Delta table saw blade question

[Jose Alberto]

Hi guys,
just got a new contractor table saw (still setting it up) and it came w/ a Delta 36 ATB 15 degree hook angle blade (dont see a part #).
I will be mostly cutting veneer plywood and also ripping some 3/4"-5/4" hardwood.

Normally manuf. include the cheapest they can, so I was wondering whether these blades are any good or if I should be looking to upgrade?

Thanks!

[Chris Konikowski]

You should be looking to upgrade. Look at the Freud Fusion for a great all around blade. The Forest WWII is a good blade also and was (might still be) on sale at amazon for a great price.

For the absolute best, you want a crosscutting blade and ripping blade. If you get really serious into this, get dedicated blades...

[scott spencer]

A similar Delta blade came with my Delta 36-600. It was a pretty poor blade. If 5/4" is about the thickest you'll cut, I'd lean toward either an Infinity 010-060 (http://www.epinions.com/review/Infinity_10_60_Tooth_General_Purpose_Saw_Blade_010 _060_epi/content_422331125380) or a Freud LU88R010 (http://www.epinions.com/review/Freud_60T_Crosscut_Table_Saw_Blade_LU88R010/content_226312687236). These are good 60T blades that are excellent for ply, fine crosscuts, and also rip well on a TS due to having a slightly positive hook. The 010-060 has a Hi-ATB that gives the cleanest possible cuts in ply, veneer, melamine and crosscuts in hardwood. The LU88 rips a bit more efficiently but isn't quite as adept in ply. You can always add a ripping blade later on if you need to rip 2"+ materials.

Note that Delta's Industrial line does include some nice blades, but those aren't always what comes as a stock blade. Leitz used to make their industrial line, but I believe it's now the old DeWalt Series 60 blades reincarnated with a "35" prefix that replaces the old "DW" prefix...ie: DW7657 is now the 35-7657.

[Jose Alberto]

Thank you both, you guys just confirmed my thoughts.

$40-$50 is my budget so the Freud sounds good, down the road i would love to get something like a WWII.

I havent looked, do any of the 2 big boxes carry this Freud model?

[scott spencer]

Thank you both, you guys just confirmed my thoughts.

$40-$50 is my budget so the Freud sounds good, down the road i would love to get something like a WWII.

I havent looked, do any of the 2 big boxes carry this Freud model?

I think you'll find that the LU88 actually makes cleaner cuts than the WWII. :)

[glenn bradley]

I think you'll find that the LU88 actually makes cleaner cuts than the WWII. :)

+1 on that in my experience as well. The WWII is a well made general use blade but doesn't rip or crosscut as well as my blades made for those tasks. Get a good rip and a good x-cut and keep your factory blade for the rough stuff.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Try a Delta 7657, that costs less than $50. If in the first 30 days you aren't happy return it. I keep this blade on my saw most of the time, even though I own a couple of WWII's.

[Prashun Patel]

I'm partial to the Avanti (Freud) combo blades w/ 50teeth. They're good for what yr trying to do.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Jose, I don't know if you have any industrial saw blade suppliers in your area, however they often have better blades for the money than the brands carried at the big box stores.

Dimar, FS Tool etc are manufacturers of industrial blades.

Try an internet or Yellow Pages search in your area.

I personally like having a dedicated rip blade, mine is 24 tooth, and a crosscut blade, I have an 80 tooth blade which works very well for solids crosscut and plywood.

As others have mentioned, keep your original blade for rough work, such as when the kid next door shows up with his prized piece of plywood he salvaged from a ditch somewhere.

Regards, Rod.

Regards, Rod.

[Bob Rufener]

Good advice from the guys. I'd also recommend a good quality 80 tooth blade for cutting plywood. It has made a world of difference for me when I cut veneer stock. Chip out is virtually eliminated with this blade and it makes exceptional cross cuts.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I bought a Delta contractor saw as my first saw, and the blade that it came with, I have no idea what part number it was, was actually a pretty decent blade. It was probably a fluke, but it might not hurt to try that stock blade before you spend the $ on a new one.

-1 on the Freud blade mentioned over the WWII also. Blades seem to be quite different blade to blade, even with identical parts numbers, and I may have had a couple bad Freuds, but I have never owned a bad WWII. That being said, I have a cheap Freud in a sidewinder that works quite well, and I just saw a pretty poor job of grinding on a WWII of a fellow Creekers this weekend, so it probably bepends on the blade a lot, no matter the manufacturer. Just make sure you have a warranty when you buy a high quality blade. Forrest and Freud both do.

[Charles Lent]

Good advice on sawblades above, but there's one more thing that you should do. The most significant upgrade that you can make to your saw for chip free cuts is a zero clearance insert. You might even discover that the blade that came with your saw is good enough for the work that you are doing when it's used in combination with a zero clearance insert.

Charley

[Prashun Patel]

One more thing if it hasn't already been mentioned:

Make yrself a Zero clearance insert. That'll improve the quality of any blade and will improve safety on thinner cuts.

[Lee Schierer]

I'm currently making an entertainment center with a combination of oak veneered plywood and solid oak. Take a look at the Frued LU82M blade for cutting your veneered plywood. It gives chip free cuts in plywood or hard wood cross cuts on a well tuned saw. Rockler sells them for under $40. If you try it you'll not want a WWII believe me.

[Jose Alberto]

Thanks guys for all your input.

I searched the forums for information on ZCIs and I must say I am a bit overwhelmed; I am still digesting all the info I gathered. I will definitly be changing the stock insert. I like the phenolic stuff but thing is expensive!

Again, thank you all for ur thoughts!

[Prashun Patel]

Do you have a router with a flush trimming or pattern bit? You can easily make a ZCI out of 1/2 or 1/4" plywood, mdf, or hardboard. Rough cut it to shape with a jigsaw and then route it flush, using your previous insert as a template (doubleside taped to the blank).