Doh, ever have a stopper get stuck on the mandrel?

[Gary Herrmann]

I haven't turned that many bottle stoppers - maybe 4 or 5. I made one a couple days ago out of Kingwood. I'm using Arizona Silhouette's #2 morse taper mandrel and their #469(?) stopper kit.

Turned it, sanded it, applied 3 coats of poly - while on the mandrel. The bushing spins freely, but I'm wondering if poly got onto the shaft and threads of the mandrel. It is stuck fast. And I didn't want to use CA to avoid this very thing. :o

I've tried putting it the fridge to make the metal constrict some. I've tried rapping the mandrel on my work bench to loosen it. I even put some padding on the stopper and whacked it with a mallet (even dented it). Then I tried the padding and a strap wrench. Still no luck. Currently have it sitting in the sun to see if getting it warmer will help.

I'd really rather not buy another mandrel, and would prefer to save the stopper, but that's becoming less important to me now.

Any suggestions?

[Richard Madison]

Gary, have you tried the freezer overnight? Guess the last resort is kingwood shavings to save the mandrel.

[Tony Greenway]

Hey Gary, if you have any bottles around that can be stopped off with a #2 morse taper mandrel, then your problem is solved.;):) I'm just messin' ya.

Try spraying WD40 where you think it is stuck and let set over night, that might help to release the grip.

[Gary Herrmann]

Richard, I was thinking of trying the freezer. If that doesn't work, my wife will be short one bottlestopper...

[Wayne Bitting]

Gary - I've had this happen a few times using stablized woods. My mandrel is 1x8TPI threaded so this may not work for you, but I heated the inside of mine with a small propane torch which made the threaded post expand and when it cooled a few mins later, the topper came right off.

[Benjamin Dahl]

Gary, is there any place on the mandrel where you could get a grip with some vice grips? if so then maybe you can grab the stopper with your other hand and twist it off. I have done that before but don't have your mandrel so it may not be applicable.
Ben

[Mike Lipke]

My mandrel has flats machined on the opposite end from the threads. If yours doesn't, you could grind 2 flats. Then, an old mouse pad and a crescent wrench on the stopper, and a vise on the flats should work.
DAMHIK.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I got mine Gary where you got yours at AS. I took mine and filed a flat on opposite sides like Mike's so a crescent wrench with a synthetic pad to grip the stopper. Works every time.

[JerHall]

pretty much eliminated all my problems. The 1/4" thick mdf washers with a clearance hole and sized to the base of my stopper protect my fixture and tools and provide an index to size the turning the base. They also seem to ease binding. A swipe of the candle each time on the threads helps a lot. The wax doesn't seem to effect the mechanical bond of the titebond glue I use. And one of the little strap wrenches is fast, effective and harmless to my finish. See these:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00945570000P?vName=Tools&cName=HandTools,GeneralPurpose&sName=Adjustable%20Wrenches&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a
I use them all the time for other removal tasks. The three techniques above give me confidence to really tighten up my blank for more successful turning, without fear of being able to remove my masterpiece. Also to make a tight fitting hole without any worries. Some softer woods benefit from a smaller hole by a 1/64 or so.

BTW I make my own fixtures so I have enough length to allow for the 1/4" washer. Also the 3/8" threaded rod is adjustable in protrusion, or I just make them longer and use washers to adjust the length of the business end.