Gate Hinge Table Saw Splitter

[Prashun Patel]

Just thought I'd pass this tip along:
I made a shopmade splitter from a gate hinge. By hacksawing through one of the bolt holes, it can slip easily over the bolts that hold the stock splitter. I tapered the front edges with a mill file. It took about 5 minutes to make. It works great, and I feel a little safer on narrower cuts with my GRRRIPPER.

Someone else had this idea long back:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=17871&highlight=hinge+table+splitter (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=17871&highlight=hinge+table+splitter)

I'm planning to make a few more at differing heights and differing horizontal projections out of appropriately sized galvanized L brackets. I'll be able to use different ones for different blade heights, which is a poorman's B rate solution to the lack of riving knife on my saw.

[John Thompson]

I made these from a cheap Johnson 12" framing square from the BORG. Just drilled a hole up from the bottom and used my Bosch barrel grip with a metal cutting blade. Filed the front edge as you and it slides right over the splitter hold bolt.

Good move on your part as you will find them very useful in certain situations..

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=1061828&postcount=11

Sarge..

[Jason White]

Please post pictures!



Just thought I'd pass this tip along:
I made a shopmade splitter from a gate hinge. By hacksawing through one of the bolt holes, it can slip easily over the bolts that hold the stock splitter. I tapered the front edges with a mill file. It took about 5 minutes to make. It works great, and I feel a little safer on narrower cuts with my GRRRIPPER.

Someone else had this idea long back:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=17871&highlight=hinge+table+splitter (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=17871&highlight=hinge+table+splitter)

I'm planning to make a few more at differing heights and differing horizontal projections out of appropriately sized galvanized L brackets. I'll be able to use different ones for different blade heights, which is a poorman's B rate solution to the lack of riving knife on my saw.

[Prashun Patel]

ain't much to see; the fat side goes down in the throat and slips over the top 1/2 of the guard bolt and is held in place with the nut and washer.

[John Thompson]

ain't much to see; the fat side goes down in the throat and slips over the top 1/2 of the guard bolt and is held in place with the nut and washer.

Love the reply and truer words have never been spoken. Life on the home-made splitter assembly line is welll... somewhat simple. :)

Well done, Shawn...

Sarge..

[Dell Moore]

Hey there, I think I'm a bit confused on the actual application of this. Are you attaching this to your insert? Can you put a side view pic of it attached to your insert and saw, by chance?

Thanks,

Dell

[John Thompson]

Hey there, I think I'm a bit confused on the actual application of this. Are you attaching this to your insert? Can you put a side view pic of it attached to your insert and saw, by chance?

Thanks,

Dell

"ain't much to see; the fat side goes down in the throat and slips over the top 1/2 of the guard bolt and is held in place with the nut and washer". Shawn...

It attached to the original spliiter bolt and nut which gives it much more stability.. not the insert.

Sarge..

[Bill Blackburn]

Don't imagine they make something thin enough to use with a TK blade tho? I used to use somethings similar we created in the old day shop classes in school and they always fine for regular kerfs.

I just busted off a MicroJig spliiter last night and am less than happy with the things. I can't locate the metal enclosed ones except thru the mail and bot they charge a lot for a little IMO.

[Gary McKown]

Bill, check the Borg for steel mending plates - different sizes come in various thicknesses, and also already have holes drilled.

[Bill Blackburn]

Great Idea Gary - never would have thought mending plate.

I've used in past some rules filed and filed down for the TK and they still real iffy and almost to large. Had a bind or fifty and scred me to death.

Thanks for this idea -- bet it's a winner!

[Prashun Patel]

The gate hinge works with my TK ripping blade.

[Mike Gager]

why not use the stock splitter?

on my ridgid saw the splitter is part of the blade cover and attaches at the rear of the saw, not through the insert. i just removed the blade cover and use the splitter by itself with the anti kickback pawls. it works great

[John Thompson]

Gary is correct on the BORG as I have used the mending plates. for that matter I have pieces of shelf bracketing.. etc. laying around that would would work.. And... Shawn just posted his will work with TK.. Keep in mind that hinges come in various lenghs.. widths and thicknesses.

Good luck but I don't think you will need luck here...

Sarge..

[Bill Blackburn]

why not use the stock splitter?

on my ridgid saw the splitter is part of the blade cover and attaches at the rear of the saw, not through the insert. i just removed the blade cover and use the splitter by itself with the anti kickback pawls. it works great


The stock splitter won't work with the PSI Overhead DG or I would.
It's the create thy own way nowadays

[Dell Moore]

PSI Overhead DG?

[Prashun Patel]

My guard mounts through the insert; I see yr confusion.

I try to use my guard when possible, but for ripping narrow stock, I can't get a pushstick between the guard and the fence. And that's when kickback risk is high.

My guard doesn't remove easily from the splitter; I'd have to destroy the guard, which I still want to use in many cases.

I find a splitter like this is especially good with a GRRIPPER, which can't have a guard in place.

I looked into mounting diff size brackets for different blade heights. Truth be told, it's probably easiest to just have a bunch of different ZCI's with the splitter mounted on that appropriately. It's easier to switch a throat plate than a splitter, anyway...


Anyway, I like my little Shiv!

[Bill Blackburn]

PSI Overhead DG?


Yes - this one. I did a ceiling mount instead of the side mount.
It's been decent for collection off the blade and while the back maybe could be cut and modified to use the stock splitter I don't care to do so and ruin it.
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/TSGUARD.html?mybuyscid=3558481647&utm_source=mybuys&utm_medium=webrecs&utm_campaign=mybuyswebrecs

[Jason White]

John, can you please show how yours attaches to the saw?

Thanks.

Jason




I made these from a cheap Johnson 12" framing square from the BORG. Just drilled a hole up from the bottom and used my Bosch barrel grip with a metal cutting blade. Filed the front edge as you and it slides right over the splitter hold bolt.

Good move on your part as you will find them very useful in certain situations..

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=1061828&postcount=11

Sarge..

[John Thompson]

"John, can you please show how yours attaches to the saw"?


Thanks.


Jason
**********
Here ya go... really simple Jason. The U slot slides over the splitter bolt just as your stock splitter and you tighten the nut. In the picture I am not using the stock 5/16" bolt as you will see a 5/16 rachet lever that makes it a quick release. I had 5/16 bolts on my Uni-saw and my Steel City 5 HP. You have to check your saw to see what the size is if you ever decide to to with a ratchet type bolt.

Click on a picture to enlarge if you don't know, BTW.


Sarge..