Router bits to start

[David Song]

Hi,

As a newbie,when I to visit places like Woodcraft, there are sooo many bits to choose from. I don't mind buying sets or individual. I just don't know where I need to start. Having said, what is a must have or recommended router bits for wood worker?

To give bit more info, I'm a newbie who at this point is interested in building small household items. The project I'm thinking of doing right now is long key holders with bunch of hooks that I want to mount next to my door.

Please recommend bit type and brand.

btw, I used a search function with the word "router" and got over 20 pages of result. Just bit too much for me to sort through.
Thank you!

[John Nixon]

Hi David,

I recently wrote a small article on this topic. This is just my opinion for what I have found to be the primary bits I think every beginner should have:

Here's an exerpt from the article:

I believe the router table is one of the most useful and versatile tools in the shop. There's no other machine that can do so many different operations. The wide variety and vast selection of router bits available today makes it even easier to do more with your router.

Beginning woodworkers often opt to buy a router bit set that contains a plethora of various carbide nuggets. It's true that you certainly get more bits for the money when you buy a router bit set, but is it really a better value? The reason it might not be a better value is due to the fact that you probably won't regularly use a majority of the bits in the set.

I put together a list of four must-have bits for any woodworker that uses a router. This list works nicely for the beginning woodworker as an alternative to buying a bit set. It may be a shock at first to spend $20 to $50 or more on a decent single bit, but when you get a lot of use (and longevity) out of that bit, the price becomes justified.

If you're interested in which specialty bits I use, check out this article (http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/What-are-your-Favorite-Specialty-Router-Bits.aspx).

http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/projects/images/roundover.JPG
Roundover Bit

A small roundover bit is a nice way to "knock off" the sharp edge of a board. Using a roundover bit will ensure a consistent rounded edge along the length of the board. Roundover bits come in different sizes to produce a different sized radius on the board's edge.

I recommend getting a small one and a medium size one (1/4 roundover and 1/2 inch roundover would be good). Larger roundover bit can be used to create a bullnose (1/2 round on the edge of a board, like a stair tread).

http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/projects/images/chamfer.JPG
Chamfer Bit

Ideal for beveling and decorative edges, and can also be used for for producing a 45° edges for mitres. The chamfer bit is also a nice way to "knock off" the sharp edge of a board. It's common to see chamfered edges or ends on Arts and Crafts furniture.

The nice thing about a chamfer bit is that unlike a round over bit that produces a certain radius, a chamfer bit is just an angled bevel, so you can buy a fairly big bit and always cut a small chamfer with it.

http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/projects/images/solidcut.JPG
Solid carbide spiral upcut bit

The solid carbide spiral upcut bit is a versatile bit that can be used for rabbits, dados, tenons & mortising.

There's a lot of straight cutting bits to choose from. If you have a plain old straight fluted cutting bit, you really need to try a spiral bit. The solid carbide spiral bits costs more, but are well worth the extra in my opinion - the cut faster, eject chips better, and last longer.

http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/projects/images/flushtrim.JPG
Bearing guided flush trim bit

For use in trimming laminates and pattern routing. 1/2 inch diameter by 1.5 or 2 inch length is good

Pattern routing is a technique that copies a pattern that is the exact size as your final piece by using a flush cut bit to trim your workpiece flush with the pattern. The workpiece is first roughed to a size slightly larger than the final dimensions, and then the pattern is stuck to the workpiece with double sided tape during the routing operation. The bearing rides along the pattern and trims the workpiece flush with the pattern.

A pattern bit can also be used to easily trim veneer or laminate even with its substrate. The veneer or laminate is purposely left oversized and then trimmed flush using a bearing guided flush trim bit.

Specialty varieties of this bit include a solid carbide spiral version, or a bit with the bearing located above, below or both above and below the cutter.

The original article can be found here:
http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/What-Router-Bits-Should-a-Beginning-Woodworker-Buy-First.aspx (http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/What-Router-Bits-Should-a-Beginning-Woodworker-Buy-First.aspx)

[chris dub]

To start I would get the $60 version of this set in a heart beat.

http://www.amazon.com/WHITESIDE-401-SHANK-BASIC-ROUTER/dp/B000AM31QI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1237586461&sr=1-1

That is the best price I have seen for this set. Whiteside is rated as one of the best if not the best brands around. I just bought a round over set from them and was pleased with the service and the price was great.

I am in the process of upgrading my cheap 24 bit 1/4" starter set with reputable 1/2" shank bits. Unfourtunately I didn't see the set above in time. I don't regret getting the cheap set first because 1) it wasn't that expensive and 2) I figured out which bits I wanted to upgrade. But the cheaper bits don't last as long and depending on how cheap can burn the wood, might not leave smooth cut or worse are more prone to break, at 20K RPMs:eek:.

You will hear the same brands: Whiteside, Infinity, Amana, Eagle America, Freud and CMT as the tops. MLCS, Woodline, Woodcraft and Holbren (if you can find 'em) as good values.

If you start with a smaller set of bits look to Holbren (for Whiteside's), Amazon and MLCS for the one off bits. They have the best shipiping rates. Otherwise picking up a one off bit can get pricey when you have to pay an extra $7 shipping.

Most sets are just the basic profiles in multiple size profiles. A 30 bit set will give you the most used profiles with 2-3 sizes. A 99 pc set will give you a couple of additonal sizes in the same profile.

[David Song]

How about these? Not much more than Whiteside but also reputable, right? Is it overkill?

http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8369-2-Inch-Carbide-tipped-30-Piece/dp/B001NXC6ZA/ref=sr_1_34?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1237591117&sr=8-34

[Dave Falkenstein]

Another good choice - Whiteside starter set from Holbren:

http://www.holbren.com/product.php?productid=440&cat=0&page=1

Also available in 1/4" shanks.

For economy bits, it is hard to beat Woodline. Their bits are guaranteed for life!

http://www.woodline.com/c-230-router-bit-sets.aspx

[keith ouellette]

I ordered one of these from price cutter ( what they were called at the time) to start out with and even though they are supposed to be china junk I found them to be very impressive.
The carbide was just as thick as Frued bits I compared them to and they make very smooth cuts. They were not this expensive when I bought them.

http://eagleamerica.com/buddys-70-piece-master-bit-sets/p/P19-7001/

Now I would probably consider this one which is much less money.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/set66.html

[glenn bradley]

My MLCS bits all went fast, a few Rocklers are still around, Woodcraft's bits last longer than I would have expected and they are having their $5 sale right now (http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4892). I generally pick up a chamfer and a stright bit when that sale is on. The bits I have that have stood the test are Whiteside and Freud.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I would keep an eye out for the Woodcraft $5 bit sale. They have a great number of bits that you will find useful. To the above bits, I would add rabbeting bit with different bearing sizes. I would also suggest a couple of different sized roundovers.

Doc

[scott spencer]

I'm also a fan of top shelf bits like Whiteside, Infinity, Freud, or Eagle America, but I understand that a newbie may not want to spend that much for so few bits to "cut their teeth on" so to speak. I'd suggest the Whiteside basic set, then add some individual bits as needed. Using the "SMC10" code gets you 10% from Holbren, plus free s/h over $75....so ~ $80 shipped.

Small sets can be a wise purchase, but I don't recommend buying a huge set of low quality bits for a lot of money. Poor quality bits can be dangerous, and many of the profiles are near duplicates of other profiles.

[chris dub]

What do folks tihnk about Amana bits? They seem pricier than Whiteside, Freud and Infinity. Are they in the same class?

[Lee Koepke]

What do folks tihnk about Amana bits? They seem pricier than Whiteside, Freud and Infinity. Are they in the same class?
I believe Amana bits are generally ( or originally ) intended more for heavy commercial / industrial use, so not in the same class, as the others are geared to less intensive use.

I had seen that Amana was producing another line geared for non industrial users.

[glenn bradley]

What do folks tihnk about Amana bits? They seem pricier than Whiteside, Freud and Infinity. Are they in the same class?

I have a large Amana pattern bit that I love but they are pricey. I got it for half price when Rockler stopped selling Amana and blew them out.

[Bill Huber]

As a newbie I say buy them as you need them and get good ones, I like Eagle and Whiteside.

I got a set of bits when I started out and to date I have not use 3/4 of them and the ones I have used are dull.

Now I buy a bit when I need it.

I will add that John Nixon's 4 bits are a really good place to start and get good ones. I would also get all 1/2 inch when you can and just skip the 1/4 inch bits.

[David Song]

Hi David,

I recently wrote a small article on this topic. This is just my opinion for what I have found to be the primary bits I think every beginner should have:

Here's an exerpt from the article:

I believe the router table is one of the most useful and versatile tools in the shop. There's no other machine that can do so many different operations. The wide variety and vast selection of router bits available today makes it even easier to do more with your router.

Beginning woodworkers often opt to buy a router bit set that contains a plethora of various carbide nuggets. It's true that you certainly get more bits for the money when you buy a router bit set, but is it really a better value? The reason it might not be a better value is due to the fact that you probably won't regularly use a majority of the bits in the set.

I put together a list of four must-have bits for any woodworker that uses a router. This list works nicely for the beginning woodworker as an alternative to buying a bit set. It may be a shock at first to spend $20 to $50 or more on a decent single bit, but when you get a lot of use (and longevity) out of that bit, the price becomes justified.

If you're interested in which specialty bits I use, check out this article (http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/What-are-your-Favorite-Specialty-Router-Bits.aspx).

http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/projects/images/roundover.JPG
Roundover Bit

A small roundover bit is a nice way to "knock off" the sharp edge of a board. Using a roundover bit will ensure a consistent rounded edge along the length of the board. Roundover bits come in different sizes to produce a different sized radius on the board's edge.

I recommend getting a small one and a medium size one (1/4 roundover and 1/2 inch roundover would be good). Larger roundover bit can be used to create a bullnose (1/2 round on the edge of a board, like a stair tread).

http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/projects/images/chamfer.JPG
Chamfer Bit

Ideal for beveling and decorative edges, and can also be used for for producing a 45° edges for mitres. The chamfer bit is also a nice way to "knock off" the sharp edge of a board. It's common to see chamfered edges or ends on Arts and Crafts furniture.

The nice thing about a chamfer bit is that unlike a round over bit that produces a certain radius, a chamfer bit is just an angled bevel, so you can buy a fairly big bit and always cut a small chamfer with it.

http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/projects/images/solidcut.JPG
Solid carbide spiral upcut bit

The solid carbide spiral upcut bit is a versatile bit that can be used for rabbits, dados, tenons & mortising.

There's a lot of straight cutting bits to choose from. If you have a plain old straight fluted cutting bit, you really need to try a spiral bit. The solid carbide spiral bits costs more, but are well worth the extra in my opinion - the cut faster, eject chips better, and last longer.

http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/projects/images/flushtrim.JPG
Bearing guided flush trim bit

For use in trimming laminates and pattern routing. 1/2 inch diameter by 1.5 or 2 inch length is good

Pattern routing is a technique that copies a pattern that is the exact size as your final piece by using a flush cut bit to trim your workpiece flush with the pattern. The workpiece is first roughed to a size slightly larger than the final dimensions, and then the pattern is stuck to the workpiece with double sided tape during the routing operation. The bearing rides along the pattern and trims the workpiece flush with the pattern.

A pattern bit can also be used to easily trim veneer or laminate even with its substrate. The veneer or laminate is purposely left oversized and then trimmed flush using a bearing guided flush trim bit.

Specialty varieties of this bit include a solid carbide spiral version, or a bit with the bearing located above, below or both above and below the cutter.

The original article can be found here:
http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/What-Router-Bits-Should-a-Beginning-Woodworker-Buy-First.aspx (http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/What-Router-Bits-Should-a-Beginning-Woodworker-Buy-First.aspx)

Hi,
after I read your comment about how solid carbide sprial upcut bit is recommended over regular straight bit, I visited this web:http://www.holbren.com/manufacturers.php?manufacturerid=3
and found that there are numerous solid carbide upcut bids. Would you be kind enough to point out one or two specific model/size.

Thank you, David

[David Song]

Couple more questions,

-what is the difference between downcut and upcut bits in general?

-If I wanted to cut a channel/line 1/2" wide, 15" long, and that goes all the way thruout 3/4" plywood, which router bit do I use?

thank you!

[Bill Huber]

Couple more questions,

-what is the difference between downcut and upcut bits in general?

-If I wanted to cut a channel/line 1/2" wide, 15" long, and that goes all the way thruout 3/4" plywood, which router bit do I use?

thank you!

An Up Cut will pull the chips out of the cut and a Down Cut will push the chips down.

I think the down cut would be the best for what you are doing, this would give a better, cleaner edge. I would also say you do not what to make that cut in just one pass.

[keith ouellette]

I think you could get a slot cutter that wide. Some of them are adjustable kinda like a mini dado blade.

As far as up cut and down cut it refers to the force the bit puts on its cutting stroke. wether the shear angle ( I think thats what its called) forces the wood fibers up towards the shank or down towards the tip. Hope I explained it the way i meant it. And thought I would add that none of the price cutter bit set bits I used the most are dull yet. I can't speak for the mcls because i haven't used those.

[Curt Harms]

I find this little guy useful:
113631
I use one that is 1/2" diameter and 1/2" cutting height for dadoes and hinge mortises among other uses. The advantage of bearing guided bits over bushing guided bits to me is you don't have to factor in any offset when cutting patterns. If I need a certain hinge mortise I nibble out the exact size opening with a flat top grind saw blade. Run the bit around the opening, square up the corners and done. The lower cutting height means it will work with 3/4"thick guides/patterns nicely. If you use plywood for cabinets you'll find that not all 3/4" plywood is really 3/4" but often a bit less. I clamp a straight piece of 3/4" MDF on either side of the dado, route with a pattern bit and it's a perfect fit every time regardless of mating stock thickness.

I live very close to MLCS so have several of their bits. They seem to have decent lives but the Freud & Infinity are a step up. I've bought Woodline bits at shows and I think they're a little better than MLCS. I don't have any Whiteside bits but Holbren has Whiteside bits for a very attractive price for frequently used cutters.

HTH

Curt

[Chris Kennedy]

I recommend finding an inexpensive starter set to start with. When I first got my router, my FIL bought me a set of Vermont American bits -- yes, not the greatest, but adequate. There are plenty of bits in there that I don't use very much, but I have them when I need them. And as someone pointed out, it made me realize which bits I use a lot and make it worth investing in better quality.

Cheers,

Chris

[Mark Godlesky]

Woodcraft has ten basic profiles on sale for $5 each. They are the WoodRiver brand and I have found them to be quite serviceable. At that price it's hard to go wrong, and you won't be buying a bunch of bits you never use like you would in a set.

Also, if you use a trim router you will need a few 1/4" shank bits. A couple of times I've gone to use my trim router only to find I had the profile I wanted to use in 1/2" shank.

[Greg Hines, MD]

Woodcraft has ten basic profiles on sale for $5 each. They are the WoodRiver brand and I have found them to be quite serviceable. At that price it's hard to go wrong, and you won't be buying a bunch of bits you never use like you would in a set.

Also, if you use a trim router you will need a few 1/4" shank bits. A couple of times I've gone to use my trim router only to find I had the profile I wanted to use in 1/2" shank.


Actually, they have 20 bits they have offered at the $5 price.

Doc

[Mark Godlesky]

Doc,
The flyer only listed ten. What other profiles did they have? Are they both online and at the stores?

Thanks,

Mark

[glenn bradley]

Doc,
The flyer only listed ten. What other profiles did they have? Are they both online and at the stores?

Thanks,

Mark

Online it looks like there are only four styles left for this promotion as of this writing but, it comes back.

[Greg Hines, MD]

Doc,
The flyer only listed ten. What other profiles did they have? Are they both online and at the stores?

Thanks,

Mark

I think they change it from by year. One year, they will have one set, and then the next year, they will have another set.

The first year that I bought them, it was 1/2" and 3/8" straight, 14 deg. dovetail, 1/4" and 1/2" roundovers, rabbeting, ogee, 1/2" cove, 1/2" chamfer, and a 1/2" flush trim bit that has a 1" cutter length.

The second year, they included a 3/4" pattern bit, 1/2" flush trim bit with a 1/2" cutter length, 1/8" and 5/8" straight, 1/4" slot cutter, core box, V-groove, 1/2" beading, 3/8" cove and a 1/8" round over.

It is one of those things that you need to keep an eye out for them. They offer them in the stores and online. As to going to the stores, my Woodcraft in Nashville usually has plenty of them. I have found them to be decent bits, not great, but not bad either. I use them all the time, and they are a good place to start a new router user.

One thing that I did was get a couple of extras bits that I figured I would use a lot. 1/2" straight, the rabbeting bit, and I ended up with an extra cove bit. These happen to have different bearings so I have two rabbeting bits with 3/8" and 1/2" bearings, as well as the cove bits. They have come in handy on a couple of occasions.

Looking at the Woodcraft website, they seem to have scrambled them again. I think they do that as supplies of certain profiles become more popular. On they other hand, I bought these several years ago, and I may have confused them from year to year. But those are all of them that I have.

Doc

[Glen Butler]

Upcut spiral can tend to fray the upward corners of the cut, but a good bit will minimize this and allow you to easily cut the deep groove you require. Downcut bits keep a cleaner cut but don't eject material as well so are best suited for shallow grooves, of maybe little more than 1/4". You can do multiple passes.

[Ed Beers]

Couple more questions,

-what is the difference between downcut and upcut bits in general?

-If I wanted to cut a channel/line 1/2" wide, 15" long, and that goes all the way thruout 3/4" plywood, which router bit do I use?

thank you!

In an upcut, the spirals are like a screw or drill. They pull the chips out but are more likely to splinter the upper edge.

In a down cut, the spiral pushes downward and chip are pushed into the slot. Very little splintering of the upper edge but chip extraction is an issue.

If you are cutting a through slot, chip extraction won't be an issue so you could use either depending on which edge is most important. A straight bit should also work well here.

[J. Z. Guest]

Check out the MLCS starter kits. I got the 15 pc. one and have used a lot of them.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/graphics/set25yr.jpg

Here's a link to it. (http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/set15piece.html)

Other things to note: Don't get too excited about round-over bits. You will eventually need a lot of different sizes of this.

Ditto with straight bits, but a big one (3/4" or so) is very useful for cutting joinery. Aside from the big one, spiral upcut bits are more useful.

The profile bits, buy as needed, except any freebies in the kit you buy. A rabbeting bit is more useful if it comes with multiple bearings.

A chamfering bit is a must. One bit will do all 45° chamfers.

MLCS makes good router bits. I'll use them until they're used-up. When I wear one out, I'll invest in a top-of-the-line Whiteside or Freud bit.

One more note about that kit I recommended above: The box that is included with it is of high quality. It has box joints and a high quality latch. It has foam in the lid, which keeps the bits from rattling in their holes.