Freud 10" Industrial TK Glue Line Ripping 1st impressions

[Jim Kirkpatrick]

I use Forrest WWII TK blades for general crosscutting and plywood cuts. When I need a ripping blade I usually just head down to my local HD and pick up a Freud Diablo blade. $30. Cheap and quick. And it works pretty well...at least better than ripping with the Forrest blade. When the Diablo gets dull, I repeat the process and buy another new one.
At my last Woodcraft visit, the clerk sold me on the Freud Industrial TK Glue Line Ripping blade (http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=842617&FamilyID=20101). He was touting the carbide they use on the industrial line equal if not better than that of Forrest's. For $65, I thought it worth a try.

I've only used it so far on some 3/4" poplar. I must say I am impressed. No burn marks whatsoever and the finish it left could be easily cleaned up with 320 grit sandpaper. I'm crappin ya negative, it's that smooth. I really think it could eliminate a post-rip pass on the jointer. If you're in the market for a new ripping blade, I recommend it highly.

[Larry Edgerton]

I use them on my 12" Minimax. Awesome, second only to FS Tool, but quite a bit cheaper. I think Forrest is overrated myself. I use Freud Ultimate Cutoffs in chop saws and have one for my Omga RAS that works well too.

[Frank Trinkle]

$69.00 at Amazon and eligible for Prime (Free Shipping):)

[Tony Bilello]

I use Forrest WWII TK blades for general crosscutting and plywood cuts. When I need a ripping blade I usually just head down to my local HD and pick up a Freud Diablo blade. $30. Cheap and quick. And it works pretty well...at least better than ripping with the Forrest blade. When the Diablo gets dull, I repeat the process and buy another new one.
At my last Woodcraft visit, the clerk sold me on the Freud Industrial TK Glue Line Ripping blade (http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=842617&FamilyID=20101). He was touting the carbide they use on the industrial line equal if not better than that of Forrest's. For $65, I thought it worth a try.

I've only used it so far on some 3/4" poplar. I must say I am impressed. No burn marks whatsoever and the finish it left could be easily cleaned up with 320 grit sandpaper. I'm crappin ya negative, it's that smooth. I really think it could eliminate a post-rip pass on the jointer. If you're in the market for a new ripping blade, I recommend it highly.

Keep in mind that that the Freud DIABLO blades are their bottom of the line blades that are sold generally only to discount houses. When you see the 'DIABLO' name, that is the tip-off. Just thought I'd mention it for future reference.
I generally only used Systimatic blades and slowly converted to Freud which I now think is a better blade.

Some other stuff to keep in mind is that Freud blades will cut best with only 1/3 to 1/2 of a tooth exposed past the height of your work. This is in the design and is not just safety hype although safety is exactly what spurred this design. Because of this design, not every saw sharpening shop is set up for or aware of this and will quickly ruin your blade. The Freud website lists recommended sharpening services.

I build fine furnituire and do not own a joiner. With a good Table Saw and a good blade you should get a nice smooth even cut and a joiner is not necessary.

BTW, I have no connections to or investments in Freud. I am just a satisfied customer.

[Bruce Page]

I can only concur. The Forrest WWII lives in my Unisaw 80% of the time, the rest of the time I'm doing ripping with my Glue Line Rip.

[William Long]

The specs say that the GLR is for up to 1". Anyone use it over that and have good results? If your a Forrest dude, I believe the WWI is for ripping, correct?

[Tom Jones III]

The specs say that the GLR is for up to 1". Anyone use it over that and have good results? If your a Forrest dude, I believe the WWI is for ripping, correct?

There are 2 models of the glue line rip, one of them handles the thinner stock and the other handles thicker stock. I've got the one handling thicker stock and it rips 3/4" beautifully.

Just to second what has been said, I have frequently glued up a panel straight off the TS with this blade rather than taking a pass on the jointer.

[Brad Townsend]

Maybe I'm missing something here, but I can joint the edge of a board a LOT faster than I can change out a blade in my tablesaw.:) Perhaps if I were doing some heavy production with repetitive ripping, it would make sense. For the average woodworker though, I don't see it. I bought the Freud Glue-Line Rip a couple of years ago on sale in a weak moment but I don't use it because it's just more trouble than it's worth.

[Tony Bilello]

Maybe I'm missing something here, but I can joint the edge of a board a LOT faster than I can change out a blade in my tablesaw.:) Perhaps if I were doing some heavy production with repetitive ripping, it would make sense. For the average woodworker though, I don't see it. I bought the Freud Glue-Line Rip a couple of years ago on sale in a weak moment but I don't use it because it's just more trouble than it's worth.

I rarely change blades because of a cut. I normally use a general purpose blade for every cut on a project. A good general purpose blade will also give a smooth ripping cut that can be used for glue-up.
Companies like Freud, Forrest and Systimatic produce quality blades throughout their whole product range. Specialized blades like the GLR blade are generally used in larger production shops that have dedicated saws. All the average home woodworker will ever need is a good general purpose blade.

[Joe Spear]

The specs say that the GLR is for up to 1". Anyone use it over that and have good results? If your a Forrest dude, I believe the WWI is for ripping, correct?

No. The WWI is mainly a crosscutting blade with 60 teeth, although Forrest says it's good for ripping up to 2" thick. I never use mine for ripping. There is a WWII with 30 teeth instead of 40 that is a decent ripping blade and also crosscuts fairly well. Forrest does make a 20-tooth ripping blade.

[Tom Henderson2]

Maybe I'm missing something here, but I can joint the edge of a board a LOT faster than I can change out a blade in my tablesaw.:) Perhaps if I were doing some heavy production with repetitive ripping, it would make sense. For the average woodworker though, I don't see it. I bought the Freud Glue-Line Rip a couple of years ago on sale in a weak moment but I don't use it because it's just more trouble than it's worth.

Many of us don't have jointers......

[Joe Spear]

The WWII does a great job for ripping boards, up to about 1 1/2" thick, that are ready right off the saw for edge gluing, without passing over a jointer. If I had to true the faces of rough lumber, I might get a jointer, but for edges, the tablesaw has been good enough.

[timothy harwell]

I agree that a good general purpose blade is all most people will ever need. However, if you like dedicated blades for ripping, crosscutting, etc., changing out the blade takes about 1 minute, if that. I think its really a matter of personal preference.

[Tom Henderson2]

Some other stuff to keep in mind is that Freud blades will cut best with only 1/3 to 1/2 of a tooth exposed past the height of your work. This is in the design and is not just safety hype although safety is exactly what spurred this design. Because of this design, not every saw sharpening shop is set up for or aware of this and will quickly ruin your blade. The Freud website lists recommended sharpening services. [/quote]

Where did you see this?

The Freud reps were in town a couple weeks ago, and they suggested setting up with half a tooth showing, but didn't say anything about cut quality.

I'm not arguing; just want to learn more....

-TH

[Tom Henderson2]

The specs say that the GLR is for up to 1". Anyone use it over that and have good results? If your a Forrest dude, I believe the WWI is for ripping, correct?

I recently purchased a thick-kerf GLR blade. I haven't used it much, but did notice a significantly poorer cut quality on 2" thick stock compared to 1". It still wasn't bad, though; a couple passes with a hand plane cleaned it up nicely.

BUT -- my saw is a 1-1/2 horse Contractor saw, so at least part of the problem may have been the saw not having adequate power.

I did buy an LU87 rip blade that doesn't have the stock thickness limitation, and it did fine even on my puny CS.

-TH

[Tony Bilello]

About the only time I change out blades (other than my dado) is when I have to rip 2" or thicker lumber. I have the Delta Contractor Saw which is just a tad underpowered for the thick stuff. I also have a poor electrical source which doesnt help matters much. Then I will use a ripping blade.

[Adam Grills]

I have a GLR with coating from Freud and have used it alot (many many bft) from 1/2" to 2 1/4" thick stock, mostly hardwood some softwood. I always glue up after cutting (never the jointer after) and have top notch glue line. Top qualtiy and low price IMO.
Adam

[Tony Bilello]

Better cutting edges and better tools will allow us to skip steps from time to time.
I am putting together a shop from scratch and a joiner is not even on my list of stuff I need.

[Adam Grills]

Better cutting edges and better tools will allow us to skip steps from time to time.
I am putting together a shop from scratch and a joiner is not even on my list of stuff I need.

Guy, there are loads of things that you don't need in a shop...
but a jointer is one of them !
Adam

[Andrew Joiner]

Better cutting edges and better tools will allow us to skip steps from time to time.
I am putting together a shop from scratch and a joiner is not even on my list of stuff I need.

Many of us don't have jointers......

I'm a non-jointer guy too! Maybe we should start a cult.

Years ago my first glue line rip blade cost about the same as a good used jointer and even that was well worth the price. I loved it. Right from the saw to gluing. No chip out in curly grain woods. No pushing down on heavy long stock to keep it on a jointer table.

[Rick Mellin]

You can use the best blade that money can buy, but nine times out of ten that board is filled with stress and after your first rip the board will twist or warp, maybe not alot but enough to require jointing.

[Chris Schumann]

I have Freud's heavy duty rip for thicker stock. Used it on some 8 foot ash poles last weekend and the cuts were beautiful. I plan to use it on 8/4 ash for my new workbench coming up.

[Rick Fisher]

I use a freud glue line rip and a woodworker II. On 1" stock, I believe the GLR leaves a better finish.

I have ripped 2" with it and cut quality goes down hill fast. Most noticable is burning.

I find that I only really cut plywood on the tablesaw anymore. The GLR blade is in a drawer.. I have been using the WWII..

[scott spencer]

Maybe I'm missing something here, but I can joint the edge of a board a LOT faster than I can change out a blade in my tablesaw.:) Perhaps if I were doing some heavy production with repetitive ripping, it would make sense. For the average woodworker though, I don't see it. I bought the Freud Glue-Line Rip a couple of years ago on sale in a weak moment but I don't use it because it's just more trouble than it's worth.

I don't think you're missing anything Brad. I've owned two good 30T TCG GLR's (Freud and CMT) but just never seem to find a reason to keep them around. Most decent blades with 24 teeth or more will leave a glue ready edge right off the saw without help from the jointer. I tend to glue up "as is" from whatever blade is on my saw. If you've already got a decent blade, I see little gained by getting a dedicated GLR unless you're using it in a dedicated ripping situation on 1" or less material. The GLR won't crosscut well, and won't rip well in thicker materials so it has a very limited range...I see swapping in the GLR as an added and unnecessary step (and expense). What does the GLR offer that other good rip and general purpose blades don't?

[Andrew Joiner]

Thanks Scott,

You are right. I know you've tested a lot of blades too. Your opinion is valued by me.

The blade I called my "first glue line rip blade" was probably just a good combination blade it was 1970 so I don't remember the brand.

What I should have said was my "first glue line ripping experience".

Many blades now will give a glue joint cut. The amazing thing to me is the cost. My first blade to give a glue line rip cut was around $100. Now it's $15 to $30. At $15 a sharpening I will start tossing dull blades.

[scott spencer]

Better cutting edges and better tools will allow us to skip steps from time to time.
I am putting together a shop from scratch and a joiner is not even on my list of stuff I need.

A jointer's primary function is two fold....flatten a face, and an adjacent edge. Saw blades only handle the "edge" portion of that equation. An uneven face will translate to an uneven edge....a "smooth" uneven edge if you use a good blade!;) How does the non-jointer crowd handle uneven board faces? I know handplanes work, and a planer can be coaxed into flattening with a planer sled.

Andrew....with a last name of "Joiner", isn't owning one a prerequisite? :D

[James Adinaro]

I have Freud's heavy duty rip for thicker stock. Used it on some 8 foot ash poles last weekend and the cuts were beautiful. I plan to use it on 8/4 ash for my new workbench coming up.

+1 on the Heavy Duty Rip. I used it to rip a boatload of 8/4 hickory for my bench with great success.

I normally run a full kerf WW2, and that would have been dicey.

[Andrew Joiner]

How does the non-jointer crowd handle uneven board faces?

Andrew....with a last name of "Joiner", isn't owning one a prerequisite? :D

I buy flat S2S or S3S lumber. If I want to flatten a face I use a sled.
Flattening with a planer sled is like a power feed jointer!

A well made rip sled and planer sled can easily do the job of a big jointer. For me it's easier, faster, cheaper and one less machine to maintain.

My middle name should be Sled!:D

Any chance you want to join the Cult?:D

[scott spencer]

I buy flat S2S or S3S lumber. If I want to flatten a face I use a sled.
Flattening with a planer sled is like a power feed jointer!

A well made rip sled and planer sled can easily do the job of a big jointer. For me it's easier, faster, cheaper and one less machine to maintain.

My middle name should be Sled!:D

Any chance you want to join the Cult?:D

Sign me up for the sled cult! (my kids will love it!) :D