What do folks with Shark Guards do when you use a sliding cross cut table?

[Chas Richter]

I'm totally reworking the dust collection in my shop with an Oneida V-3000 on order and trying to redo every collection point on my tools.

I cobbed up a 3 in port on my Delta overarm guard years ago.
I am thinking of re-building it with a 4" port or getting (and waiting 10 weeks or so) the Shark Guard. The one upside with the overarm is it can ride over the cross cut table, although its a bumpy ride and is far from perfect.

Has anyone ever put a polycarbonate plate with port bridging the fences of a sliding table?

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x275/c2rower/100_3383.jpg

[Andrew Duncan]

I'm not sure I understand the question at the end of your post, but I use a sliding table with a Shark Guard and the SG rides up over the sliding table fence, forward and back, with no problem. Probably wrong, but I seem to recall that an early version of the SG was made to fit Lee's saw with a sliding table.

Your existing guard retrofit looks more than pretty good. I think lot's of SG user's end up partially closing the waste gate when doing cross cuts so that the off-cut doesn't get sucked up. In other words, your 3 incher may be all you need. That said, I really really like my SG.

[Randal Stevenson]

I am thinking of re-building it with a 4" port or getting (and waiting 10 weeks or so) the Shark Guard. The one upside with the overarm is it can ride over the cross cut table, although its a bumpy ride and is far from perfect.

Has anyone ever put a polycarbonate plate with port bridging the fences of a sliding table?


The Sharkguard can be removed from the knife, at least on some of the models (I believe all, but refer to Lee). What your talking about in the second sentence, the terminology, is a crosscut sled.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=103829

There are more threads on it, but those are the keywords.
As for using it with a sliding miter table, I know with the BT series, it works (I believe Lee's original saw). I don't know why it wouldn't with any others.

[Chas Richter]

I need to slow down and make my posts more concise.

What I want to say is that my TS is the most used tool in the shop, and yet is the worst offender for producing airborne dust (my little chop saw is a close second).
I think I can improve this situation during ripping by going to a blade cover that has a good sized port and a baffle at the front to rein in the particles being shot forward. Delta really could have done a better job in designing the overarm guard that I have. As I mentioned before, I could spend some time and effort re-engineering the guard shroud or tossing the overarm assembly and getting the Shark Guard.
Cross-cutting is the other operation that needs to be put under control for dust and I not sure it will be as easy. I guess I am soliciting your ideas and thoughts. Here is what I currently have:
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x275/c2rower/100_3386.jpg
As you can see, the overarm guard can go along for the ride, with some limitations as it rides up onto the front fence. I am toying with the idea of removing the overarm for crosscutting and having a way to tie the soon to be hanging 4" dia hose to a port on a plate tha covers the workpiece on the cross cut sled. Here is a picture showing a quick mock up of the concept:
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x275/c2rower/100_3387.jpg
The cover, I'm thinking, would contain most of the top side dust. Has anyone done this or a variant? Pictures would be great. Thanks for sharing your ideas. By the way, in both cases the base of the saw will be serviced by a 5" dia duct.

[jerry nazard]

Chas,

Yes, you are on the right track. My overarm guard has a 4" port serviced by a quick-disconnect fitting on the mating hose. The same hose services the 4" port on the cover of my sled. It takes just a few seconds to make the switch.

-Jerry