Need advice on workbench base

[Jeff Dege]

I'm just getting started in woodworking, and as my first real project I'm building a workbench, mostly following Asa Christiana's design from the second season of the "Getting Started in Woodworking" online video series: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/getting-started/index.asp

I have the base put together, and I've set a hollow core door on it to test it for plane, and it's not. Either the door is not flat or one of the legs is set too high. I'd lay odds on the latter. It's not a huge amount - about 3/32nd of an inch - but it's a concern.

At this point, I have a number of choices:


I can ignore it, build my top flat, and leave half the top unsupported when I screw it to the base, or
I can ignore it, and warp my top so that it fits the base, or
I can shim the low corner, or
I can trim the high corner.

I am thinking that choice #4 is my best option. Does the forum concur?

If so, what would be the best method? What I have, in each corner, is an upright 4x4 joining two horizontal 2x4s. To shorten a corner, I'd need to trim a very little off the end of the 4x4 and from the top sides of the 2x4s. My first thought is to try using a block plane. The base may not be quite square, but it's absolutely rigid, and it should provide sufficient support for hand planing, even free standing. (If it should prove too light, I can put the bottom shelf in place and put a couple of five-gallon buckets of water on it, and that should keep it from sliding around.).

The only alternative I can think of is to use a hand-held belt sander on it, but that seems like it'd be more likely to go wrong.

What do people think? How would you handle the problem?

[Russ Boyd]

I'm not sure I would worry about 3/32. You could get that much variance in the floor you are using it on. I would definitely check the door for warpage. That's pretty common with hollow core doors, especially if it's been laying around. A lot depends on the top you are intending to use. Shimming would be the easiest option to getting it nearer to perfect. I would use a block or 2 along side the 4x4 for a sturdier support. Good luck, Russ

[Jeff Dege]

The door fits on the base in four orientations, and it shows the same variance in all four.

I think it's the base. Still, you may be right. If the base has enough flex in it to handle a 3/32" variance, it would conform to a flat top without problems. I'll check.

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OK I checked. I built the base with levelers, because I'm putting this in a basement with a very unlevel floor. When I crank up the leveler on the low leg, it raises the corner so that the base matches the door evenly all around. Of course, that leaves another leg short of the floor, but it does mean that the base has enough flex in it to adapt to a flat top.

I'm going to assume that adjustment is not necessary.