Can this old JET bandsaw be saved??

[Jason White]

Not sure I'd call this a gloat, but I was in a parking lot and saw a 14" JET bandsaw sitting next to a dumpster. Looking at all the rust on it, I'm guessing it was sitting there for quite some time.

Turns out it belonged to a builder who was doing a commercial job. I asked if he was throwing it out and he said I could have it. Basically described it as an old piece of crap and that I was welcome to it. Since I don't have a bandsaw (and can't afford one right now), it seemed like a no-brainer. So in the back of my pickup it went.

Pictures are here...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/15863123@N04/sets/72157615862947662/

It's a JET JBS-14, serial #83-2862. Made in Taiwan. Definitely needs some work. The wheels turn, but the tires are shot. The belt is trashed, but the motor does operate. That's a big plus in my book!

Anybody know anything about this saw? The motor says it was built in 1983. Can I still get parts for this machine? I've never had or used a bandsaw, so I'm wondering what I should be looking at and what parts are likely going to need replacing.

Thanks for any help you guys can give me!

Jason

[Michael Schwartz]

The rust should clean up pretty easily, and I don't see why you couldn't make it work. Not a particularly great machine to start out with but if its free who cares. With a bit of hardware, new tires etc.. you should be able to get it up and running and tune it up. Doesn't look like its in that bad of shape, I have seen far worse. Hey and I guess best part was it was free.

As far as parts call Jet and see if they still stock replacement parts for your machine.

Other than that pretty much anything can be obtained from other sources.

Pretty much the parts that you might need to replace would be v belt, tires, bearings, guild bearings, and possibly the motor/switch and wiring. Band saws are quite simple, not allot of parts to deal with. There are a number of good books out there on tuning bandsaws as well as using them, you should probably check them out.

[Jason White]

What are some good upgrades for a saw like this?

I've heard the newer "urethane" tires are good. What about blade guides, replacement belts, etc?

Jason

[Chris Tsutsui]

That doesn't seem in too bad of condition...

Before you invest too much in refurbishing it, I would print out parts manual if you can find one on the net.

Take it apart, and clean the components individually and figure out what parts/bolts need replacement. Make a cost list and determine if it's worth it. (could you resell it on CL to make your money back)

For heavy rust, I use rust remover that is easier to use than sand paper. Though I still use some sand paper on some parts or a heavy abrasive pad. The top should be smooth to the touch, but when it has rust scale on it, it will be rough and uneven. A sanding block makes quick work of the table top rust.

Urethane tires would be good.

You can also replace the belt with a linked belt. You can remove links to adjust belt diameter.

Replacing the bearings might be needed if the bearing has play or is gritty/worn.

The Carter ball bearing guides I have on my Delta are IMO the best guides you can get. These will run about $100+ though.

A cheaper option is a cool block type of guide.

You can also source a new tension spring.

Since this bandsaw is "free", you have a good starting point. Though if you have to pay several hundred dollars for a new motor + other parts, then I don't think it will be worth saving the saw.

When I refurbish tools, what I like to do is claybar the painted surfaces to remove scuffs, oxidized paint, and overspray. Then I give all the painted surfaces a good coat of synthetic wax or sealant to make it supper slippery to help with cleanup. WD-40 can help clean bolts. Vinylex or 303 Aerospace works well on plastics.

Just make sure there's nothing major wrong with the saw before you start buying parts for it.

[Pete Bradley]

This machine's not bad at all. Nothing major obviously broken or missing, needs tires and cleaning up.

Now...forget the "upgrades". Replace the tires (rubber or urethane is fine), replace the guide bearings, and square up whatever guide blocks it has. Get a good quality solid machine belt. Clean the table and put in a new insert and pin. Get everything tuned up. This article is a good reference:
http://www.ccwwa.org/plans/BandsawTuneup3.pdf

Finally, enjoy your saw and start getting experience. You'll quickly develop a feel for what's important and what's not.

Pete


Here are before and after for mine (and unlike you I had to pay for it in the "before" condition!):
http://owwm.com/photoindex/images/2233-A.JPG
http://owwm.com/photoindex/images/2233-C.JPG

[Jason White]

Are bearings difficult to replace? Would I need the original JET bearings?




That doesn't seem in too bad of condition...

Before you invest too much in refurbishing it, I would print out parts manual if you can find one on the net.

Take it apart, and clean the components individually and figure out what parts/bolts need replacement. Make a cost list and determine if it's worth it. (could you resell it on CL to make your money back)

For heavy rust, I use rust remover that is easier to use than sand paper. Though I still use some sand paper on some parts or a heavy abrasive pad. The top should be smooth to the touch, but when it has rust scale on it, it will be rough and uneven. A sanding block makes quick work of the table top rust.

Urethane tires would be good.

You can also replace the belt with a linked belt. You can remove links to adjust belt diameter.

Replacing the bearings might be needed if the bearing has play or is gritty/worn.

The Carter ball bearing guides I have on my Delta are IMO the best guides you can get. These will run about $100+ though.

A cheaper option is a cool block type of guide.

You can also source a new tension spring.

Since this bandsaw is "free", you have a good starting point. Though if you have to pay several hundred dollars for a new motor + other parts, then I don't think it will be worth saving the saw.

When I refurbish tools, what I like to do is claybar the painted surfaces to remove scuffs, oxidized paint, and overspray. Then I give all the painted surfaces a good coat of synthetic wax or sealant to make it supper slippery to help with cleanup. WD-40 can help clean bolts. Vinylex or 303 Aerospace works well on plastics.

Just make sure there's nothing major wrong with the saw before you start buying parts for it.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Jason,
I had this machine back in the 1980s. It was typical of the quality of most Taiwanese offerings of that time...which was OK but nothing special. These class of machines offered a low price point compared to Delta and Powermatic machines which is what made the Taiwanese offerings so attractive to home hobbyists as myself.

Overall operation was fine. The main issue was that some casted parts are a bit crude which meant you may have to fumble with them to set them correctly. I eventually upgraded to an 18" bandsaw mostly because I wanted more resaw power, and a larger throat for scroll cuts. However, I would have upgraded even if I owned a Delta 14" bandsaw.

Your machine is definitely worth some modest restoration work. Some parts, like the throat plate insert, missing knob on the table trunnion, and missing pin in the table's blade slot, can be easily replaced. I recommend cool blocks because they are low cost option that work very well; They also allow you to run 1/8" blades for tight scroll work.

At no cost, no tax and no shipping fee, I think it's a good find and a great addition to a new home shop.

-Jeff :)

[Curt Harms]

Bearings should be available from a bearing & drive store. Link belts are nice but they ain't cheap, a cogged V belt might give a better bang for the buck. It looks like the slot in one of the table trunnions may be cracked. I suspect a trunnion from a Harbor Freight 14" band saw might fit, or a Grizzly 1019. If the motor runs and you can find a trunnion that fits (don't worry about it if you don't want to tilt the table) the rest shouldn't be that hard or expensive.

Curt

[Jeffrey Makiel]

As Chris mentioned, only change the bearings if you feel slop or hear noise. Otherwise, I'd leave them be. Also, I second Curt's recommendation to use a cog belt for cost reasons.

Here are some possible sources for generic parts (bearings, belts, etc.) ...
Mcmaster Carr (mcmaster.com)
Grainger (grainger.com)

-Jeff :)

[Bob Aquino]

This machine's not bad at all. Nothing major obviously broken or missing, needs tires and cleaning up.

Now...forget the "upgrades". Replace the tires (rubber or urethane is fine), replace the guide bearings, and square up whatever guide blocks it has. Get a good quality solid machine belt. Clean the table and put in a new insert and pin. Get everything tuned up. This article is a good reference:
http://www.ccwwa.org/plans/BandsawTuneup3.pdf

Finally, enjoy your saw and start getting experience. You'll quickly develop a feel for what's important and what's not.

Pete


Here are before and after for mine (and unlike you I had to pay for it in the "before" condition!):
http://owwm.com/photoindex/images/2233-A.JPG
http://owwm.com/photoindex/images/2233-C.JPG


Uh, yeah, but that ain't no Jet... ;)

[Alex Shanku]

That machine is almost 30 years old. I would most definitely change the bearings on it and the motor. I bet your bearing cost would be somewhere around 15-20 bucks or so.

"AX" style belts (cog) are superior to link belts, imo. Much cheaper, too.

If your wheels dont have a crown machined into them, urethane isnt the way to go. Its too thin to crown. I would go with EPDM rubber tires (look to Iturra Designs) and 3M 4799 adhesive. This way, you can crown your tires using any one of a number of methods. The rubber tires are a few bucks cheaper, also.

My $.02

[Alex Shanku]

Also, looking again at your pictures, if you can address the broken trunion, as was mentioned earlier, I think your two thrust bearings are just 6202's. Those are a $2-3 bucks a piece.

[Chip Lindley]

Jeez Jason! I was expecting a moth-eaten orange Bucket Of Rust! Others have given your solid advice about cleaning up the saw. It is not only *saveable*--it does not even look to be in *mortal danger*! I've seen 10 times worse FS on CL!

[Jason White]

Interesting. I didn't even notice the crack!

Maybe I can order one from JET.

JW


Bearings should be available from a bearing & drive store. Link belts are nice but they ain't cheap, a cogged V belt might give a better bang for the buck. It looks like the slot in one of the table trunnions may be cracked. I suspect a trunnion from a Harbor Freight 14" band saw might fit, or a Grizzly 1019. If the motor runs and you can find a trunnion that fits (don't worry about it if you don't want to tilt the table) the rest shouldn't be that hard or expensive.

Curt

[Jason White]

The existing belt is a "V" type belt, which I've read bad things about.

How does a "cog" belt differ?




That machine is almost 30 years old. I would most definitely change the bearings on it and the motor. I bet your bearing cost would be somewhere around 15-20 bucks or so.

"AX" style belts (cog) are superior to link belts, imo. Much cheaper, too.

If your wheels dont have a crown machined into them, urethane isnt the way to go. Its too thin to crown. I would go with EPDM rubber tires (look to Iturra Designs) and 3M 4799 adhesive. This way, you can crown your tires using any one of a number of methods. The rubber tires are a few bucks cheaper, also.

My $.02

[Alex Shanku]

The existing belt is a "V" type belt, which I've read bad things about.

How does a "cog" belt differ?


Rotates around small diameter pulleys easier. AX belts are "v" shaped, just cogged to allow them to "bend" easier.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#ax-section-v-belts/=15lxz2

Motion Industries sells for a cheaper price, however.

[Alex Shanku]

The existing belt is a "V" type belt, which I've read bad things about.


What have you heard "bad" about v belts?:confused:

[Jason White]

JET just emailed me a manual with parts list. Luckily they do still stock replacement trunnions and some other parts for this saw. I didn't ask about prices, since I don't know what all I need yet. I imagine parts from JET will be expensive, though.

I suppose a cheaper option might be to find somebody with the same saw looking to "part it out."

Jason


Bearings should be available from a bearing & drive store. Link belts are nice but they ain't cheap, a cogged V belt might give a better bang for the buck. It looks like the slot in one of the table trunnions may be cracked. I suspect a trunnion from a Harbor Freight 14" band saw might fit, or a Grizzly 1019. If the motor runs and you can find a trunnion that fits (don't worry about it if you don't want to tilt the table) the rest shouldn't be that hard or expensive.

Curt

[Jason White]

What's a 6202?



Also, looking again at your pictures, if you can address the broken trunion, as was mentioned earlier, I think your two thrust bearings are just 6202's. Those are a $2-3 bucks a piece.

[Jason White]

Vibration issues, which I believe is why people like the link belts so much. I could be wrong, of course.


What have you heard "bad" about v belts?:confused:

[Alex Shanku]

6202 is a standard size bearing.

An old, "dead" belt is not optimal. A new AX v belt runs more quietly than a link belt, and is also vibration free. Vibration can be caused by pulleys that arent true, bad bearings, etc. I run 1 link belt in my shop and the rest cog v belts. Non of my machines vibrate.

Plus, I think no matter what you do with that bandsaw, you may get vibrations as its not all that heavy.

[Curt Harms]

JET just emailed me a manual with parts list. Luckily they do still stock replacement trunnions and some other parts for this saw. I didn't ask about prices, since I don't know what all I need yet. I imagine parts from JET will be expensive, though.

I suppose a cheaper option might be to find somebody with the same saw looking to "part it out."

Jason

It's a pleasant surprise that they still stock parts for that saw, although those parts may be common to other models as well. I haven't ordered parts from Jet but wouldn't be surprised if they're spendy. It appears the only Jet part you need is the trunion. Bearings, belts and such can be sourced locally. I think ya done good!

[Phil Thien]

This machine's not bad at all. Nothing major obviously broken or missing, needs tires and cleaning up.

Now...forget the "upgrades". Replace the tires (rubber or urethane is fine), replace the guide bearings, and square up whatever guide blocks it has. Get a good quality solid machine belt. Clean the table and put in a new insert and pin. Get everything tuned up. This article is a good reference:
http://www.ccwwa.org/plans/BandsawTuneup3.pdf

Finally, enjoy your saw and start getting experience. You'll quickly develop a feel for what's important and what's not.

Pete


+1. The stock guides are fine. New tires (there is a place on eBay, Sulfur Creek or something that has them at a good price) and new bearings are all you need.

[Dennis McCullen]

Not sure I'd call this a gloat, but I was in a parking lot and saw a 14" JET bandsaw sitting next to a dumpster. Looking at all the rust on it, I'm guessing it was sitting there for quite some time.

Turns out it belonged to a builder who was doing a commercial job. I asked if he was throwing it out and he said I could have it. Basically described it as an old piece of crap and that I was welcome to it. Since I don't have a bandsaw (and can't afford one right now), it seemed like a no-brainer. So in the back of my pickup it went.

Pictures are here...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/15863123@N04/sets/72157615862947662/

It's a JET JBS-14, serial #83-2862. Made in Taiwan. Definitely needs some work. The wheels turn, but the tires are shot. The belt is trashed, but the motor does operate. That's a big plus in my book!

Anybody know anything about this saw? The motor says it was built in 1983. Can I still get parts for this machine? I've never had or used a bandsaw, so I'm wondering what I should be looking at and what parts are likely going to need replacing.

Thanks for any help you guys can give me!

Jason
I bought mine new and have used it only occasionally for scroll work. I put new tires on it twice; orange-colored urethane the last time. I started researching resawing a while back and found I needed a much better blade and a good fence system so I made both a flat fence and a point fence (which often seems preferred). I did not look up the H.P. rating of this saw but feel it is not a good choice for resawing all but the narrowest of stock. AS far as longevity - all the parts are still operational - no bearings since new, only blades and tires. It has been a fine saw for what I've used it for - sawing both tight and gentle curves and with the right high tooth count narrow blade, allowed me to do things ordinarily done on a scroll saw (I do not own one, nor feel the need.). I came across this entry because I am just beginning to search for info on what kind, size, and power I may need if I choose to upgrade to a saw for resawing. I'll be curious to see if you have updates and what path you have since taken with the JBS-14. Happy Holidays!

[Zachary Hoyt]

I recommend urethane tires from Sulfur Grove Tool on eBay, I bought a set for my 18" Jet bandsaw and they have been great. They're a little stiff to put on but they don't dry out and crack like rubber will eventually. V belts are fine, I use them on everything. Maybe something else will be better, but they'll also be more expensive in my experience. I make my own throat plates out of thin aluminum plate, I get it from metalremnantsinc on eBay. You'd just have to check the depth of the recess that it goes in to find out how thick your new plate needs to be.
Zach

[Bob Elliott]

That saw is beyond repair. You should send it to me for proper disposal.

jusk kidding.

i think the other posters covered the bases pretty well. The good news is you can buy upgraded replacement parts that you would want to put on a new saw anyway. In the end you'll have a decent tool for a low investment.

i have a Delta dust collector that I got for free with a burned out motor. Drops used an unusual shaft end and has a very high cost on a replacement motor. I used a friend's lathe and made a steel adapter that I put on an old motor I had in the shop. I use that dust collector every time I make sawdust.

I grabbed an old Delta still press that was sitting in the rain at work. It was really rough and looked terrible. I took it apart and used Muriatic acid to get the rust off it. The spindle runout is negligible and I have a very high quality tool that I use often. It is a benchtop model made in 1968 from the serial number on the tag.

if you are like me you won't be afraid to do some work to get a good deal. Congratulations on the "new" bandsaw.

Bob

[Nike Nihiser]

Kind of an old thread, 9 years plus

[J. Greg Jones]

Just curious if everyone noted that the original post is almost 10 years old?

[Earl McLain]

Just curious if everyone noted that the original post is almost 10 years old?

I noticed the original post date right away, but am now curious to know how the refurb on the Rusty Jet came out!!
earl