how to build a router fence with adjustable bit clearance?

[keith ouellette]

I am now planning out my fence. It is going to be attached to the TS fence and is going to be a hollow rectangular box with DC on the end and have a t bolt slot across the top to attach feather boards etc.

I want it to have an adjustable front to be able to close and open the gap at the bit opening but am un clear how do do this.

Of course it needs to be easy to operate and be able to stay flush with the back and stay square with the table.

Any have any ideas?

I'll be out sanding my router plate.

[John Jendro]

This is the fence I'm going to build. Not sure if you are looking for something this fancy, but it could give you an idea how to go about it.

John

http://www.woodstore.net/rofe.html

[Cole Dunlay]

I used to have a fence of similar design and I outfitted it with the potential of zero clearance inserts. To do this, cut vertical grooves about 1/4" wide in the ends of the sliding fence pieces. Then make inserts out of material of the same thickness with tongues that will fit in the grooves.
To make a zero clearance insert put a blank insert in the fence with the router bit in the router. Turn on the router and slowly move the entire fence forward and let the bit cut its profile in the insert. If you're using a bearing guided bit, stop when the insert contacts the bearing, trace around the bearing with a pencil and then use a jig saw to cut out a space for the bearing. Finally, turn the router back on and continue moving the fence and insert through the bit. Hope this helps.

Cole

[keith ouellette]

This is the fence I'm going to build. Not sure if you are looking for something this fancy, but it could give you an idea how to go about it.

John

http://www.woodstore.net/rofe.html


I used to have a fence of similar design and I outfitted it with the potential of zero clearance inserts. To do this, cut vertical grooves about 1/4" wide in the ends of the sliding fence pieces. Then make inserts out of material of the same thickness with tongues that will fit in the grooves.
To make a zero clearance insert put a blank insert in the fence with the router bit in the router. Turn on the router and slowly move the entire fence forward and let the bit cut its profile in the insert. If you're using a bearing guided bit, stop when the insert contacts the bearing, trace around the bearing with a pencil and then use a jig saw to cut out a space for the bearing. Finally, turn the router back on and continue moving the fence and insert through the bit. Hope this helps.

Cole

John; I am looking for something with all the bells and whistles but I can't figure out how to make the bit opening change size unless I buy the plans and that particular fence won't work for me. thanks for the link though.

Cole; that sounds like a great idea. I understand how to make the zero clearance inserts from your description. Thank you.

But what do the two halves of the fence face slide back and forth on that allow them to be locked down easy and flush against the main fence body?

[Cole Dunlay]

Cut 5/16" slots in the fence (not the fence faces) and drill/countersink holes in the faces. Put 1/4-20 screws through the holes and into the slots and secure them with wing nuts. This allows you to move the fence faces without any tools. Just put a little pre-planning into the slots and hole locations. If they're in the wrong place the wingnuts may bump into fence supports and not be able to turn and if they're too low they'll be so close to the base of the fence they won't be able to turn. Don't ask me how I know.

[Bill White]

Route "t" slots in the backs of each of the moving fence sides. Align two bolts holes for each side. Slide 1/4" x 20 bolts into slots for each side and secure bolts to backer fence with star knobs. Loosen knobs to adjust fence sides.
Bill ;)

[John Keeton]

Keith, this may help - or not? http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=90392

[Joe Scharle]

I use my TS fence occasionally, but still have a separate R/T fence. It's especially handy when making molding strips from wide boards and ripping the thin strips on the T/S, one after another. Just a thought!

[keith ouellette]

Cut 5/16" slots in the fence (not the fence faces) and drill/countersink holes in the faces. Put 1/4-20 screws through the holes and into the slots and secure them with wing nuts. This allows you to move the fence faces without any tools. Just put a little pre-planning into the slots and hole locations. If they're in the wrong place the wingnuts may bump into fence supports and not be able to turn and if they're too low they'll be so close to the base of the fence they won't be able to turn. Don't ask me how I know.


Route "t" slots in the backs of each of the moving fence sides. Align two bolts holes for each side. Slide 1/4" x 20 bolts into slots for each side and secure bolts to backer fence with star knobs. Loosen knobs to adjust fence sides.
Bill ;)


Keith, this may help - or not? http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=90392

I started thinking along those lines last night though I had it a little backwards.

John; thats a nice fence. I may switch my thoughts on the design of my router fence a little. Your picture did help me orientate my thoughts on how the sliding face wings would hook together.