Ever seen this saw?

[Phil Phelps]

Not exactly a woodworking saw, although it will cut some thin wood. This is a Cutawl. Different blades allow you to cut many thin materials. It's all free hand cuttng. I use it for contour cutting similar to the puzzle. The only real drawback is when they improve the saw, some parts don't work on the new ones. I have four, (one from the 30's) and two work. About $750. (Found it in a pawn shop and whittled him down to $125 from $350.) Thought you might like to see something different.

[Dave Arbuckle]

Does it use a rotary blade, Phil, like (please forgive the comparison) a RotoZip?

The work sure looks cool.

Dave

[Lee Schierer]

I sold it to some pawn shop guy in Dallas for $10......;)



Do you trade horses too?

Okay, how does it work?

[Phil Phelps]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Dave Arbuckle
[B]Does it use a rotary blade, Phil, like (please forgive the comparison) a RotoZip?

The work sure looks cool.

Sorry, Dave.
I should have said so. It is reciprocal. Here are a few blades it uses. You can adjust the depth, also. 1/8" - 3/4" Quite handy for plunge cutting. I trim a lot of mounted images for color labs.

[Dave Arbuckle]

Sonofagun.

So, is this kind of a precise control jigsaw? I surely don't think I could make that puzzle with my jigsaw.

Dave

[Lee Schierer]

I take it that the blade reciprocates up & down. DOes it cut on the flat table or do you smoe how have to work hanging over and edge of the table?

[Phil Phelps]

Originally posted by Lee Schierer
I take it that the blade reciprocates up & down. DOes it cut on the flat table or do you smoe how have to work hanging over and edge of the table?

It has a smooth, stainless bed and lies flat on the works surface you are cutting. The blade turret goes 360, cutting in any direction. It has a lock for straight cutting, but it is worthless to me. It has low and high speeds and, two work lights, opposite the blade. Complicated machine that requires constant oiling and mantenance. I place all work on foam for two resasons. One; the blade passes through the work and, two; it cuts down on the vibration. It cuts like turning the wheel of a car. You pull it and guide it with your thumbs. Coming out of a curve, you pull and the wheel straightens up. Takes a lot of practice. Why I ever learned, beats me. At nineteen, it was a challenge. Man, kids are dumb.

[Gary]

This saw used to be very popular in shops that built scenery for theatres, particularly in parts of Europe. It was used a lot on things like the old 'upson board' (a very dense cardboard-like product). I've never used one, but always thought it was a unique and interesting tool.

Gary

[Phil Phelps]

Originally posted by Gary
This saw used to be very popular in shops that built scenery for theatres, particularly in parts of Europe. It was used a lot on things like the old 'upson board' (a very dense cardboard-like product). I've never used one, but always thought it was a unique and interesting tool.

Gary
We used to use Upson by the car load. Use to cut out letters for Sears.

[Matthew Curley]

They were really popular in scene shops in America also... The propmaster's best friend. One of my old (in all senses of the word old) theatre design instructors had one, but he wouldn't let the students use it... oh well...

[Gary]

http://www.intermatic.com/hr/cohist6.jpg

1922

[Todd Burch]

Hey Phil - Let's go back to that puzzle...

Did the bank get those printed and you are cutting them into puzzle pieces? What type of material? How much tearout on bottom (I saw the tooth pattern pushes down in the picture of the blades that you posted.) How are you adhering the puzzle pattern to the print without screwing it up?

Inquiring minds....


Thanks, Todd.

[Bob Oswin]

I have one of these in myshop.
We used it for scrolling out steel rule die backer boards and
for making standees ( cutouts of enlarged pictures) in a graphic art business I used to own.
The saw is heavy, and must be run on a good table.
On the plus side, it will cut almost to a hair both on the X-Y as well as the Z axis.

If you have the patience to learn the saw it is great tool.

Bob

[Phil Phelps]

For Gary. That relic is older than any of mine. What a great antique.

Todd. I had a little trouble with that print because of the clear laminate they used. The saw pulled the laminate loose in some places. Most of the cut outs I do are ink jet photos. Then they apply a clear laminate for durability. I had them send me the photo, sans the lam, and I applied a special "tack" paper over it and then cut it out. There is not tear out. Those blades have a chisel edge, and teeth. The substraight is Gatorfoam. A styrene center with a thin coated resin on either side. Lightweight and sturdy. Comes in 1/4" to 2" in white and black colors.