Bandsaw Blades

[Brian Riley]

Good Morning....

I'm hoping to get some input in regards to bandsaw blades, what to get, widths, TPI, etc. I should be getting the bandsaw in about 2 weeks and wanted to make sure I have a good selection of blades that would cover most tasks from resaw through the standard scroll type work. I have heard a lot about Timberwolf blades and also the Wood Slicer was recommended for doing resaw work. The saw calls for a 149" blade however I must be looking in the wrong places since I can not seem to find blades that length. Do you all have custom lengths made?

The bandsaw is new to me so I also ordered The Bandsaw Book by Lonnie Bird. Any other books you would recommned?

Edit: The pre-made Wood Slicer shows a length of 150". Are there acceptable ranges that you can go with on the blades (i.e. a 149" saw could use a 148" - 150" blade) or should you just stick to the actual blade length that is specified?

Edit: Forgot to mention that I was gifted an older 12" bandsaw for whatever that's worth. Seems that I should be able to at least use that for some of the scroll type work and keep me from having to swap blades all the time on the larger saw.

Thanks much,
Brian

[Gary Whitt]

Brian, here is the Timberwolf link.

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/

They make them any size you want.
The site also covers the TPI, thickness, etc.

I own 4 of their blades, only used 1 and still on that one!

[Mark Singer]

One blade can servr a variety of tasks if well chosen. Try a 1/2" 4tpi timberwolf. Also The Best Things carries a 1/4" Morse skip tooth. On my bigger bandsaw I never change the 1" Lenox carbide varible pitch....it does everything but scrole...then I use a 3/16" on my 14" Jet

[Byron Trantham]

I like and use Timberwolf blades. Suffolk Machinery are great folks to work with. ;)

[Ken Salisbury]

Simply call Suffolk Machinery 1-800-234-7297 and explain your situation. They will help you. Great people to deal with. I use Timberwolf blades exclusively.

[Mark Kelly]

Anyone ever use Lenox Promaster II HSS Bi-metal blades? From what I read from Iturra, they are longer lasting than the regular Promaster I Carbon Steel blades. I cannot afford to purchase a Lenox carbide blade, and it seems the next best thing is to choose the Bi-metal blade.

I am unfortunately, a little discouraged in how quickly my Timberwolfe blade dulled. It was their silicon steel blade. It was a 1/2" and I cut maybe less than 10-20 BF of oak plus some pine on it and it dulled.

[Ken Garlock]

Hi Brian. Take time to call the folks at Ittura Designs, 1-888-722-7078. Get their catalog, it is an education in itself. There is a wealth of good information in the catalog, and I learned more from the catalog than I did from the Bird book. While you are at it, get some good(spelled Lenox) bi-metal blades.

[nic obie]

Mark,

Even though I mostly run a 1/2" carbide blade on my saw, I think a bi-metal blade gives you the most bang for your buck.

[Mark Singer]

I have had the Trimaster from Lennox on for over a year! It true that it is expensive....but I would have gone through 10 Timberwolf's and this blade looks brand new! That makes it a great deal. I think it is about $150, and 20 timberwolfs is about $500....another you get what you pay for story. The cut is as smooth as a Forrest WWII!

[Cecil Arnold]

I think Mark and Ken are giving good advice. I have used Timberwolf and Lenox and while I once leaned toward the T'wolf, Iturra has changed my mind.

[Jim Barrett]

Check out the Lenox Bi-metal 1/2" 6 tpi blade. That is what was used on David Marks bandsaws (MM 20 and a old Delta 20") when I was there last weekend. Purple heart went straight from the bandsaw to glue up for our bentwood lamination project.

Jim

[Carole Valentine]

I am unfortunately, a little discouraged in how quickly my Timberwolfe blade dulled. It was their silicon steel blade. It was a 1/2" and I cut maybe less than 10-20 BF of oak plus some pine on it and it dulled.
Mark, it seems to me that cutting pine kills band saw blades quickly. Don't know if it is the resin in the pine, or what. I thought it was just the pitch left on the blade, but after a thorough cleaning I found that the blade was indeed dull. Had it happen to both a Timberwolf and a Woodslicer. I may be wrong in thinking that pine is the culprit...maybe someone else can shed some light on that issue.

[Mark Kelly]

Well, then that means I will at least keep my old blade for cutting pine. I can still cut pine with the blade easily, although tracking is a bit off, but manageable. I think I'll try a bi-metal Lenox blade for everything else. I think for the price it is worth trying out.

Thanks for the info on these blades and on your experience with pine.

[juan christian]

I have looked for hours for some kind of comparison test of carbide band saw blades, with no luck. Has any magazine ever done such a comparison? I am perfectly willing to buy the best carbide blade on earth if I could determine which one that would be. I've found plenty of individual recommendations for this or that blade, but has anyone done an official comparison? Fine Woodworking? American Woodworker? Popular Woodworking? Woodworker's Journal? Help!!

[Barry Vabeach]

Juan, I looked for a magazine review of which blades last the longest and couldn't find one - I don't know if they think it would take too long to do, or that the results are just too subjective. Most posters agree that bimetal will outlast normal carbon steel, though it won't last as long as carbide.