure how you'd split that piece of wood on edge using the GRR-Ripper, or how you found my post light or funny.

Look Charlie, most guys listen to a bunch of advice from people and then do what they want anyway, the basic rule is if it feels unsafe don't do it!
The OP did not ask how to resaw that big piece. I don't re-saw very often and only what tablesaw will handle. I did not find your post funny. On the contrary, I was just trying to put the amount of injuries in perspective. Sorry if my post was confusing. Not always the best at explaining things. Clifford.

[jay case]

Oh and one other thing. As long as it has come up in this thread, statistics are meaningless when it comes to safety. The biggest cause of injury is overconfidence. It only takes once. Things can happen. I'm not saying that we should live in fear. Just that we have to be... well, the point is made... we don't need another sermon....

Not true. The biggest cause of injury is ignorance of the statistics. To believe otherwise would be foolish.

[george wilson]

Cody,I mentioned the loss of wood. I don't like to lose any more Brazilian rosewood,ebony,very curly maple,Cuban mahogany,or boxwood that I absolutely have to.

[Myk Rian]

Maybe this post should have been a simple poll for yes - no.

[David DeCristoforo]

"Not true. The biggest cause of injury is ignorance of the statistics. To believe otherwise would be foolish."

Them's fightin' words. Better start a new thread!

[BOB OLINGER]

I appreciate all the comments. Over the years, I've done very little resawing. However, I'm in the process of making a good number of plantation shutters, and the blanks for shutter slats have to be made by resawing. A few weeks ago I resawed several hundred feet of both poplar and red oak on my TS using a Freud thin kerf blade, push stick, and feather board set up plus carefully taking my time. The raw stock was about 3' thick. I used about 3 passes to get through the material. I previously tried on my bandsaw, but that didn't work. My bandsaw is just a 12" Craftsman. I used a 3/8" or 1/2" blade. Being I have more resawing in the future, I assume my bandsaw is undersized for this work. What size of bandsaw and type of blade is best for resawing?

[Clifford Mescher]

Not true. The biggest cause of injury is ignorance of the statistics. To believe otherwise would be foolish.
Don't understand that but rushing a job and overconfidence is something I understand. Also, a long job with repetitive cuts can make the mind and hands wander.
Times in the past I have used a band saw to re-saw and found that I didn't save much wood because it took more stock to clean-up on the planer. Stock removal after re-sawing on table saw is minimal.Clifford. YMMV

[Myk Rian]

My bandsaw is just a 12" Craftsman. I used a 3/8" or 1/2" blade. Being I have more resawing in the future, I assume my bandsaw is undersized for this work. What size of bandsaw and type of blade is best for resawing?
I just sold my 12" C-man and bought a used Delta 14". Then I put a riser kit on it. Found it on CL for $400 in excellent condition.
I'll be getting a 1/2" 3-4 tpi blade for it for the resawing of taller stock, but right now I have a 1/4" 6 tpi blade on it. Does great on shorter stuff with that blade.

[Chris Padilla]

I appreciate all the comments. Over the years, I've done very little resawing. However, I'm in the process of making a good number of plantation shutters, and the blanks for shutter slats have to be made by resawing. A few weeks ago I resawed several hundred feet of both poplar and red oak on my TS using a Freud thin kerf blade, push stick, and feather board set up plus carefully taking my time. The raw stock was about 3' thick. I used about 3 passes to get through the material. I previously tried on my bandsaw, but that didn't work. My bandsaw is just a 12" Craftsman. I used a 3/8" or 1/2" blade. Being I have more resawing in the future, I assume my bandsaw is undersized for this work. What size of bandsaw and type of blade is best for resawing?

This is a good topic for another thread but in general, while blades are important, I think technique and bandsaw setup are the most critical elements to getting good resaws.

A good saw that can be tensioned high is probably also a bonus.

I've resawn with 1/2" blades, 6 tpi, and gotten very nice results. I've also resawn with 1" blade, 2/3 variable pitch (carbide, a Trimaster) and gotten very nice results.

[Bob Johnson Lake Geneva]

Just posting to thread in-case some people are find this thread and read it.

I am a cabinet maker and have worked in several high end shops, with band saws by the way. All resawing was on the TS if it was 5 inch's in width or less, only then would we cut it on the band saw. The TS was much faster, and did a better job. We never used a splitter either (I know lot of people don't agree) and never a kickback, kickback's happen when you don't watch what you are doing. Watch the back of the board and if the board has enough tension to close up at the back of the cut keep pushing it through, it's when you stop that kickback happens, keep pushing and it will either finish the cut or stall the saw and it that happens keep holding on and pushing until you or co-worker can turn the saw off. Never had a accident and still have all my digets.

[Jeff Duncan]

OK not to start yet another one of these threads, but there's a reason why Europeans have had riving knives on their saws for years.....b/c it's safer! If you don't use a riving knife or splitter that's fine it's your choice, FWIW I don't usually use one either, but I also don't want to promote it. Many guys working in pro shops, even the high end ones, tend to develop bad habits of working without guards and in unsafe ways to "get the job done". Consequently insurance rates for these shop tends to be very high as inevitably guys end up in the ER. Safety equipment is designed engineered and put in place for a reason. I'm glad you still have all your "digits", but if you've worked in enough shops you've found a LOT of guys who have a couple missing or have some other scars from that split second mistake.....I know I have:o

Oh and FWIW since I upgraded to a larger saw I never re-saw on the table saw anymore. Having done it quite a bit both ways a larger bandsaw with a carbide blade is far superior to a table saw in this application.....just my experience though YMMV.

good luck,
jeffd



JeffD