Morris taper ream...?

[Larry Marley]

getting a little chewed up inside, not too bad but don't want it to get worse.

I know this has been discussed before.

Where do I go to get a #2 MT ream?

[Bruce Smith]

Larry most business that supply machine shop tooling can no doubt supply you with a #2 morse taper reamer. I know there are a few discount suppliers here on the web but I'm not familiar with with them. Perhaps some of the other turners can supply you with the links.

[Terry Quiram]

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=891-4730&PMPXNO=3904656&PARTPG=INLMK3

[Larry Marley]

thank you.

[Scott Conners]

There was a big discussion a few months ago on here about where to get one for less than Enco and MSC charge. Try searching for "Morse taper finish reamer" on this forum.

[Toney Robertson]

getting a little chewed up inside, not too bad but don't want it to get worse.

I know this has been discussed before.

Where do I go to get a #2 MT ream?

Larry,

No offense intended but how is your MT getting chewed up inside? What is causing the problem?

Toney

[Larry Marley]

Hi Toney,

I saw someone lock the Oneway live center with the pin to seat the cup center into the turning. then pull the pin and go. I used that technique a few times on my 3520 until I managed to spin the spur drive in the taper.
the spur drive was galled up so I tossed the spur drive and replaced it the a steb drive. I can feel the taper is scratched and I don't want it to start damaging my inserts.

[Frank Townend]

Larry there are at least nine (one seller / http://pics.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/s.giftools4cheap (http://myworld.ebay.com/tools4cheap/)) on eBay with a buy it now price of $25.00.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Be very careful when using the Morse taper reamer, so you wont make things worce than they already are.
Then after, use a drawbar to hold your tapers in the PM headstock, the PM surfaces are not Oneway machined surfaces, there are reasons a Oneway does cost more.
I would use a drawbar in any Morse taper application where there is twisting forces on it, just to be safe.

[Jeff Nicol]

Be very careful when using the Morse taper reamer, so you wont make things worce than they already are.
Then after, use a drawbar to hold your tapers in the PM headstock, the PM surfaces are not Oneway machined surfaces, there are reasons a Oneway does cost more.
I would use a drawbar in any Morse taper application where there is twisting forces on it, just to be safe.
Machined is machined I believe? When something goes wrong with a spur drive there is usually something else causing the problem not the machine. Operator error is most always the problem, or just plain bad luck. Just wondering why you are so biased against every thing that is not a " Oneway" product Mr. Van Der Loo? I have the PM and a Jet,Grizzly knock off, and the little Steel City mini. I have not had any trouble with gauling or burrs on any of my headstocks and I turn a lot!

If you don't do the maintainence on a new Jaguar and run it out of oil the engine will still blow up!

Just not very biased, they all work some just look a little better than others.

Just being me,

Jeff

[Larry Marley]

the damage was from a non hardened spur drive that was not seated into the MT being subjected to rotational force. The spindle was clearly the winner in this contest. I can feel light scratches with my finger so, as with all my tools, I want to keep it in new condition. I will use a draw bar to hold a Jacobs chuck in place. (as I would with a Oneway Lathe) there is no need to do this when turning between centers.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Machined is Machined Jeff ??, come on Jeff, I think you know better than that, like steel is steel and wood is wood ???
It is especially with taper surfaces that an accurate ground surface will be much cleaner and holding better than a turned surface, the same with the MT pieces that go in there as well, it is also why some bearings are much better than others, that is just the way it is.
Better material and better more accurate machining does cost more, there are reasons why some machinery is better than others, not the name that makes it, we know very well that the same name made in the far east machinery very often don't stand up as the ones that were made here.
Doesn't mean you can't use the less costly products, sometimes you don't need the best possible product, also means that some times you might need to do things to get around shortcomings, like weight for mass or a drawbar for a more secure holding of a MT.
I could have said General as I know they do some fine machining on their lathes as well, but thought the known quality of the Oneway would be a good comparison.
Going for less costly does often have the "you get what you pay for" result, I guess you know that going into it.
I can't afford a big Oneway lathe either, doesn't mean the machine I have is better than the Oneway, I wish it was.

[Frank Townend]

Larry there are at least nine (one seller / http://pics.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/s.giftools4cheap (http://myworld.ebay.com/tools4cheap/)) on eBay with a buy it now price of $25.00.

I ordered one from this gentleman and it arrived the other day. Made in China, it is a quality tool, well made, packed in an oil-impregnated paper in a handy cardboard sleeve, and carefully prepared to quickly ship to me. [Seller is in New Jersey.]

It has well sharpened edges, checks out perfectly on my micrometer, and has a tap-ready square end.

As with others, I will use it gingerly to ensure a clean Morse taper if my Taper Mate (http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=packard&Product_Code=117902&Category_Code=lathes-acc-tapacc-tapmt) isn't the right tool at the time.

[Jeff Nicol]

Leo, You said " They are not One Way machined surfaces" so I was just stating that you are a little biased toward the One way tools. So like I said the comparible One way to the PM3520B ( Swing and spindle length ) the One way may be a bit better but not $3000 better! If I throw some paint on a canvas and someone pays me $30,000 dollars for it does it make it a Rembrandt? No it proves the person buying it has a lot more money than sense. This is my opinion and I can make a 20" bowl on my 3520B just as nice or better than someone turning on a One way, Stubby, or a Robust lathe, also some guys turn nicer things on cheaper lathes. This just proves that when things go wrong most of the time it is "OPERATOR ERROR"

Use the tool right and it will be nice to you, no matter the cost.........................

No attitude just a vote for equal joy for all lathe owners no matter the cost

Jeff

[Craig Powers]

I've had the spur center spin inside the taper on my 3520B. Was roughing out bowls between center. Not large bowls. Used the reamer, new spur. Seems to be OK. Trying to prevent it from happening again.
Leo, Jeff any suggestions?

[Chris Barnett]

What would a new spindle cost for a 3520B? Should not be a machine killer! Also, Leo, interested in how to use a drawbar on a 3520B...cannot quite see it. Agree with your comments however; the PM is a $3000 (?) machine and the Oneway is, what, $5000...$6000, so hopefully there are some significant differences.

[phil harold]

can some on explain how/what is a draw bar?

[Frank Townend]

At the end of a Morse Taper insert (drive center, buffing system, etc.) that goes into the drive spindle (head stock) or live center (tail stock) there is often a internally threaded section.

To use a draw bar, the first thing you need is a head stock or tail stock that has a through hole. You thread a threaded rod into the Morse Taper insert, pass it through the hole, and use a threaded handle or other such device to keep the insert tightly in the hole.

[Ryan Baker]

A draw bar is not going to stop the center from spinning.

You might try Bill Grumbine's trick of using a two-point drive spur that fits in your chuck jaws instead of on a morse taper for those big blanks. You'll never screw up the taper that way. One wonders about slipping in the chuck jaws, but some of the brands are "guaranteed" to not slip.