Making a TS ZCI

[Anthony Whitesell]

No one makes a throat plates for my Craftsman Tablesaw (1952-1954 King-Seeley). I would really like to make a ZCI, a dado, and a spare regular insert. The problem is that the throat plate is only ~0.085 thick, about 13 gauge sheetmetal (IIRC) and rests on a 1/8"-1/4" ledge with no levelling screws. Someone sent me pictures of a throat plate that had been machined from aluminum similar to this design with a replaceable insert

http://eagleamerica.com/betterley-tru-cut-insert-system/p/400-1090/

Not having the aluminum available at this point. I was thinking of getting a few of these plates and machining them to the correct size:

http://eagleamerica.com/phenolic-zero-clearance-inserts/p/400-1077/

Before I purchase them, can anyone tell me if I will be able to machine this material with woodworking tools (especially a router)?

As usual, any other options or ideas are greatly appreciated.

[Scott Loven]

You can work phenolic with carbide tools, router bit or saw blade. The same with HDPE.
Scott
I have a ZCI from peachtree for my old Sears TS
http://www.ptreeusa.com/zero_clearanceRef.htm

[Scott Schwake]

I bought a phenolic blank from Rockler for my Craftsman and had to modify it a bit by shaving off some of the material. I just used my router with a straght bit and it machined well:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=94792

[Anthony Whitesell]

Peachtree inserts are too new. I believe my model number is 103.20000.

My plan is to double side tape the old to the new and trim the new one to size. Then mount a rabbetting bit and recess the bottom appropriately while leaving my 0.085" thickness along the edge. This should be a neat trick.

[Prashun Patel]

Peachtree inserts are too new. I believe my model number is 103.20000.

My plan is to double side tape the old to the new and trim the new one to size. Then mount a rabbetting bit and recess the bottom appropriately while leaving my 0.085" thickness along the edge. This should be a neat trick.

Phenolic inserts are nice, but you can make excellent ones with 1/2" plywood or even mdf as well. Rough cut them with a band or jigsaw and then use a flush trim bit in yr router to get it perfect, and then a rabbeting but as you say to tune the depth of the lip.

I'm planning on making a few ZCI's this weekend. If you are ever tempted to work without the guard, you should consider making a few ZCI's for thinner stock (1/2") or (1/4"). In those, you can permanently glue some hardwood in the blade kerf close behind the blade.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Tempted to work without the gaurd? A gaurd wasn't a standard feature when the saw was sold, therefore there is no gaurd. Never has been.

Unfortunately, I don't think 0.085" thick wood would be strong enough to not crack, break, and fall into the saw.

Oh, yeah. A splitter. That's the other reason I persuing a homemade insert. I forgot about that.

[Chip Lindley]

Stop thinking in terms of the depth of the lip in your saw opening! I had a Sears 70s model saw which was just the same. That thin insert had a spring clip at one end and a small screw at the other. It Sux'd!

Consider making a Thick prototype insert of MDF before you use phenolic or aluminum. To get the radiused ends perfect, build a simple jig to fit in the miter slot to arc the blank past a sanding disc (either sanding machine or TS) at the pivot point of radius. Bandsaw just outside the radius line, and sand to the line exactly for an excellent fit.

Your opening has a *lip* all around! The ZCI will have to be undercut to fit. A thicker insert can be made if it is routed out to clear the inner edges of the *lip*. Time spent perfecting your prototype patterns in MDF will pay off. IF you desire, a thin aluminum or phenolic *surface could be epoxied to the thicker MDF for more stability.

With the thicker insert, you can consider milling a dovetailed slot about 1/4" deep in your *keeper* ZCI so that hardwood blanks can be changed, rather than making a whole new insert when it gets *too used*!

[Anthony Whitesell]

Chip,

The last paragraph I understand, and other than the dovetail slot was my plan. (I like the dovetail idea better than a square groove.

I have the original insert, so I have a template. Most inserts that I have seen are 3/8"+ thick, whereas mine doesn't even crest 1/10" thick. The primary issue I have is finding a material strong enough to hold the insert in place while only hanging by 0.085" of material (granted, all the way around). The thickness must be exact as there is no way to installing leveling screws. I don't think that wood that thin would be strong enough to stay together or stay in place.

Epoxying an aluminum sheet to the top may work if I can keep it flat. Keeping in mind that going this route would mean the aluminum overhang would be what supports the rest of the insert.

[Darius Ferlas]

I made a couple out of 8 mm laminate flooring material glued underside to underside. That was a little too thick for the opening in the TS so I did rabbeting along the edges action on the underside.

My TS won't allow the 10" blade to go low enough so I used a 7.25" blade (shown) to initiate the cut. I recently checked the insert and it's still flat with no sagging or bowing.

Total cost ... I dunno, but if you have a spare piece of laminate kicking around, or get a free sample from a store then it's pretty close to $0.10.

[Bill Huber]

I had a 1953 Craftsman table saw, it was only and 8 inch and the plate was very thin.

I ordered the phenolic blanks from Rockler and made my plates just like you are talking about.

Cut the phenolic down to close to the size I needed on the TS and then like you stated taped the old plate on top. Edge trimmed it to the size I needed and then use a rabbet bit set to cut away the under side until it cleared the castings. Just used a large bearing to start and then went one size smaller and so on until it cleared everything.

Then using a miter guide on the router table and a straight bit I cut what was needed from the front and back to clear the castings. Drilled a finger hole in it and glued a small nail in the back to keep it down. I used tape to shim it flat.

This is the plate for my current saw but the old one looks about the same only thinner at the top.


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