behmler dyes? proper procedure?

[larry merlau]

i may have spelled it wrong but it is a alcohol based uv resistant dye for wood. i tried it threw a reccomendation from a sales person and rad the instructions even but wasnt pleased with my out come. could someone tell me there procedure for using such dyes. i put down one color medium golden wheat first then applied some old hickory brown to try and match some minwax aged oak gel stain. came out lookin like an antigue shellac that hadnt goot cracked yet :confused: i used a foam brush to apply it and then wiled off the piece then waited a bit and applied the brown in hoes of matching but the wood took to much of the yellow actually more orange then got darker yet with the hickory. so i wouled appreciate any help on the proper way to mix the stuff andc get better results or use better methods.

[Brian Riley]

Hey Larry...

I just did a project using dyes. They were the waterbased type so I can't say for sure if the alcohol based are any different in regards to mixing. Anyway I was trying to match a specific color and after doing test pieces I found I achieved better results when I would mix the different colors together before application. I got similar results as you when I applied one color then the next. Granted, doing a premix and testing the color takes longer but the results were much better.

I picked up a 12 pack of Mason canning jars with lids for storing the mixed dyes.


Brian

[Rob Sukach]

i'm in the process of using beher dyes on some bookcases.

like brian, i mixed the dyes together first and then applied the mixture in a single dying step.

rob sukach

[Donnie Raines]

larry,

If this is your first go with dyes, I would suggest that you try water soulable dyes first. they are much more user friendly. The type that you are useing evaporates very quickly...and really is intended to be sprayed on.

[Alan Turner]

I use TransTint dyes, from Jeff Jewitt, and am not familiar with the brand you mention. But, at least with the TranTins, they are very concentrated, and must be mixed with either water or alcohol. I wonder if yours are the same. If so, like Donnie mentions, the evaporation rate is so quick on alcohol that it hard to avoid lap marks, and therefore is normally sprayed.
For hand applications, I normally use a rag, as it is quicker, and therefore better to avoid lap marks. Get it on and off quickly as it soaks in very quickly. I use distilled water to cut it, as the iron in tap water can stain some woods, including oak and maple.
I prefer to use multiple coats of different colors to achieve diff. appearances. First usually honey amber, which is pretty yellow, with a bit of brown. Then a brown, or red brown, or whatever. I think the multiple coats works better than mixing all of the colors and doing one coat.
Using a dye to try to match a gel stain will be a tough one as the get stain is a pigment stain, and lays on the top of the wood, while the dye is a small molocule colorant, and soaks in. The gel stain will obscure the grain; the dye will not.
Good luck.
Alan

[Pete Rosenbohm]

I just finished a big job today using Transfast powder dyes from Jeff Jewitt, first time using dyes. Will probably not use stains ever again. Dyes are the way to go,always premix first and make-up samples. I sprayed on my dye and let dry for 6 hrs. then sprayed 2- coats of dewaxed shellac. Tomorrow i'll spray on 3- coats of Furhr 355 water-base varnish. Customer loved the samples that i did for him. Now just have to topcoat and deliver.

Pete

[larry merlau]

larry,

If this is your first go with dyes, I would suggest that you try water soulable dyes first. they are much more user friendly. The type that you are useing evaporates very quickly...and really is intended to be sprayed on.
thanks donnie/and the others who have commented on my question. you mentioned that they are intended for spraying, i am planning on getting one of the wagner hvlp guns like jim becker has the review of and could use your opinion on the proper procedure or pressure to spray it. i did end up with a color that matched the look of real old finish like an antigue peice would appear :) so will write some notes on what i did to get there. i thinki can salvage what i have for the project and will definatly try the water base in the future. i did like the the way it colored the wood and retained the depth of the wood. as for the gel stain i wont use it again right away it does look good but i had trouble with it.

[Donnie Raines]

Larry,

I would get with Jim B on the settings of that Wagner gun....I have seen it but have never operated one. I have HVLP system and love it...but I only use it for applying film finishes..not dyes. I always use the water base Moser or Transfast dyes.

Good luck and lets see some pix! ;)

[larry merlau]

Larry,

I would get with Jim B on the settings of that Wagner gun....I have seen it but have never operated one. I have HVLP system and love it...but I only use it for applying film finishes..not dyes. I always use the water base Moser or Transfast dyes.

Good luck and lets see some pix! ;)

pics will come as soon as its finished :) but havnt had alot time free to get it there need to make some feet for it first. i will talk with jim at the picnic, if he has time to chat with a beginner. have talked with the guy that sells the tool and he has been very helpful just like jim said he would be. do have some older pics to drop in here sometime if i get to far in debt on the pic bill :D thanks again donnie