Replacing a compressor drain valve

[Eric Roberge]

Has anyone had to replace the drain valve on their compressor? I have a PC pancake and the darn valve leaks constantly. Poor design on PC's part, the valve is round with very little grip so I have to use pliers to open and close it. Yep, I'm one of the guys in the poll that voted "I drain after every use"
So now it would appear that if I tighten it too much it leaks too. There is just no pleasing me:rolleyes:
I'm not afraid to try to replace it, but is there a certain valve I should get or is this something I should let the PC repair center fix?
Thanks,
E-

[Tom Veatch]

I was forced to replace the drain valve on my portable compressor several years ago when I accidentally, forcibly removed it trying to roll it down a flight of stairs. I picked up one from the local orange borg that looks something like this (http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=3428375&PMT4NO=60765354). The "wing nut" handles make it fairly easy to open and close. It's worked well for me these last few years.

[Ben Franz]

Piece of cake - drain off any air and water, remove old valve w/wrench and install new butterfly valve with some teflon tape. You may be able to find the valves at the BORG, otherwise, most supply houses have them in stock.

[Dan Friedrichs]

The wing nut ones are stocked at the orange borg, I believe. However, I think they seem awfully flimsy for regular use.

I intentionally removed mine and replaced it with some pipe fittings and a 1/4-turn ball valve. The hole in the tank is tapped for a standard sized NPT fitting that you can also find in the plumbing isle at the borg. Get some fittings and a ball valve, and you'll never have to worry about it again...

[Ted Baca]

If you have room on a pancake, I don't own one. Mine is a std tank and I installed a ball valve it is easy to use and never has leaked.
If you have room and the ball valve is too high get a brass elbow.

[Cary Falk]

I replaced mine with one from the orange BORG. Piece of cake.

[Glen Butler]

They are simple enough to replace for you to do it yourself. Most are just a 1/4 pipe. Where you like to drain everyday a ball valve is the way to go. There is also a nifty newer valve that is just a thumb screw. Unlike the wing nut type they take very little torque to keep the air from coming out. I think they have a rubber seat unlike those older wing nut style.

[Joe Jensen]

Simple, but spend an extra buck or two and buy a 1/4 turn ball valve. SOOOO much nicer to use. The borg has ones with the right thread size to replace compressor drain valves.

BTW, compressor drain valves, the butterfly style that need multiple turns, have to be one of the worst engineered designs in history.

[Eric Roberge]

Thanks guys! I didn't even think of the ball valve. I'll look to see how I can make it work with my pancake.
E-

[Curt Harms]

The wing nut ones are stocked at the orange borg, I believe. However, I think they seem awfully flimsy for regular use.

I intentionally removed mine and replaced it with some pipe fittings and a 1/4-turn ball valve. The hole in the tank is tapped for a standard sized NPT fitting that you can also find in the plumbing isle at the borg. Get some fittings and a ball valve, and you'll never have to worry about it again...

My portable is a little Craftsman. I could never maintain pressure in the tank, that silly drain would always leak. I drained the tank, removed the drain, put in a street ell and 1/4" nipple about 8" long. Put a 1/4 turn ball valve on the nipple. Now any water sits in the nipple, not in the tank, it's easy to reach the ball valve to drain and it doesn't leak.

Curt

[Eric Roberge]

Curt,
If I'm picturing this correctly, you have a 90 deg. Ell off the bottom, the nipple and then the ball valve? Do you tip the tank to extract the H2o when draining or will the air pressure force it out?

[Randal Stevenson]

Curt,
If I'm picturing this correctly, you have a 90 deg. Ell off the bottom, the nipple and then the ball valve? Do you tip the tank to extract the H2o when draining or will the air pressure force it out?


Not Curt, but as long as you drain regularly, the water will accumulate in the nipple behind the ball valve, then get blown out by the air pressure.

[Terry Brogan]

Harbor Freight sells a pressure-driven drain valve that drains automatically every time the compressor cycles for $10 plus shipping.

[Dave Sweeney]

The wing nut ones are stocked at the orange borg, I believe. However, I think they seem awfully flimsy for regular use.

I intentionally removed mine and replaced it with some pipe fittings and a 1/4-turn ball valve. The hole in the tank is tapped for a standard sized NPT fitting that you can also find in the plumbing isle at the borg. Get some fittings and a ball valve, and you'll never have to worry about it again...

+1 This method make draining the moisture out of the compressor a piece of cake.

[Chris Tsutsui]

Note, that on some compressors, there's not enough room to buy aftermarket drain kits so make sure you have clearance.

My 33gal coleman hardly has any room since the drain valve is really close to the ground.

You can buy a replacement valve off Amazon.com, but shipping will kill the price and make it like $6+. It's generally cheaper through Amazon than it is to buy the part from a dedicated compressor repair website.

I actually wasted money ordering a drain valve when I could have just built my own using a ball valve and elbow joint. It's sort of a pain accessing the drain valve where it is and twisting/untwisting it.

Keep in mind that the drain valve is a bolt inside a bolt, which on my compressor.. that goes into another threaded adapter. heh

I'd get the brass valve if you do buy one. It's easy to install with a wrench, no need to take it to a repair place.

[Paul Greathouse]

One caution on the ball valves. I put one on my old Sears pancake when the wingnut type finally failed. It stuck out too far and the compressor would sit on it instead of its feet.

I found a smaller round knurled knob drain at the blue borg that fit just fine. The drain looks real similar to the one on my new PC pancake.

[Stephen Edwards]

Could someone please post a photo of how they modified their drain with a ball valve, please?

Thanks!!

[Eric Roberge]

Thanks guys for the quick replies. Here is the finished product tested and working like a charm. Two piece fix and total cost was $12 at the BORG.
I really wanted a ball valve as the knurled (hand tight) ones don't seem to last long.

Stephen, Hope the pic helps;)

[Stephen Edwards]

Hey Eric,

Thanks so much for the photo. It helps a lot for to understand your solution. Thanks again, I'm gonna rig this up on mine, too.