Aluminum faceplate vs steel vs stainless

[Mark Norman]

Any pros and cons of using the aluminum faceplate? They are less $ and wont rust but will they hold up over time?

Is stainless steel worth the extra $. I want quality on a budget:)

If this has been discussed elsewhere please post a link for me thanks,
Mark

[Judy Kingery]

Hi Mark,

I'd recommend using stainless steel faceplates for sure worth the extra $ to me anyway. I tried an aluminum one and I'm sure others can tell you the physics thereof, i.e. heat/expansion-contraction; but it'd jam so tight to the spindle to where you couldn't get it off. Some folks may use a washer and so on, but it was just a hassle to even mess with.

Never have had a problem with steel/steel meshing like that at all. So I found the aluminum ones to be far more a pain than the savings - and the steel face plates so very easy to work with. Just my two cents; I'll stick with my steel face plates.

Best to you on your inquiry.

Jude

[Mark Norman]

Thats the kind of input I am looking for. Glad I asked befor I made the purchase.
Where do I get the best deal on steel faceplates?
I was looking at this set-up. i realy like it. http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Lathe_Accessories___Screw_Centers___Faceplates___F aceplate_System___faceplate_system?Args= (http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Lathe_Accessories___Screw_Centers___Faceplates___F aceplate_System___faceplate_system?Args)=
Anyone have experience with it?

[Ron McKinley]

Yes, I've had the system for several years and I wouldn't recommend it.

It has a notch for a spanner wrench to separate the two pieces and I've never found that wrench. Instead, I use a big set of slip joint pliers and lock the headstock to loosen it.

The holes for the mounting screws are too close to the part that screws into the headstock, requiring a long screwdriver mounted in your cordless drill and even then you can't get the screws in straight so I angle them in.

It works but it's always a hassel mounting and unmounting a piece. I would strongly recommend a simple, straight-forward faceplate. Just my opinion.......Ron

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree with Ron. I had the same thing and it was a hassle for me also. Get the straight faceplates.

[Mark Norman]

I guess I'll stick with the status quo steel faceplate.
Where to get a good deal on em? say 4 to 5" and a 1-1/2 x 8?

[Larry Marley]

I guess I'll stick with the status quo steel faceplate.
Where to get a good deal on em? say 4 to 5" and a 1-1/2 x 8?

1-1/2 x 8?

or 1-1/4 x 8...

[Ron McKinley]

I forgot to mention that this was a great idea but poorly executed.......Ron

[Ron McKinley]

I guess I'll stick with the status quo steel faceplate.
Where to get a good deal on em? say 4 to 5" and a 1-1/2 x 8?

I've been turning for a little over three years and have never found a need for a faceplate over 3". I can turn 16" over the ways and much more by swiveling the headstock but just don't run into pieces much over 14" and a 3" faceplate is fine for that. Others may differ and your mileage may vary.:) .......Ron

[Judy Kingery]

Ron, glad to be of any suggestions - I bought mine from Crafts Supplies USA. They were great, sent them back the alumuninum one never expecting any refund, full refund and bought a steel 2" face plate and an 8" and a 10". Work great!

Best to you,

Jude

[Mark Norman]

1-1/2" larry, I plan on turning medium to large bowls in the 14" to 24" range.

Ron, see above^^ I am building my own lathe and I'm all about overkill. 1-1/2 seems to be the standard for big stuff and I think (operative word here) I would want bigger than 3" face plate for +12" blanks that may be out of balance.

[Dick Sowa]

Each kind of faceplate has its place. I have several Don Pencil aluminum faceplates and use them all the time. In fact, I have one permanently mounted on a donut chuck I made. The only disadvantage, as I see it, is that they aren't available beyond 3" dia. For really out of balance blocks, they probably aren't the best choice. But for blanks that are pretty well balanced, I can't see how it makes much difference. Even then, they come with more screw holes than most chucks...so maybe they are actually better than steel for holding odd shaped blanks.

As far as screw access, I use a cordless drill with a 6" long phillips driver...never had an issue with access to screw heads.

For what it is worth, my spindle is 1-1/4 x 8. So I went to the local hardwae store, picked up a sink drain gasket...perfect fit for the spindle, and have never once had a chuck jamb too tight to easily remove.

[David Walser]

Mark,

I have several of Don Pencil's aluminum faceplates. I think they are great. I went to a bowl turning demo by Bill Grumbine today. He used an aluminum faceplate for his first bowl. I don't know whether the faceplate was one he brought with him or was supplied by one of our club members. Still, he talked a lot about faceplates, proper screws, and related topics. If he thought an aluminum faceplate wasn't up to the job, I think he would have mentioned it. He did say, for example, that most turners believe a faceplate needs to be larger thatn it really does. He said the faceplate he was using (about 3" in diameter) was more than adequate for a 16" bowl.

By the way, Bill's demo was great and very entertaining. If you have a chance to see him, make sure you do.

[Don Eddard]

I've also got several Don Pencil faceplates, and have had no complaints or problems with them.

[alex carey]

I have two face plates. The one that comes with the mustard monster which I absolutely hate and the Oneway 6" faceplate which I absolutely love. I have never turned over 30" inches but when I turned this big I used the 6" and it seemed to work perfectly. I can't imagine needing a bigger faceplate. I know the next size up by Oneway is 10" but I just don't see where that comes in handy. The 6" has done everything I've asked and I usually don't even use every screw hole. I usually only use like 8 to 12 holes.

This guy is 19" and weighed around 80# when I first started. I didn't use the tailstock and I used 10 1 1/2 inche hex screws. I would get one of these faceplates, it is the best quality and will handle as big as you can handle.

Alex

[Mark Norman]

The reason I ask is I plan on building my own bowl lathe.

I bought a el-cheapo HF lathe to see if I want to turn wood. As it turns out;) I didn't care so much for turning spindles but I really would like to turn medium to large bowls as I mention (in the 14" range).

In order to build the lathe I need to work a lil backwards. To get the spindle machined I need to determine a few basics of the design and keep cost in mind the whole time.

I want to provide the machinist with the parts that will be in contact with the spindle so he can be assured of the fitment after machining and prior to heat treating the spindle.

I was convinced I needed to go with the bigger is better mentality but I decided on scaling it back a little. I actually bought the bearings today that will determine the size of the spindle and the size of the faceplate/chuck threads. I went with 1-3/4" material and plan on using 1-1/4" threads (Yes Larry, you did influence my choice:):)) I was going to go with a 2" spindle and 1-1/2" threads.

On the other end of the spindle I will need a groove for the sheath and I'll have it also threaded the same for outboard turning if I ever feel the need.

With the investment in all the components for the lathe I wont likely be buying another faceplate for a while (serious sticker shock when I saw the cost of a good chuck:eek:). For $25 I can get an aluminum faceplate with the 1-1/4 threads I need to move forward with the build.

I plan on getting one good bowl gouge and a good scraper and that's looking like it will take the better part of $100 if I make the handle myself.

Thanks for the input and critique is welcome...

[Dave Ogren]

Mark,
I just want to mention a few items for you to think about. Heat treating the spindle....it will probably warp during heat treating which means after the H.T. it should be ground. Why bother to heat treat ??? With out heat treating the spindle I.D will be easier to clean up if you have a gauling problem with the #2 Morse Taper. Also on the out board end put in an internal thread for a vacuum hook up which means a hole the length of the spindle also not a big deal. I would think that the length of the 1 1/4-8 threads would be important so that you could have a relief for a set screw to lock the chuck on, so that you run in reverse to sand or turn out board, the chuck or face plate will not unscrew, this will also make the threading easier for the machine shop to "single point" the threads. That is real important, you cannot use a thread die and have the threads concentric to the shaft. Good luck and keep letting us know how this is going.

Dave

[Mark Norman]

Thanks for the input Dave, It is appreciated.

Now ya have me wondering if I want the spindle heat treated or not. I was thinking the threads would hold up beter if I did.

I didn't plan on a through hole or a MT at all for my prototype, just threaded ends for faceplate/chuck mounting this go-round. I need to keep the cost down and if I felt the need, I could have another spindle machined at a later date. Like I mentioned I will have the face plate in hand when I visit the machine shop to assure the fitment on the threads of the spindle. I'll ask the machinist about a through hole and MT and see if it will fit in the budget. If I dont have it heat treated I could add the MT and through hole later...Hmmm
I just spent a good chunk of change on the motor, a VFD and an 18" pulley today and as soon as I get the faceplate I ordered yesterday I will visit the machine shop and see what its going to take to get the spindle fabricated for me.
I'll keep you all posted on the progress in any case. This is turning out to be a fun project....