Andy Haney
07-19-2004, 10:59 PM
Maybe I've figured this picture thing out??? :confused:
Sorry for the length, but this is my first GLOAT! :D Wish me luck with the pics. Based on the guidance I’ve found, I may have difficulty with file size. I’ll keep trying until I get it.
The first (111 KB) pic I’m attempting to post is primarily for Chris Padilla, as he seemed to be most emphatic about pictures as proof of the cherry tree. THIS PICTURE MAY NOT BE ATTACHED. All was rough sawn at 4/4 thickness. I thought it was cool that the whole process (bandsaw) only generated a little more than three 5-gallon buckets of sawdust. Start to finish was about 3 hours. The stack is approximately 4 feet wide and 8 feet long (some longer, most a little shorter), and is 12 layers tall. I’m guessing about 300 board feet. The concrete slab used to be home to a friend’s hot tub, since removed and decked over. Couldn’t think of a better flat spot that is shaded/protected...further, his wife said it was O.K. !!!
While I was at it I also scanned some progress photos of my version of the “Norm” router table.
The first router table pic (73.9 KB) shows the bottom back corners cut at a slight angle. There are casters under there so the table can be mobile like a wheelbarrow. The hole for the switch is also visible.
The second router table (66.7 KB) pic (front of cabinet) shows where the wheelbarrow “handles” will slide in and out next to the sides. There are slots cut in those inside pieces so a piece of a dowel can act to stop the handle from coming all the way out. The rest of the openings, except the wide, shallow one at the center of the cabinet (explanation below), are for doors and drawers. I devised this wide, shallow opening after reading several postings about the position of holes to be put in doors so enough air will pass through the box.. This 3/4” tall slot will remain open at the bottom so enough air is taken in to keep the router compartment clean. You may be able to see the 6” wide channel that will be at the extreme bottom of the router compartment.
The third router table pic (46.8 KB) through the top shows where dust/chips are intended to drop and exit to the DC, and the tabletop hole that will capture dust from the fence.
Sure hope this DC concept works! The cumulative size of the openings in the cabinet was determined by the capacity of a 4” DC hose, as my system is limited to that. I’ll keep you posted as I’m able to progress with the router table. With other situations, I haven’t had much WW time this year.
Sorry for the length, but this is my first GLOAT! :D Wish me luck with the pics. Based on the guidance I’ve found, I may have difficulty with file size. I’ll keep trying until I get it.
The first (111 KB) pic I’m attempting to post is primarily for Chris Padilla, as he seemed to be most emphatic about pictures as proof of the cherry tree. THIS PICTURE MAY NOT BE ATTACHED. All was rough sawn at 4/4 thickness. I thought it was cool that the whole process (bandsaw) only generated a little more than three 5-gallon buckets of sawdust. Start to finish was about 3 hours. The stack is approximately 4 feet wide and 8 feet long (some longer, most a little shorter), and is 12 layers tall. I’m guessing about 300 board feet. The concrete slab used to be home to a friend’s hot tub, since removed and decked over. Couldn’t think of a better flat spot that is shaded/protected...further, his wife said it was O.K. !!!
While I was at it I also scanned some progress photos of my version of the “Norm” router table.
The first router table pic (73.9 KB) shows the bottom back corners cut at a slight angle. There are casters under there so the table can be mobile like a wheelbarrow. The hole for the switch is also visible.
The second router table (66.7 KB) pic (front of cabinet) shows where the wheelbarrow “handles” will slide in and out next to the sides. There are slots cut in those inside pieces so a piece of a dowel can act to stop the handle from coming all the way out. The rest of the openings, except the wide, shallow one at the center of the cabinet (explanation below), are for doors and drawers. I devised this wide, shallow opening after reading several postings about the position of holes to be put in doors so enough air will pass through the box.. This 3/4” tall slot will remain open at the bottom so enough air is taken in to keep the router compartment clean. You may be able to see the 6” wide channel that will be at the extreme bottom of the router compartment.
The third router table pic (46.8 KB) through the top shows where dust/chips are intended to drop and exit to the DC, and the tabletop hole that will capture dust from the fence.
Sure hope this DC concept works! The cumulative size of the openings in the cabinet was determined by the capacity of a 4” DC hose, as my system is limited to that. I’ll keep you posted as I’m able to progress with the router table. With other situations, I haven’t had much WW time this year.