Removing cosmoline

[Alex Berkovsky]

I am in the process of removing cosmoline from my new Grizzly TS (stealth gloat) :D. I used kerosene to remove all the gooey stuff and now ready for the next step. The question is what should the next step be? I have Boeshield T-9, Johnson wax, and Renaissance wax on hand.

[Jason White]

I used mineral spirits and scotch brite pads to remove the cosmoline. Worked great. Then I coated with "Slip It."



I am in the process of removing cosmoline from my new Grizzly TS (stealth gloat) :D. I used kerosene to remove all the gooey stuff and now ready for the next step. The question is what should the next step be? I have Boeshield T-9, Johnson wax, and Renaissance wax on hand.

[George Morris]

I used WD40 and towels works OK. George

[Bill Huber]

+1 for mineral spirit....

I also buy those blue towels in the roll and they are great.

[Jim O'Dell]

If you are comfortable that all the goo is off, go ahead and use the Boeshield. Nice thick coat. Let it set for a day or two, the wipe down. Nice coat of wax on top of that and you're ready to cut wood!! If you can wait that long. :rolleyes: If not, cut wood, then do the above part tomorrow evening as the last thing you do in the shop. Tues eve do the wax. Jim.

[glenn bradley]

+1 for mineral spirits here too but I think the OP is asking what's next. Johnson's Paste Wax has served me well for years. I keep a can marked "tools" and a can marked "wood" and no, my shoes aren't marked "left" and "right" on the toe-caps but maybe they should be ;-)

[Cody Colston]

Wax it. My can of Johnson's has lasted for four years. I definitely would not use that high-dollar Renaissance wax on it.

[Tom Hintz]

I also have gone to the Boeshiled T-9 followed by Johnsons Wax. I used just the wax for years and the worked OK but the Boeshield has added that extra layer of protection and has ended the little discoloration I was having to remove occasionally around the edges of my cast iron tables where your hands touch when moving the machines.

[Norman Hitt]

Wax it. My can of Johnson's has lasted for four years. I definitely would not use that high-dollar Renaissance wax on it.

I have to respectfully disagree with you on this one, Cody.:D The reason I say this is that the Renaissance wax just does a MUCH better job than the Johnsons, "IF" you put it on properly, and done that way, it really takes a minimal amount of wax compared to the Johnsons, and for some reason seems to get down into the pores of the CI better and seal it.

1. Clean the CI with Kerosene, Mineral Spirits, WD-40 or whatever works
for you.
2. Clean any Oily residue off with thinner, or... and wipe dry with a clean rag.
3. Fold a small piece of T shirt material for a double layer and place a very
small amount of wax on it and rubbing Firmly (like you would when
"Spit Shining" Shoes) rub it in, in a circular motion in a Small area until it
starts getting dry and hardens, then add small dab of wax on rag and move to a
new spot. Work a Small area at a time.
4. When all the surface is covered, let it set over night and then buff
with a soft cloth, or even an electric buffer.

Note: Don't use ANY other product on the CI after cleaning before you use
the wax or it won't get into the pores of the CI as well.

I used Johnson's for many years, but had not been getting good results anymore with it for the past three years before I heard about and decided to try the Renaissance, and it really worked well for me. I put a second coat on about a week after the first one, (just as insurance) which was probably a good idea.

Anyhow, as with most things, YMMV.:D

[Frank Townend]

Renaissance Wax is currently on sale at Woodcraft (http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=08G22&FamilyID=3235).